DaveB

Thanks dmonic1, sounds like R34gtst is the best possibility to investigate. I agree with you that some people appear overly lazy; asking for every little detail to be explained. Personally I just want to try to be as sure as I can before wasting more money on something that doesn't fit. I already have a pair of (as another member put it) '290mm slotted paper-weights' because some advice on here was incorrect; I have had the brakes apart, changed pads, examined calipers etc. and it doesn't help me much until I get some new parts to compare to; and I don't want to just buy something without knowing if it will fit. There aren't too many wreckers near me (that I know of at least) who will oblige in the area of R34 brakes cheaply/in single quantity etc. I would rather skip as much 'backyard engineering' as possible (my backyard engineering usually turns out awful) and buy something that will work because, as I've found, it's actually pretty difficult to improve on stock in a lot of ways (and keep reliability/quality) - you usually need a lot of money, and/or a lot of time & research.

I wonder if the front brake setup of the RSV is different to the RS FourV? How did you mount the callipers - were the R33 calliper bolts different to the stagea ones? Also were the brake lines compatible with the stagea? Cool, but can they crack when you get slots cut?

Well done - you did it! Got the shot of the stagea in front of Ayer's Rock/Uluru (whatever it is called these days). Pity about the front bar damage but I can't really see it in the photos? Probably need to clean some bugs off first Stag's are awesome for road trips - all that space comes in handy, and power is never lacking for overtaking, driving up hills at over 100km/h etc. Fuel is a bit of a problem eh with only a 60lt tank; mine is an RS Four (4WD) and auto and I manage not much better than you - probably 11-12L/100km. However I have a hi-flow turbo and exhaust, tuned to ~180rwkw on bp ultimate.

Are there any braided lines available for stagea?

I don't do track days and I don't think I give the brakes too hard a time... but I can't find any slotted rotors for series 2. The R33 ones recommended in the first post of this thread for series 2 are *not* correct (as several of us have found out). R33 GTST front rotors machined down by 6mm gives the correct diameter and thickness but the wrong offset. If I could find a set of slotted rotors which actually fit then I think I would be content with the stock setup and those.

Excellent

Thanks QWK32, that's the sort of hands-on info I was hoping to find! Yes two large concerns seem to be 1) caliper bolts and 2) brake lines. If I have to compromise either of these with any backyard engineering, I don't think I will attempt a change. I read somewhere here that 33GTST front brakes use 4-pot calipers. But I have seen a pad print of a 33GTST pad and it looked smaller to me than the S2 stagea pad. I'm not very experienced with many road car brakes, but the S2 front pads look like monsters to me. But bigger would be better; I'm only going on my experience of driving a stock stagea with just me in it. With about 40% more power now and more people/luggage etc. in the car I can really feel the difference in the brakes. Plus the front rotors are shuddering pretty bad and I'd like to replace (read: upgrade to at least slotted) rather than machine.

Yeah I noticed a higher-pitch spool sound when I changed my dump pipe; I also had the turbo hiflowed at the same time (gcg) and it sounds different - not worn turbo squeal now, but spool noise. The stainless dump pipe is a fair bit thinner than the big cast jobbie that was there from the factory, and I think it lets out a fair bit more noise. To get all the bolts done up on my turbo (I had the luxury of having the turbo off to begin with) I fitted it off the car, and dropped the turbo and dump pipe in together and just did up the two bolts on the dump pipe -> cat. The studs/nuts they put on the turbo were pretty crap and a couple siezed and one stripped, so I replaced that one with an original bolt anyway.

Exactly the situation I was afraid of... I'm out of max rear factory adjustment and STILL -1.5mm (too much!) at ~395mm. 370 would not be low at all. That is great stuff. Great stuff! Series 1 or 2? Not that it matters really (should fit both?), just wondering. So rear camber problems solved; price not toooo bad... I might have to call Cartorque next week.

Possibly, depends if it clears the firewall and floor-pan (angle of the bends will be somewhat critical here). I suggest that it's much easier fitting-wise, and possibly cheaper, to go for a 1-piece front & dump pipe - 1 pipe from the turbo all the way back to the cat'. Apparrently the JustJap stagea bellmouth fits these days, and if you make sure to tell them series 1 or 2, and find out if you can return it if it doesn't fit, you should be pretty safe.

Ouch indeed. I'm hoping that one of the dealers might have them a bit cheaper than that though.

cheers Richard, I'm interested to see if you can get rid of enough negative camber with the bushes. Could you remind me again, do you have a series 1 or 2? It seems to be the series 2's that show too much negative camber?

Cool thanks, didn't see them. But they're not a bushed type setup are they? And they seem to be fairly close in price to a pair of KTA117/KTA128 (although I haven't verified that yet - waiting for someone to get back to me, hopefully around $200-250 delivered).

Ah, now THAT looks more like it... good spotting But does it fit? Is it the right length etc? Basically need someone to be a guinea pig and try it out They (Whiteline) do call the KTA117 a "Rear upper control arm", and the application listing lists the R33 and R34, so that makes the 117 sound more appropriate for the job... but it doesn't have the bend. So either might work... if the 128 doesn't fit then maybe you could exchange it for the 117. Another member (think it was 'rb') had a bad experience with KTA118 and was told by the suspension shop that there was no bushed-style control arm available from whiteline for stagea rear camber... but it would appear that you've found two good possibilities there.

Interesting, it says it's for R32-R34, but it doesn't have the bend to clear the rear strut. I'd be very interested to know if this fits though, 'cause I'll get a pair. +/- 15mm adjustment should be enough to cure any rear camber problems

Cheers TJ. Is that once of the flat style x-force ones, that looks a little like the stock cat'?

Hi all, Just wondering, of those of you that have fitted a large hi-flow cat' (the round stainless style with 3" flanges and 4" or 5" body), how close does your cat' sit to the ground? My ride height is currently about 395mm centre to guards and I already have too little clearance there for my liking. My cat' is the lowest point on the car. If I go any lower, even 20 or 30mm, I fear I might collect speed humps!

Sorry I haven't found any that aren't "pillow-ball" types. (The problems with pillow-ball types are that they wear quickly and transmit more road noise). If you are willing to put up with this then I guess just searching ebay for 'skyline rear camber arm' or something similar and using a reputable ebay store... that's where I'd start anyway. I have found sets there for ~$150 I think? But I'm not sure I want pillow-ball ones on my heavy wagon... I think they're really just meant for drift 180's and silvias.

yeah looks like the dump pipe is 2.5"?

Well it appears that my problem was the main battery/ignition connector, located in the upper-left-hand corner (when viewed from the front) of the driver's side fuse block (in-car, under the dash). I believe I had left it half-plugged in when I was testing. Have done quite a few k's now without the problem re-appearing. Very glad

Just wanting to confirm (if anyone can...); a direct replacement/upgrade for *series 2 RS Four V* FRONT brakes is: R33 GTST, calipers, *disc rotors* and pads. NOT changing the hub. Is this correct? No rubbing on discs/no spacers needed?

Yep Those numbers are the same as my 2000 S2 auto was when it was dead stock; highway figure is a bit better than mine was.

Well I'll be... the PCV valve does appear to connect to the inlet manifold/plenum!? So when you're boosting, and getting the most blow-by, the pressure on the other side of the PCV valve is your boost pressure which means that it's least capable of doing its job...???

Interesting point about the PCV valve. I was just thinking though that perhaps that is a bit backwards... I could be completely off here (someone please correct me?) but I think the PCV valve connection is to the intake side of the turbo, so the one-way valve is purely to prevent the manifold sucking air in under vacuum? I didn't think it had a connection to the boost side of the turbo? If it does then I don't trust mine either as it doesn't make a perfect one-way seal (but then no PCV valve I've ever played with ever has).

I have heard the same, since it bolts up to a RB30 engine which is at least similar. Hope you can get it sorted asap; I agree with the fantastic looking and not a volvo parts!! Have a good one