DaveB

Think, HOPE I found the problem - main ignition connection on the back of the fuseblock that I must have forgotten to plug in properly the last time I had it out. Last time it cut out I fiddled with it and the ignition came good; so re-plugged properly and hope that's fixed it. Hasn't happened yet but only had a couple of short drives.

lol damn... yeah I'd be hanging out to see my stagea on the road again after so long... I had mine off the road for a few weeks recently and it really sucks (save lots of money in fuel though ) Did you end up getting her back for Christmas?? Hope you did. Have a good one all (11:59, 24/12 )

I honestly have no idea, but does a tune really take 4 hours? If it was my stagea they'd need to refill the tank at least once

I've got a 3" split dump on mine which doesn't have a mounting point for a heat shield. The guy who made it says it doesn't need a heat shield; apparently won't cook paint or melt aircon' drain pipe. I've run like that for a week now and I haven't noticed anything bad so far, just less ticking/heat noise when I turn the engine off which I put down to less cast iron in the system now

Sorry terminal end which is that? The one I prodded which brought ignition back instantly was in upper-left-hand corner when looking at fuse block from the front (it's at the back). Pretty sure its two wires are main battery, and main ignition. White with black stripe I think and white with red strip or something? Since reconnecting it fully I haven't seen the problem again YET but I haven't done much driving. If I get a week of longish trips I'll start to consider that maybe it is fixed... fingers crossed ...oh and HAPPY CHRISTMAS everyone Thanks for the helpful replies all

Cheers - will do that now

Running voltage is ~14.1V (radiator fan off) to ~13.8 (radiator fan on) measured @ battery. Fault existed without the alarm... indicator pickup point is basically on the back of the hazard switch; green/yellow stripe (L/H side) & green/black stripe (R/H side). Think I have ruled indicators out when I tried disconnecting them and it still happened. I bumped the fuse panel tonight in desperation and it cut in and out a few times... maybe I didn't plug something in properly (although I checked and DOUBLE CHECKED)??? That would be damn nice. Something that runs all ignition circuit though...

Well, I changed the ignition barrel again tonight, but it is still doing it bad. Seems to happen after the engine is well and truly warmed up, but I dunno... can't really pin it down. It's like the complete ignition circuit is off. Lights go out when I open the drivers door and everything.

Lol yeah I was just hoping for a little better consumption at cruise. But if I take advantage of the extra power then I have to expect worse consumption... so far consumption is worse But hoping if I go on some long trips it will show improvement. Spend most of my time driving in limp-mode anyway with the transmission stuck in 3rd gear 'cause of my (* ignition circuit problem (cuts out or shorts or something randomly). When/if I ever fix that it might improve.

Mine was about 50 bucks less than that and included fuel pump & FPR install, HOWEVER I removed the ECU myself and posted it off and waited for a few days to get the nistune board installed. So sounds good. $500 tune - are dyno tunes really that expensive?

I had exactly the same experience with C34 re: louder turbo spool. But I agree, increased power & marginally better fuel economy means I'll put up with it

Bugger, I guess this doesn't sound familiar to anyone. Small update: disconnecting the indicator wire connections didn't help. Also now it appears not to be indicator related, as it happens when I'm not indicating. Could it be a bad alternator? If so how does that explain the battery circuit staying on? When it happened last night I kept driving for about 10-15K's without ignition circuit and as I was pulling into the driveway it started running rough and threatening to cut out. This morning it was hard to start; but on the third attempt idle went right back to normal.

that is, they did it within the day, but I was able to book it in within the week.

OH. That sucks... however the "key-in" switch in my ignition barrel is busted (doesn't work), and I have a spare ignition barrel with working key-in switch, perhaps I should change that. I did change ignition barrels with this alarm install because I was installing the alarm as a result of the car being broken into, and they had broken the ignition barrel. Just means I will have to change door locks too, but what the heck if it fixes it.

Thanks Mike. Had that thing out so many times now... been racking my brains but I can't think of where I connected it to the ignition. For the ignition connection I used accessories, so that I only have to turn accessories on to stop it re-arming.

Got cat-back done the other day... I fitted a stainless 3" split front/dump with my hi-flow turbo and 5" body 3" flanged hi-flow cat' myself, and it wouldn't *quite* line up with the stock cat-back (flange angled a little too low on the cat) but with a bunch of gaskets, one bolt, and some forcing I was able to make it hold just enough for a risky drive to the exhaust shop... Exhaust Technologies was the only place I could get it done in time; they did it within the week full 3" mandrel-bent mild system with stainless magnaflow ovals mid and rear. Sounds bloody drony, and a bit loud perhaps... but bloody awesome Will post pics/video. System doesn't hang too low ('cept for the cat'), and the stainless twin tips they installed to match the originals really look awesome - long, so that you can't see the muffler from the rear. Clever that.

Hi all, Just thought I'd post this here as well. The original thread is here: http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/in...t&p=4331234 Basically, I've done a bit of work to the car lately, including an alarm install and turbo replacement & tune. After finally getting it back on the road, I have a problem where after driving for a short while the whole ignition circuit just drops out, meaning I lose indicators, dash guages (speedo/taco), combination meter, etc. etc. but the _engine keeps running_ (?!) Battery-powered stuff like the lights, brake lights, and the accessories like the radio keep going too. After parking the car with ignition off for maybe 10 minutes it resets. Damn, damn, DAMN annoying... I have spent so long wiring this car I can't describe... I've been pulling the interior apart more times than I care to count, most recently last night, when I was up tracing a short in the parking light circuit until 3am so that I could drive to work today (I have barely been able to drive the car on its new tune, and it has new turbo and over 180rwkw... ) So if anyone has any clues please post them up here or in the original thread... or feel free to PM...

Great stuff... sounds like it was pretty straight-forward for you then? What type of dump did you install?

Hi all, This is really a last-ditch effort but I hope that someone might just fluke the cause here... I recently installed an alarm/immobiliser in my S2 stagea and I have this weird problem now that sometimes while I'm driving, I go to indicate by just moving the indicator stalk half-way (to manually hold indicators on) and everything on the ignition circuit suddenly cuts out, except the engine keeps running (!) and the transmission goes into limp mode (locks in 3rd gear - !!!). This has got me completely baffled. The radio and accessories keep working. I lose everything non-battery and non-accessories though; power windows, guages, indicators (but not hazards). The only way to bring these things back is to park the car with the ignition off for about 10 minutes and it "resets". I think it must be a thermal fuse in the engine bay, and I suspect the connections I made from the immobiliser to the indicators (although they work fine with and without hazards), but I just don't know why it doesn't happen when I indicate normally? Perhaps I need to add diodes to my indicator wire connections? I made these at the back of the hazard switch by the way; I found one wire worked all the indicators on one side and another wire that worked all the indicators on the other, and used them to connect to the two indicator outputs on the alarm. Thanks if you can help!!! Please ask for more info' if needed... DaveB

I recommend getting it done professionally anyway unless you have at least a week to spare (just in case)... but as for the insurance companies it seems to be company specific. I contacted mine (Shannons) and they told me as long as they could see it working they didn't care if it had a certificate or not. Others may be different (and may give you a reduction of your premium for having a security system fitted too )

Just did a split-dump install on my series 2. I found it easiest to unbolt the dump pipe flange at the cat' and remove the turbo and dump as one unit... but that was because I was changing the turbo at the same time It was then pretty easy to bolt the dump to the turbo out of the car, and carefully re-insert the turbo & dump assembly from the engine bay. Cat ended up angled down ever so SLIGHTLY and wouldn't quite mate with the first flange on the cat-back exhaust (at least not without putting more force on the dump to keep it straight than I was comfortable with). So I had an exhaust place make up a mild 3" cat-back system with mandrel bends and magnaflow oval mufflers Very nice but very drony... loudest at 2k then it gets quieter???!

Whoa

Lol! Yeah looks like it... I wasn't expecting to pick it up until Monday, unless "things went well and they got time to finish it Saturday" (do they normally work Saturdays?). Ah... now I get it... there was a silver or white series 1 at the back of the shop and they were running it when I picked mine up... sounded smooth as but there was lots of smoke around the place. Sorry to hear about the oil problems. Similar issues gave me a lot of grief when installing my hi-flow. I hope it hasn't done in the seals on your turbo? There looked to be two guys working on it though, and this was at about 2:30 in the afternoon... Awesome, thanks kiwi will let you know when I have the iebc installed. Planning on getting another tune done when I do to fix timing, 'cause I am really worried about pinging and also running lean if I increase boost too much up high. I don't even have a boost guage ( ) so I might try to get one of those as well. But just how/where to mount it... Stupid of me not to get the tune done with the solenoid bypassed I know. But I was really short on time what with the alarm install, work, exhaust, fuel pump & fpr, and the tune date being fixed... and I didn't want to leave the solenoid in 100% duty cycle/always on mode, so I just returned the wiring to stock in readiness for the iebc (I'll splice it at the ECU and run stock harness connections).

Thanks Chris. Appears that it's ok as long as you immobilise the switched side of the relay; ie. not the coil connections. That adds impedance to the connections that the ECU sees and messes with it. PS Finally got my immobiliser/alarm system working, with window lift kit and battery backup siren, gps & sms integration etc. etc. It's a really awesome system, and if it all keeps working, it should do fine. And at under $350 in parts including delivery (not counting the GPS module) it was a bargain. However... the 40+ hours of my time... were not a bargain. If I ever have to do another one of these, I am getting a professional to do it, and if it's a 'messy' job I'll just try to tidy it up afterwards, rather than trying to keep it all tidy from the beginning. It's a lot of work. I just finished replacing the insides of my stagea AGAIN after having them out for the last 12 hours chasing a short in my parking light circuit. Not fun.

update - yep, it works... 180-something rwkw so far (I don't have the dyno graph yet, will get hold of it soon). That's with fuel pump (gss-342) and fuel pressure regulator. No boost controller yet (!) - just running the stock boost control (two-stage), which is resulting in max. boost of about 14psi held pretty well up high. Tuner said that mid-range power is suffering a bit due to lack of good boost control, but I reckon that even still, low end is much better - I can cruise at 1,500 rev's at 60 on some false flats now. Yet to see if fuel consumption is any better. Can't wait to get boost controller installed (jaycar iebc) and get more booost down low. Don't know if I can get enough fuel to get more power up high. Stock SMIC will soon max out too I guess. Perhaps some 20kw or so is being soaked up by the auto trans too. Just a mention on the gcg hi-flows... great turbo, but (without programmable boost control at least) response feels a bit slower than stock; flooring it in 1st it still takes a bit to really get going. I guess this is to be expected though since the stock turbo was so light (ceramic) and easy to spool; hopefully a boost controller will help sort this out a bit. Another note about these hi-flows is that the internal wastegate appears to be at its limit; boost is at least 14psi up high and I know of at least one other forum member with 'boost creep' issues more severe than 15psi (17 I think) who has tried having the wastegate hole enlarged to help with this problem.