DaveB

ah lol re: nistune... my exhaust and hi-flow is done, getting nistune board tuned tomorrow so I will know if it *really* works... has been driving fine so far though... unfortunately didn't get time to install fuel pump, fpr or iebc Will be asking the workshop if they have time to do any of those

Just a note, the ECU does not seem to like it when you interrupt its main power (not battery power, the relay in the wiring diagram marked "engine control/ignition coil"). Strange since nothing should be happening until ignition is active anyway. Car wouldn't start (well at least it was immobilised )

cool. this was with about 110,000 K's on it too, so not bad I guess. Hoping for closer to 200 after next tune though.

Ah so that's what your post in the ECU thread was about... awesome. 1400cc more fuel... not bad. Btw I had my S2 tuned at a local place here in Adelaide (Boostworx) as part of my 100,000K service and it was completely stock... I achieved 130.9rwkw which I thought wasn't bad for a stock S2. Should translate to 110-115awkw? Shaun said the major limiting factor was the stock exhaust (that's stock dump, stock engine pipe, stock compliance cats (x2, 1 is reeeeaaally tiny) and stock cat-back). Stock boost, etc etc

Cool - two pearl stageas in the one day Mine will only be there if I can get my exhaust sorted before next Friday... I sure hope AAA Exhausts or some place like that doesn't run a 2 week booking schedule... btw what do you want two manifold-mounted 700cc injectors for? You gonna run NOS or something???

Just nit-picking... but isn't the voltage drop of a silicon junction .6V not .3V? Unless it's perhaps (rarer) germanium diodes you're using? To get .6V one (silicon) diode should suffice?

Awesome, do you think that'll make it to Boostworx in time for my tune on Friday?

The emblems just unclip on series 2. I just pulled mine off, can't tell it was there.

Thanks yeah, I will be going for some of these. I just hate it when I can still crank the motor though, 'cause I know that lots of times I am going to try to start the car and it's going to catch me out - ie. crank for a bit before I work out what's going on. It just wears out the ring gear and the starter motor.

Thanks Chris. According to the fusebox in the engine bay though there isn't a starter relay? (the labels are in english). I also removed my tiptronic gearstick surround but I can't find anything there; when I unplug the main harness connector attached to the gearstick surround it still starts?!?! I guess it must be under the car? Seriously the only way that I seem to be able to stop this thing starting, is to disconnect the solenoid start wire, which is pretty obvious to a thief (who can just short the starter anyway I suppose).

Hi all, Looking for the starter relay on a Stagea (series 2 C34) or even an R34 or R33 should be close enough. I've pulled every relay in the car and the dang thing still cranks... the starter circuit is annoyingly separate from the ignition circuit. Car is auto btw; also if someone has the location of the park/detent switch that would be fabulous also; I can't find that either and thus have no way of interrupting the starter motor cranking (want to immobilise it, but stupidly the ignition barrel circuit is on the switch side of the crank relay?!?! this means 30+ amps which is more than my immobiliser is capable of) If someone prefers to PM me this info instead that's also fine... thanks DaveB

wtF is that plastic brace doing there??? I have a 2000 model series 2 and my brace is metal, and removable (screwed in with 2 screws either side). Looks identical. I'd cut that brace out all together at each end. hahahaha! classic Yeah unfortunately filters for C34 are paper and in my case did not respond well to being soaked to clean; after 10 minutes with a toothbrush trying to get the tar out (mine were 'smokers filters') I gave up and ordered a new one of jap auctions. They fit and work fine, and look original. But white

Thanks guys. I have stock injectors, so the FPR is for when I get my dyno tune (installing gcg high-flow neo turbo, split front/dump, high-flow cat and soon cat-back exhaust, so I hope to be ready to push the injectors past the ~85% duty cycle which is considered "safe"). I hadn't considered flow though. I'm not up with the pressure / flow stuff, but if the pressure is set the same, will the flow be equal? I have just read the instructions for installing the pump and it says to "road test" the car after installing the pump, so I guess it expects factory FPR will suit. discopotato03 - by: ...do you mean that the FPR comes set at a certain pressure? Do you know what it is, or is it safer to set it up with a fuel pressure guage (which, if I was smart, I would just try to borrow from somewhere and set the new FPR up to the factory pressure, and save on the cost of FPR installation as well). I guess the main reason we all do this FPR replacement is of course it's a ~$150 option to increase injector flow by like 10-20%(?) as opposed to the $750 new injectors option to increase flow by 50-100%+. ie. cheaper. And I don't want/need more than the factory injector capacity really (ie. it's not the only limiting factor) - somewhere around 230-240kW - because not much above that I have read of stageas breaking half-shafts, and by about 250-300rwkw the flex plate in the auto is a weak link.

Done

That's right - the receiver unit for the key remote. Took me a while to trace that... there are at least 2 relays run from it. Had to go all the way back there to get all *four* doors locking; again the driver's door lock is treated differently! The convenient door locking switch in the driver's door only locks the other 3 doors.

Ohhhhh, nice. Brilliant. R34GTR rims and all. That's awesome. Pity boot glass has been replaced with non-UV cut glass. Pity is series 1. But it's got an RB26 and a strong driveline... bring on the 300+AWKW

Hmm, tomorrow I might just get up the enthusiasm to remove my handiwork and install it in the drivers door instead. It'll be a heck of a lot easier that way and should only take half an hour.

Thanks Chris, you are right of course, all sorted. I was having difficulty making the motor work, but when I got bold and cut the up wire, with the switch still connected to the rest of the connections, the window could be driven up simply by connecting the motor side to 12V. Simple Took a little while to trace the wires, I found that the workshop manual for the R34 is probably 95% accurate. Too true about the driver's window - the driver's connection for the central locking and power window is different. For instance I could find no way of connecting to the driver's power window externally to the door, the only place the wire is accessible is at the back of the controls in the driver's door. Auto-up module I think is built into the switch assembly. My suggestion to anyone installing a window lift kit in a stagea is to install it in the driver's door. All the connections are there, including battery, accessories and ground. I wish I had've installed mine there, then the driver's window would wind up automatically too Oh well, 3 out of 4 is still pretty cool I guess... drivers should be more responsible, right? Don't wanna get too lazy

ahhhh, thanks Chris. Yeah that makes perfect sense. Only issue I think I will have, is that the switches switch two groups of wires: +12V to one side of the motor, and I think it grounds the other side of the motor. They don't seem to run if I just give them 12V?

I calculate that my R33 GTR rims (17 x 9) site 152.3 mm out, which is pretty much the edge of the guards. I calculate that your rims (18 x 8 - the 18 doesn't matter, only the width I'm considering here) will sit about 153.6 mm out So on paper I'd say yes, they'll definitely go at the front... rear may be marginal because they're so close to the body, the lip inside the fender might interfere with your tyres a bit I'm not sure. Don't take my word for it though I'm going completely on what I calculated "on paper". Anyone else? Mike?

Hi, I've searched for a post about this topic but I can't find a straight answer. I have a (hopefully) fairly straightforward question; I have a stock RB25DET NEO (S2 stagea) with stock fuel pump and FPR. Is it possible to upgrade the in-tank pump with a walbro GSS-342 (255L/hr) pump and keep the stock fuel pressure regulator? Or will it need adjustment to maintain the stock pressure? I got a tomei adjustable FPR at the same time as the pump, but without a fuel pressure guage, I don't know what the base fuel pressure will be so I'm planning on swapping the pump myself before my tuning day, to save install cost, and just get them to install the adjustable FPR. Would this work?

Hey guys, interesting coincidence, I'm installing a Mongoose system with the MPW4000 window lift controller at the moment... I don't suppose anybody knows anything about this device, all the diagram has for the window outputs are 4 pairs of wires, each pair contains "window motor" and "window switch"? A little vague I know but I can understand the rest of the diagram and have it hooked up and working with the alarm; I can make the motor connection pull high or low when I lock the doors, but what does "switch" do? My power windows (stagea s2, should be same as R34 skyline) appear to need one motor connection to be pulled high, and the other low to drive. Anyone actually wired this unit up to a skyline? What does "window switch" wire do?

It sounds like a fault warning; I think the seatbelts have pre-tensioners. I'm not sure where the fault would show up though? Perhaps in the ECU or as mentioned SRS system (although that has its own fault warning light). Checked the connections to the seatbelt under the seat?

Thanks Mike - that's actually the place I called a while ago about possibly getting a custom cat-back system made up. I'm going to go see them about it when I have the car back on the road.

argh wtf is wrong with me... 75 I meant 75!!! lol thanks