DaveB

Guys are you confusing the bell-mouth (non split) with the split pipes here? I contacted JJR and they told me the splits have issues, need modification to fit properly, but that the bellmouth pipes (non-split) fit stagea without modification.

x2 - also interested in whether they fit S2 stagea.

An update on the Nistune boards for S2 stagea... I received this e-mail last Thursday: so should soon know if it at least runs the engine... I picked up the high-flow turbo last Friday, and unfortunately I can't fit it until I get the ECU back so that I can run the engine without the turbo for 15 seconds at idle to do an "oil flow test", which Bill at ATS wants me to do. But if the ECU runs the engine off the Nistune board, then I should be all set - that means the tune can be modified with Nistune software! So I'll simply book it in to Boostworx or somewhere else that handles the Nistune stuff and get a complete tune. This is the perfect solution for me because a) it's about half the cost of piggy-backs in terms of hardware, b) I don't have to wire anything into the ECU loom (also save money there if I got it done professionally) c) it's comparable to a complete computer change (ie. better tune than piggy-backs) only drawback is the difficulty (and, potentially, price) of re-tuning... will keep you posted.

These rims now SOLD

Not at this stage; I'm getting the turbo hi-flowed (GCG) so I'll get it tuned on a dyno; I don't really have any desire to play with it any more than setting up my IEBC.

Will do. This certainly looks like the best possible tuning combination for auto stagea owners (and possibly manuals too? value-wise anyway...) as I see it, it all just depends on: a) how much more can be added to the fuel map and b) cost to get it tuned! anyway Matt will express-post it back when he's done, so I should have the unit back by next weekend (fingers crossed) to see if it actually *runs*... that would be a good start. DaveB

Rims still for sale. Yes I'm in Adelaide - probably 20 minutes away from you, just head south and up Flagstaff Hill road PM sent...

Well, if anyone's wondering whether series 2 stageas are compatible with the Nistune conversion (series 1's are NOT - we've already established that), I sent my board off to Matt at Nistune yesterday. He is charging $305 to supply AND FIT the Nistune board (type 4) and I should soon know whether it is compatible with the stagea (he thinks it is). I will post back the results.

PM chef_stagea, he had both!

Thanks Richard, I hope you were able to return/exchange the arms... I am very interested to know which arms will fit stagea as it seems a lot of us series 2 folk are having to make a lot more camber adjustment than the whiteline camber kits can provide, and I don't know of any non-pillow-ball/cheap camber arms which will do it. edit: what rear shocks are you running?

Wow, sorry to hear you had a much harder time getting your manifold off then I just did. Seems that this little procedure is much harder to perform on an R33 engine than an R34? Maybe it's just because of K's/age; how many K's had yours done? Mine was 110,000... I bought new exhaust manifold gasket, studs and conical-locking nuts from Nissan and my total was ~$192; I know that turbo-manifold gasket is around $40-ish though, and a dump gasket is the same. The turbo water and oil lines SUCK, in my opinion... I'm going to do as suggested and take the solid oil line to pirtek and get a braided hose made, hopefully around $60-ish, to make things a bit easier to put back together. Hopefully I won't have to use banjos with it still, because they also suck (fiddly copper washers to get on). The temptation is there to replace so many things while it's apart... just think... all that work to get back here again to change turbo, gasket, manifold, dump, EGO sensor etc. etc.

Perhaps try PM'ing the seller (gtr_z)?

The old hidden switch is a goodie... I like the sound also of those new "proximity card lock" things like Mercs etc. use... stays in your wallet, and automatically unlocks the vehicle when you're within a few feet. If it was combined with a well-installed remote alarm/immobiliser, at least then a thief would have to have your keys AND your wallet... and if you lost both of them... well that would be a bad day.

No worries, car still off the road for turbo work anyway...

lol yeah the ultimate solution

Damn! so easy

Wow, that sounds like awesome value... just need to find a tuner around here that can tune it. I am *hoping* Boostworx can do it... then just have to solve a 2-wheel dyno problem Awesome Tangles... I just had a thought... obviously ATTESA is unaffected by all this ECU reprogramming?

True, could do that. Maybe I'm just lazy... but what if a valve is open? Won't stuff goes straight into the cylinder, out of reach of my (pathetic) vacuum cleaner?

That's what I used to clean just inside the ports... but I was too worried about debris/bits of metal bristles getting in the cylinders to go any deeper

Ah, yes that would seem to make sense; ie. just another non-stagea community's way of distinguishing between series 1 and series 2 (never mind that they don't even have the same ENGINE lol).

Cool, is that like the e-manage ultimate? Here we go... here's a pic of a series 2 auto stagea ECU: The text on it reads: NISSAN TJ 23470 0V812 A56-K41 L14 0706 UNISIA JECS CORPORATION JAPAN So sounds like a JECS ecu? ie. Nistune type 4 board, "WC34 Stagea [JECS ECU only] (RB25DET)" ? ~$440AU ...that would be awesome if it allowed a laptop-tunable ECU. However I think 2 x "ROMulator"s would be needed and they are a bit more expensive (but only the tuner needs those)

Hell yeah - reading the comments from Tangles has me convinced! Piggy-backs are a pretty compromised tune it seems, even if you can find an SITC... and probably not much cheaper than $600 all up. I wonder how much a full replacement board costs? If one of these can be made to fit for reasonable money... awesome. Tangles I was especially glad to read that it hadn't stuffed the changes in your auto; that would seem to make this the "holy grail" of tunes for auto stagea owners (ie. 95% of us?!?); along with the auto shift logic do you get to keep ALL the other factory stuff the computer does, like A/C compressor cut at startup/high revs etc etc?

Not knowing which valves are open or closed means not knowing which cylinders the stuff will fall straight into; I had a bit of a go with the small brass-bristled brush which is why you can see some of it chipped away, but I didn't want to go too far in over the valves. I'm just hoping that using good fuel (ie. Ultimate or VPower) will keep it clean...

Here we are... genuine Nissan nuts (conical type locking): ...and the genuine Nissan studs & hi-temp anti-sieze/bind compound I used on the studs: Nuts cost me ~$21 for a dozen () Studs cost me ~$50 for a dozen ( ) so I was had a little there... but they were just down the road and it was convenience factor Now studs are done btw, spoke to the turbo guy and the first thing he recommended was to change out all old studs if possible and re-fit exhaust manifold after checking for cracks; which apparently are usually small and white and often seen running through the pale blue/grey sections of the exhaust manifold (which are where it has become really hot). You can see a few of these blueish-grey areas here: ...fairly obvious where they are eh Good luck all PS Gee u get some crud building up in the exhaust ports...

Aren't R34 ECU's JECS? Therefore, perhaps S2 Stageas are... I know JECS is printed on my ABS controller anyway lol