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DaveB

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Everything posted by DaveB

  1. DaveB
    I just checked my standard ones, and I can't detect a bend. I'm still not sure about the hole spacing though.
  2. DaveB
    Good point. Yes, in that picture of the Driftworks rods I can definitely see a bend. I don't have any to be able to measure the distance between the holes though. That pricelist you posted shows the different models pretty clearly, cheers for that. Pics of the two would be awesome. I'm assuming that GTR is the same as 4WD stagea, same as Bob. Is your R33 GTR or GTST?
  3. DaveB
    Can somebody please tell me *definitively* (ie. with evidence) what the difference is, if any, between 2WD and 4WD adjustable tension rods? I have had some sellers tell me that these rods will fit 4WD: http://justjap.com/hardrace-heavy-duty-rubber-bushed-adjustable-tension-rods-nissan-s14-s15-r33-r34-2wd.html When I look elsewhere, the only ones I can find advertised for 4WD are all pillow-ball, and I want bushes. I can't imagine what the difference would be, having seen both the 2WD and 4WD factory original versions, but I suspect there might be a bend in the 4WD versions which isn't present in the 2WD versions... can anybody confirm one way or the other? cheers DaveB
  4. DaveB
    Hi all, Does anybody know whether the 260RS/S1 and series 2 C34 share the same interior door handles? My driver's door handle is broken (just the plastic surround broke off) and I can't find any series 2 ones for sale on the Yahoo Japan auctions, but there are a couple of sets of series 1 260RS going cheap(ish). cheers DaveB
  5. DaveB
    I have had the exact same problem before. Two solutions which come to mind are 1) replacing your xanavi unit (what I did) and 2) replacing your xanavi unit with the single DIN standard aircon controller (like the one in the R34). You need an adapter cable for this though, which costs about $100 on yahoo japan auctions.
  6. DaveB
    Are you looking at the harness socket on the headlight assembly, or on the back of the D2R plug itself? Two of the wires on the socket attached to the headlight assembly go to the auto-levelling motor. I just had a look around, and found this pic' of a (similarly butchered, by the sounds of it) "complied" stagea headlight - the bottom arrow points to a triangular socket which has been filled with putty; that's the height-adjustment motor, if memory serves. Looking at the ballast at the top though, I see several wires... hmm. There should be some posts on these forums to help you out though. The one I got the picture from for instance is http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/topic/404134-xenon-replacements/
  7. DaveB
    Sorry not Sydney, but I have had some made in SA so they should have them on the shelf. You could look into getting some posted. They cost $400 or $500 from memory, PM me if you'd like me to look back into my file...
  8. DaveB
    Sorry that I can't offer anything useful, other than to say what you probably already know: my auto does that, and I assume it's normal for the auto ECU. If you rev it in neutral even, after the revs fall, they will "blip" back up to about 1,500-2,000 rpm for an instant. I think it's part of the auto ECU setup. Seems to me that this is more than just tune - that there are extra "smarts" in the auto ECUs which are responsible for this.
  9. DaveB
    Hi all, Plugged my ecutalk device into the consult port on the C34 today to try to diagnose a 4WD light, and although the display lit up, the only message I got was "unable to connect, going to main menu". Does anybody know what this issue is caused by, or how to get in touch with Peter? cheers DaveB
  10. DaveB
    Hmm, the C34's had a very similar issue with the Xanavi display. The only way to fix that I know of was to replace the unit. Perhaps check the Yahoo auctions for the price of a second-hand display? ie. something like this maybe? (see here for translation).
  11. DaveB
    lol! HHO? This has to be a scam!
  12. DaveB
    Found
  13. DaveB
    Belated FYI - injectors sold.
  14. DaveB
    Old thread, just letting people know that I eventually found a new ballast cheers. I will be back looking for another one when the next one goes I guess.
  15. DaveB
    I was blaming my front shocks for a creaking/squeeking noise in the front of my series 2 C34 (~50,000km-old Bilsteins), but now I am thinking maybe it's sway bar links. Upper caster bushes have been replaced 3 x in the last 18 months or so, so I'm hoping it's not them (currently Super Roo brand). Does sway bar links sound like a reasonable place to start?
  16. DaveB
    From personal experience, I was lucky enough to get all my studs out by using penetrating oil and patience and was lucky enough not to break them. The biggest pain for me is removing the turbo itself - gotta drain all coolant and oil, and difficult to position 3 x hard lines all in one go without over-stressing anything... plus everything has to have 2 x copper washers (new ones) when it all goes back together... argh.
  17. DaveB
    Ah, right. That's a deal-breaker. Going to have to book it in then. Thanks Krzysztof.
  18. DaveB
    Thanks guys. Ended up ordering 2 x R33GTR front bearings from justjap, since they're only ~$28 more expensive then getting NTN ones from ebay. Do they need to be pressed on/off? PS The ebay ones are obviously for a series 1. The year is just off by 6 months. I contacted the seller and they told me they had a different part in their listings for series 2, but they couldn't supply it.
  19. DaveB
    Hi all, As the title says, I'm looking for the plastic ring that goes around the inside of the driver's door handle. Pic attached If you have one you'll sell please let me know via PM or posting here cheers DaveB
  20. DaveB
    I just discovered that JustJap has the same part listed for all GTRs as well as 4WD stages front wheel bearings - http://justjap.com/store/product.php?productid=19332&cat=&page=1 The justjap part is an "NTN" part, and the eBay one I've been looking at at half the JJ price is a GBC one. Does anybody have any experience/preference either way with these? I assume GBC is "global bearing company", and a quick Google suggests that NTN is Japanese (a plus) but beyond that I don't know if the NTN ones are worth $120-ish each?
  21. DaveB
    Thanks Bob. I think I'm going to try my luck with a GBC bearing set. I'm 90% sure that the GTR part would be the same, but then I think of the issues I had with tie-rod ends...
  22. DaveB
    Hi, Does anybody know whether R33 GTR front wheel bearings will fit series 2 C34? My driver's side bearing is shagged, and the only bearing I can find which is specifically for C34 is worryingly for "96-99" (which is odd since series 1 finished in 98 and series 2 in 2001). Does anyone know if these will fit? http://www.ebay.com.au/itm/GBC-Nissan-Stagea-1996-1999-C34-Single-front-wheel-bearing-/400435809402?pt=AU_Car_Parts_Accessories&hash=item5d3bd58c7a&_uhb=1 If not, I thought I might have more luck with '33 GTR since they're more common (on ebay at least). cheers DaveB
  23. DaveB
    It's a *lot* of soldering... or you can buy the conversion harness off Yahoo Jap. (ie. via import monster) and it's plug-and-play. I can at least verify that the harness works, though it's a bit of messing around to sort out illumination (there are two wires which are not part of the loom which you have to hook up separately).
  24. DaveB
    Cool thanks for the details - is the RB26 different re. Flywheel ring gear / alternator?
  25. DaveB
    Thanks guys, The only thing which concerns me about non-stagea-specific parts is the fittment of the body/distance from the belt and the size and grooving of the pulley - it must be pretty critical that these are the same (M35 is different)? Bob I contacted Russman about his '33 one (the grooves are the same, and the body *looks* the same, so it's a $75+p/h chance...) Thanks for spotting that
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