DaveB

oops, sorry - I thought you said IEBC!?! my bad. I only have IEBC instructions (at this stage...) sorry

Perhaps you should run an ATTESA diagnostic and check what results you get; usually pressure switch (code 77) shows up.

If you still need it tonight I can scan mine then

Hmm where from did you get the reconditioned set? I don't even have a part number for the Bilsteins; plus I heard that the superior suspension ones have custom valving?

I see exactly the same thing; I think the power drops are just because it draws so much current (the attesa pump that it's switching on/off seems to cause a voltage drop as it's turned on). Lights flash dim for a very brief second; have to be watching to notice.

Hi, sorry if this has been asked before but I can't find it... I have a couple of questions re. the whiteline springs as found in the SK suspension kit... - can I just fit the whiteline springs with the standard shocks for now, and what height approx. will this result in? - will I need new spring seats/top hats/dust cover/bumpstop kits etc? Thanks for your help! DaveB

Ah, thanks for clearing that up!

Btw I thought it might be interesting to post up my wheel alignment sheet. The guy who did the wheel alignment wasn't really comfortable with SK's recommended -2mm each side at the rear, because he was worried it would chew the tires out prematurely, so I went with his suggestion of as close as possible to zero front and rear. Nothing I can tell that is different yet, apart from the fact that the steering is still much lighter; the tyres are still coated in too much goo to tell if it is understeering; I will test that later. However by the looks of how things were before this can only be an improvement I have noticed more road noise (tyre noise, like a rubbing sound), but this could be a combination of the larger rims/lower profile tyres and the (very) chunky tread design.

very true... I was just wondering, is offset measured in mm ? What is R33GTR wheel offset - like, 38? So wouldn't the difference of 2mm be outweighed by the difference in rim width of 1/2 inch (~12.5mm)? Or am I way off here... Edit: I may have answered my own question here... thinking about it some more... offset is rim-width dependent; therefore it won't be sticking out as much to begin with (and will possibly not look right)... but I think that it can't protrude *in* too far, because the rim is 1/2 inch narrower than a rim which I know to fit, which has a similar offset... I think???

Ah, I see lol unfortunately not an S just a V... but yeah it's SUV spec atm

Yeah I think you're right; I had the rims powdercoated last week, and discovered they have some awesome pearl/metalflake finishes in powdercoat now. I chose "precious steel pearl", but they accidentally used "precious silver pearl" (which is what they are now). They offered to re-do it for free, but I didn't want anything too dark; they're close to the original colour which is cool but yeah, little too 'seasick smurf' unless viewed in bright sunlight (and it was getting dark when I took those shots). Next to bring it down a bit...

Pics... I am now officially a contender for the most SUV

Thanks; suspension is standard. Not sure if I wanna go that firm; but i'll think about it...

Thanks guys, yeah to me they look freaking huge - not in diameter so much as width! Bare minimum for a stagea I reckon is 9" wide... Sure will Mike, picked up the car this afternoon... need to lower it an inch or two I think(!), it looks a little SUV with this rim & tyre combo. The Maxxis Z1's look pretty 'chunky'. Pics tonight

Thanks guys yeah Mike they're only 17 x 9 (though without tyres make it look like a steamroller ) I did a test fit on the front and it clears the back of the hubs by about half an inch... but apart from that looked all good. I have seen a few with '33GTR rims, and the pic of SK's convinced me... especially since he hadn't done anything to his suspension I don't think at that time. But I read somewhere that he had seen 3 or 4 with 33GTR rims and I thought that some of the early 260RS's or something came out with them...

Just a point on the back seats... I found them dead easy to remove; the bottom of the back seat has 2 x 12mm bolts holding it in, at the bottom at the front, they go through the carpet. One on each end of the seat near the door. Then the back seat u can just fold up or down, shouldn't need to remove it. There is a plastic cable tray running under the rear seat and up and under the back, right in the middle which you should be able to take advantage of , I did

Does anybody know if any stagea chassis came out with R33GTR rims on? I just dropped my S2 RS-Four off to be fitted with them & tyres and the tyre fitter asked if I'd checked them for fittment, said they looked pretty wide lol. I just told him they were a factory wheel

I can say stock S2 does 0-100 in 7.03; repeated 3 times with the same results. I have gotten a ~7.8 with 3 people in it; completely stock, stall launch. PS just had it dynoed at 130.9 RWKW (next time it's going on a 4WD dyno...)

Lol that looks pretty freakin awesome right now... what do you need another one for? PS You can try a couple of places... www.importmonster.com.au www.slidewizeimports.com Both forum sponsors I believe... Also, you can try J-Spec; they can source parts for you and arrange import, and the last time I checked a complete dayz rear bar was going to cost me around $500-550, in my colour, which is pretty good as far as prices for S2 dayz parts go.

thanks

hmmm, cheers. Good to hear they have circlip grooves standard; I'm not after a radical drop. Pity the custom valving is no longer available though.

Well so far I think that my problem is just a loose belt. It only happens when I have let the engine cool down, and if it's not completely cold, it's not as bad (squeak doesn't sound as loud or last as long) It just sounds like a belt slipping... so I got to it and had a look for the belt adjustments. I have found 2 of the 3 belt adjusters... they are 12mm bolt heads and just require a 12mm spanner (ring preferred, but access to the right-hand-side one for the power steering pump belt is a little limited, you may need an open ender). None of them need to be too tight; just until you can 'deflect' the belt using thumb and forefinger about 10mm along its longest run. Here are pics of the adjuster locations for the 2 that I have found: Left side (alternator/cooling fan belt) Right side (power steering pump belt) Centre belt (air compressor); I don't know where the adjustment for this one is (I suspect I'd have to pull the underbody plastic off and crawl underneath) Unfortunately for me, it is the centre belt that feels loose while the others feel damn tight. I am sure it's that one which is causing my problem, but after feeling around everywhere and getting filthy and burnt I haven't been able to find the adjustment yet.

BTW here's a link to the pipe in question on their online shop... http://bosimporting.com.au/index.php?page=...t&Itemid=27

Sorry for the late reply... I asked that question to BOS Importing recently 'cause I'd heard that their split pipes fit without modification, whereas a guy from JJR told me theirs *need* modification (but he said it was minor; cutting and welding involved by the sounds though)... here's the BOS Importing reply: ...so there you go... I'm a little dubious myself about the whole R33/R34 series 1/series 2 thing... I believe the chassis was designed based on an R33 and that there aren't that many differences between series 1 and series 2 (ie. same chassis) so the exhaust should be the same (ie. R33 split pipe ftw). Just my thoughts....

Well this might be completely wrong, but I had the same trouble with my series 2, tiptronic auto, and it was a transmission fault. One of the two main shift solenoids (which I think controls hydraulic fluid flow) and a hydraulic pressure regulator, both part of the same component pretty much, were faulty and caused random stalling when I came to a stop. Engine ran fine otherwise. It wasn't happening right as I stopped but abo9ut a half second or so after. If you have an auto trans problem then a good auto trans specialist might be able to diagnose it from a test; don't know if this trouble extends to the M35 or not but it is common on series 2/R34.