DaveB

Well got the site working again for me today - had to disable my cache, which means it now loads even more slowly Yeah $400 for a 2nd-hand gearbox is pretty good. Of course you still have the same old difficulties of not knowing what kind of condition it is in. And it seems to be about ~$400 to do shift kit (to save the bands, which are v expensive), $450 (+ $200 installation) to replace the shift solenoids (which seem to give trouble at around 100,000K's), and if after that your bands go anyway... it is somewhere around 3,000 - 3,500 to get the box rebuilt with kevlar bands, shift kit and new solenoids (and not much else done to it?) So the decision of whether to spend $600+ to fix one problem on a $400 box when you know you will have to lump the lot if something else goes wrong is a difficult one for me... At any rate, I have got the car booked in for Wednesday morning at MV autos and they will take a look at it and hopefully be able to tell me if the fault code is wiring or solenoid trouble. I have been told ~$450 (can't remember exactly) for new solenoids and $200 labour to replace (including new oil etc). I don't think a faulty solenoid can be blamed on the 100,000K service when they didn't touch the 'box, so hoping that it is disturbed wiring or something.

I would also like to know this; I have the same problem with the same gearbox (but mine is in a S2 stagea). Stock power levels & I have had the MV autos shift kit fitted about 3 months ago? I am getting a fault code for shift solenoid A.

Just read the codes off the A/T diagnostic mode, it was a fault code 4 this time (shift solenoid A). It's had a shift kit fitted, so maybe they have played with this stuff? My $2,000 question is, is it a sensor/wiring issue, or a problem with the solenoid/gearbox?

Thanks guys KiwiRS4T: I'll get under there and check it out (although it's getting 'under' that is difficult - it's so damn low). The latest is that I picked the car up from the workshop yesterday after they had basically checked it over. They contacted MV autos but apparrently they didn't have a solution either; mechanic knows that the auto fault codes only go to 13 in the book but he swears he got a fault code 14... The car has been slipping in reverse; when its cold can't back it up the driveway cause won't stay in gear. Got another A/T light fault on the way to work today; couldn't remember the (damn long) procedure to read the codes, but it started slipping badly in every gear as though it had no trans fluid (but the garage checked that) - so I'm guessing one of the fault codes was 7 (lock-up solenoid). Workshop suggested that besides a dodgy connector the fault could be TPS; apparrently it has two different circuits - one for the ECU (which is not logging a TPS fault) and one for the trans. Trouble is a new TPS is somewhere in the region of $300 from Nissan so not easy to check. PS Not sure what's been up with SAU, but I haven't been able to access the site for about 3 days, from several different locations and several different browsers? It's been saying 'invalid or unsupported compression scheme' in firefox and IE has just been failing to load the site. Lynx shows garbage, like viewing a binary file.

Thanks ssshonky... let's hope that's not the case... can always hope... I forgot to mention 2 things though - 1. they do have a 2wd dyno and 2. when I called the workshop and he told me about the plugs, he explained that they pull this plug to make the transmission run in 3rd gear only. And when I spoke to him when I picked the car up he said that they pull the front driveshaft... so I hope he was not being 'lazy'...

Just a thought guys, but to me all of these problems sound like they could be caused by a bad battery, and/or alternator...

Thanks KiwiRS4T. And I went with... 2. It's good to know that 3 is possible though; I need to get around to this sometime cause I'm starting to get the clicking ATTESA relay problem (and fault code 77). I called the workshop and they said that when they dyno them, they unplug the brown connector which runs next to two other white/grey connectors down the inlet side of the engine, under the manifold. So, I will probably go out during my lunch break and check it. Hope it's a simple fix...

Hi all, A nasty problem has started showing up with my S2 right after getting it back from its 100,000K service. I literally picked the car up, drove a couple of streets, stopped at a T intersection, put it into tiptronic mode and it stalled on me. Never experienced anything like this before. I thought 'ooooo-k' started again and all seemed good. But now it is stalling/trying to stall all the time when I come to a stop, especially when it's cold, whether in tiptronic or drive. I got the car stock as a rock from Japan in March. Couple of months ago I took it to MV autos for a 100,000K trans service and had them fit a 'stage 1' shift kit at the same time. They said the trans looked good, fluid was clean with no debris. Awesome difference to shift quality! So all has been well for several thousand more K's (recently did 2,000K's of highway driving to Melbourne and back no problems). But then I booked the car in for its 100,000K service and since the drive home from the workshop the transmission has been playing up - now its begun jumping in and out of 1st at low speed (shuffling between 1st and 2nd or something) and the transmission light has come on a few times, and flashed for the regimental 8 seconds after I pull over, turn ignition off and start again. The fault codes I got on an A/T diag (as seen here) were: 4 - Shift solenoid A 5 - Shift solenoid B 6 - Overrun clutch solenoid 7 - Lock-up solenoid 12 - Total control signal BTW, I asked that the workshop not do a trans service since I'd had one done with the shift kit a few thousand K's ago and there is no trans service on the itinerary. So... if you've bothered to read this far, I thank you! - is there anything else that rings a bell with anyone here, anyone experienced transmission trouble after a major service? The workshop actually takes the car to MV autos to get the transmission service done when they do it, so I'm pretty sure they don't go poking around in there themselves (maybe they topped up with the wrong fluid?) Maybe another wiring harness/vacuum line left unplugged?

x2 - that leaves you with a row of black boxes too.

Did some highway driving over the last few days (about 2,000Ks), without cruise-control (so speed was not exactly perfectly constant) plus overtaking etc. and I noticed that the average trip speed would sit at 110km/hour... which seemed too exact? Does the unit show average speeds above 110?

PM sent

Just booked my S2 in at a place in Adelaide for $1,250 (maybe they spotted my post?), less $140 for the transmission service (had MV Autos install a shift kit couple months ago) works out to ~$1,100, but may be a bit extra for new tensioner & idler bearings. That basically includes supply & fit new timing belt, all fluids, replace accessory belts (good 'cause mine are damn noisy at startup) & dyno tune.

Hey Tim have you tried an ATTESA diagnostic? The pins to short are around somewhere on this forum... when I ran it it was consistently reporting fault code 77, which is pressure switch. I'm guessing that's the problem in 90% of these cases... if it was the relay, ATTESA wouldn't work at all.

Hey messanic any more news for us?

Cool, good idea. Will be doing one of those shortly... to Victoria lol :laughing-smiley-014:

Cool Will be watching with interest... fantastic little unit. BTW, can anyone confirm: is 380cc correct injector size for series 2 stagea (R34 RB25DET)?

Yeah the rubbing is an issue on RS-Four's too.

Got my display a week or so ago, installation couldn't have been easier. The information you can access with this little unit is extremely useful - thanks Peter, my Stag' now has what it has always lacked - a tripmeter! Now my mate with the R31 Silhouette can't say his has more features...

Would it be better to get that mini-SD port going...? Data logging?

Just thought I'd say that I got a quote from a reputable workshop in Adelaide who do a lot of work on imports and they said ~$1,250 (I can't remember the exact price, but it was around there). This for a series 2 RS-Four V (auto), and they said everything got changed - plugs, fluids (diffs, auto, brake fluid) air cleaner, fuel filter, spark plugs, timing belt, idler & tensioner pulleys & water pump... I must say, considering the cost of components to do it yourself anyway, I'm still thinking about it... I know I can do it 'cause I've had it far enough apart before, but I just don't know if I can justify the time. Plus I could get them to do a couple of extra things like replace the exhaust manifold gasket and studs, checkout the manifold for cracks for hopefully not too much extra while they're there...

Second that; it's a genuine factory feature alright. If I unlock the car with the remote on the key, it will re-lock itself after about a minute *only if* I don't open any doors. Once I've opened a door, that's all I have to do - it doesn't matter if I shut it again, etc. it won't auto-lock until I lock, unlock with the remote again. I have never tried with the boot... since the boot doesn't trigger the interior (passenger compartment) light though I suspect that it will still re-lock... maybe remember to open one of the doors (only have to open-shut to cancel the auto-lock feature).

ooh, nasty... I always worry about this happening; the hook that's meant to hold the wires to the buckle recept. doesn't work very well. Perhaps you could post a pic', and somebody with a working assembly could compare? Those things seem to be a dime-a-dozen though on the jap auctions maybe best to just get a complete new set.

15 now yay

Manual for mine says 7 seconds. Less and there may be a fault, more and there may be a fault, flashing and there may be a fault etc...

wow, they got it out without removing the engine? those guys must be good