DaveB

'33 gtst front caliper is 4 spot? cool pity I just had 6mm machined off my '33 rotors

Yep, sure did... I can confirm that the R33 rotors DO NOT FIT 4wd stageas either. For the record, for those confused... I am talking about stagea 4WD, series 2, front rotors... the R33 rotors *do not fit* here.

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Hi guys, is ~200awkw possible with the standard r34/S2 smic?

...ah... just thought again and realised that R33 calipers won't fit these rotors as they're now too small!!! bugger

Thanks Madaz, that's actually one way of salvaging my now useless rotors... *IF* 1. R33GTST calipers will fit and not foul the rotor (I don't see how this is possible when the caliper mounts will be the same?) 2. Are R33 calipers really that much of an upgrade over the S2 stageas? they are both twin piston jobs... are the R33 pads bigger or something? 3. The lines fit.... edit: 4. The damage machines out of the driver-side rotor But, I'd have to get a workshop to fit them, 'cause I can't do a vacuum bleed of the brake circuit at home. Anyone know what is wrong here? Is Sydneykid's post incorrect, or do my '33GTST rotors have the wrong offset? S1 v S2 difference? Cheers DaveB

Lol just read post above this re what appears to be the same problem... But wasn't sure if that was about front or rears, as I think GorGasm's Stagea is a 2WD and I read the rears are different on 2WD's? Hi all, I had a bit of a problem here... I got hold of some RDA R33 GTST rotors via the long-running SAU group buy and had them machined down. However, they fit but the offset is wrong - they foul the caliper mounts. Unfortunately, since this doesn't actually prevent you from re-installing the caliper, I was able to install the first one, then reverse the car out of the garage to get at the other side. This was when I heard some binding noise, and sure enough it'd taken great chunks out of the rotor... here are some pic's of the problem: Where it fouled the caliper The mess it made of the rotor Side-on showing difference in offset between the original Nissan rotor (left) and the RDA R33GTST rotor (right) Can anybody else who has fitted the '33 GTST rotors to a series 2 stagea comment on this? My question now is, were the rotors made to the wrong dimensions, or do they not actually fit (in which case, I suggest a modification to the original post above...) Thanks DaveB

I'd be interested to know if I should upgrade my transmission cooler; I've seen plenty about this for series 1's (which just have a bit of bent pipe with some fins, basically) but what about series 2's? They have a more substantial looking radiator-type cooler. I have done the MV Autos valve body upgrade with a 100,000 K service which should help too.

Make: Nissan Model: Bluebird Milage: ~230,000km (new speedo went in with series III guage upgrade) Transmission: 3spd auto Colour: white Location: Adelaide, SA Complied? yes (Australian delivered) RWC supplied? no Currently registered? no (lapsed by 2 months, will re-register if necessary) Price: $500ono Contact: David Branford (Please PM me or you can e-mail me at [email protected]) Comments / Modifications: Twin SU carburetors from the 180B SSS (common upgrade) + Pacemaker extractors, center muffler removed (little to no difference to exhaust volume) Images:

I would also like to know this; this is what I intend to do with my series 2...

X2

Wow, that's awesome apart from the colour (and the "Stag" decals). I didn't know side airbags were even available on the leather seats!!

Yeah but a Dayz rear lower-lip spoiler for series *2* has to be about one of the rarest most sough-after bloody parts known to stagea...

Same here. Better torque, better fuel economy... obviously only before mod's. But since I have to live with an auto, the MV Autos shift kit and tiptronic sure makes it a lot more fun

X2!

Man that sucks, another stag is written off... but, at least you did a convincing job of it! At least you're OK... looks like that could've gone worse.

awesome stuff, thanks for the info!

Wow, good luck with the discount! look forward to seeing it... yeah the 'slide out' bit makes it possible to get it away from the xanavi controls (so you can flip it back). I don't think it looks too bad at all to have 2 displays - still less than your average rice hatch has in the boot. And the bottom screen can fold away.

Oops, finally got some replies and I missed them!!! sorry! Awesome Ed!!! Just what I was looking for for weeks before I gave up... if I can get hold of one of these convertors, I will give it a go! That looks like the sort of thing, as it appears to split out the video/audio signal from the climate control connections. ...ohhh waiiit a minute, 41,000Y FARK! that's over 400 bucks not including postage??! (a home job too?) CL11QE the progress is that, I am waiting on somebody to supply me the plugs & wire off a standard climate control for a series 2 (has to be series 2, series 1's had different plugs). I've had a couple of leads (pardon the pun) but nothing has eventuated yet. Just waiting on one possibility in a Sydney wrecking yard, and one forum member. Chook - I want to replace the screen because: - it doesn't have a VGA connection (well not one that I can trace anyway) and is therefore too fuzzy to use for a car PC - I need a touch screen (again, can't trace touchscreen connections) - it's small, only 6.5 inches (hmm) but not overly bothered - it's in japanese (again not too bothered) - I can't use it while the vehicle's in motion (for playing audio files, of course) I prefer stock, and I would love to use the Xanavi unit, but I just haven't been able to overcome these problems. basically my aim is just to get a decent picture, the factory screen is low-res (about 236 lines vertically) and only has a composite input, I need 800x480 at least and an RGB input (to get text I can reeeeeaaad). Oh, and I have tried the fold-out monitor thing, it looks something like this: Bear in mind, that you can't go much past vertical with the fold-up screen, as it fouls the temperature knob. <rant> All in all the wiring is just a pr*ck, why did they change the whole flippin harness to go from an LCD to a bigger LCD climate control? It has a whole different loom, because the RGB and audio connections for the monitor are combined into the Xanavi climate control harness, meaning that they end up with two slightly different plugs, and a completely different wiring harness... I think the designer in charge of that one needs a </rant>

I suppose there is some easy way of adapting the RB30 block to take the 4WD sump?

Pretty sure you could get to the connections on the rear glass to test with a multimeter; just checking for 12V between each connection and chassis will tell you the current is getting there. Then there could still be a break in the demister circuit that is printed on the glass; sometimes they can be solved using a special silver texta which you can get from electronics stores to complete circuits... anyone else gone down this path?

Yes! still looking for the plugs + wire... got an offer from a guy in Sydney who is on these forums but he has so far been too busy. Edit: Sorry I took so long to catch your reply... kinda gave up after the first month or so! Still looking though

interesting, thanks

Thanks Rianto, R33GTS-T slotted rotors arrived today (this from group buy 32). Thanks for organising this!!

If it's in low boost mode I suggest running the ECU diag' to get a fault code.