DaveB

cheers

Niiice, that's a well-prepared engine bay Are those Tein adjustable dampers? Is you turbo heatshield aluminium? I always thought that a lesser heat-conducting metal was best? Looks like it works well enough anyway, very substantial (like, 1/4 inch thick?!)

Not me, but if it does I wanna see pics!

Yes pretty sure I saw airbag module screws under there when I removed the glove box. There are some details about how to do that in a thread somewhere about 'air con filter' replacement. But pretty much just open the glove box and start removing screws; there are about a dozen.

Thanks Wolverine/Al. Seems like rather different thinking to N/A where it's pretty much just tuned-length extractors and that's manifold done... but obviously much greater temps/pressures to deal with here. Couple of thoughts; would extrude honing of the factory (cast?) manifold make it more prone to cracking? I'm a little worried about cracking as it is; I've read about a few stock RB25 manifolds on here that have cracked, or in 1 case (SK's) completely broken, between 3 and 4. Plus I have a pretty noisy spool and I want to be sure the culprit is not a manifold leak. Thanks for your advice; looks like much e-bay searching is in order (the Australian-made stuff, not no-name Chinese stuff of course) Edit: How do you shield the heat from a tube manifold like the ETM and 6boost designs? I've come to the realisation that nothing factory is gonna fit with a custom manifold, which means no heat shield, and I've heard that exhaust-wrap shortens the life of your manifold (they overheat and corrode/crystallize or something). So how to heat shield them? This being a low-mount manifold on an RB25DET

Thanks guys, 400hp beats 200kw by a fair margin, so that sounds good enough Looks like I'll go for the stock one unless it has cracked. If it has though how much for a decent stainless manifold approx. should I be paying? I'd seen some on Jap auctions for ~$200-300 Aus (plus postage) but sounds like they might not be the go

Lol! sorry Dervish, I should've put these up a few days ago eh. But look on the bright side; now you've got a source of spares...

Hi all, I am just considering options for my stagea, and it occurs to me that at my 100,000 K service (which will be very soon) it would be a good idea to replace my exhaust gasket & studs/nuts, when I fix my leaking rocker cover gasket on the exhaust side. Are stainless manifolds worth the 'upgrade' (if that is what they are) for a stock configuration (ie. low-mount turbo & heat shields) if all I want is ~200awkw? This is a series 2/NEO setup if that makes any difference. Thanks for your thoughts

Hi all, With the help of some people on here, and the Japanese auctions, I've finished converting my S2 prime edition from woodgrain to silver (that was always my intention). I still have all my woodgrain bits in good condition, sitting in a box in bubble-wrap, and I really need to move them on. I also know that some people on here are closet woodgrain fans... I'll endeavor to pull them out to take photos in the next couple of days but you probably know what these are anyway, so here is a list for now: All these parts were removed from my S2 prime with 88,533 on the clock, and I think the prices are fair considering what I've paid for these trim pieces in silver: Buyer to pay postage please, should be $15 max for even the larger items within Australia, let me know if you want registered, express etc. woodgrain centre console aircon vent surround with stagea writing & emblem (fits above stereo) - good condition, $50 woodgrain stereo surround (xanavi style) - good condition, $50 woodgrain ash tray - good condition, $20 woodgrain tiptronic gear surround, bare except for cigarette lighter socket, rubber square around shifter hole, and a small 'knobbly bit' which is barely noticeable on the crease of the cigarette lighter socket (probably ciggie lighter related, I'll get a photo) - good condition, $50 woodgrain cup holders (mount in centre console under radio) - good condition, $25 woodgrain driver's side door switch plate, without switches - good condition, $25 woodgrain passenger door switch plates, without switches - good condition, $25 for all 3 That is all the woodgrain pieces that were in my prime edition when I got it, except for the wheel (which I have swapped with a woodgrain fan on SAU ), and would give your S2 a complete factory-standard woodgrain interior. Please note that to the best of my knowledge the tiptronic gear surround will not suit series 1's as theirs is different (no tiptronic). I think that the rest of the parts will fit series 1, but I can't guarantee it... recommend you try a search here first or ask someone. Feel free to ask for photos, I have a digital camera and I'm not afraid to use it... Cheers Dave B

Cheers for your research Paul. Quick question: is this EL setup dimmable?

Well if you have them replace the whole ATTESA pump assembly (of which I am pretty sure the pressure switch is integral), you might fix it

Hmm that sounds like the ATTESA pump? Duncan, anybody else have a better idea? I'm no auto electrician, but I'd start with the relay and check that it's actually switching power at its output, then check that that output appears at the ATTESA pump harness. If no power to the ATTESA pump, faulty relay (or wiring/earth connection). If power at the ATTESA pump... well... could be expensive (could be the pump itself). But I think playing swapsies with the relay is the first point of call (because it's cheap if a volunteer is available and should give a result very quickly), and definitely reset the ATTESA fault codes (short some pins - details here somewhere, search for 'attesa diagnostic').

That's true I guess, although ABS is 'mission critical', and any sensor error should cause the ABS light to come on...? Sorry what do you mean about the code 77 - does that relate to ABS too? or you mean you are getting code 77?

cool... still hoping we might find out what that infernal clicking is all about surely the money is on the pressure switch... has to be the pressure switch...

I must admit though that ABS sensors would make even more sense if: a) 'pressure switch (77)' wasn't being reported in the ATTESA diagnostic b) the ABS light stays on when you start the car (indicating an ABS fault), because a faulty ABS sensor should trip an ABS fault (there are plenty of failsafes for that)

Niiice So you've decided not to sell?

nice... so bright. good to see the classic 'red paint fade' hasn't bitten yet... keep the polish and wax on it! That is going to cause a few second-takes for sure

sorry then you're selling ...the car, right? Shame to get rid of the stagea surely... how can one go back to a boring old Australian car after a Stag???

Interesting.... thanks for the update....

lol well done. and today I spotted him on flagstaff road - got a thumbs up; was too much 'wtf thats awesome' to respond in time

Damn, that is cheap. Resale value falling... but... was it a prime??? (eg. leather interior w/heated & electric seats?) Haven't seen many primes around, wonder what the difference in retail value would be.

X2 yes please PLEASE let us know what they fix!!