DaveB

Great stuff! More Adelaide Stageas

Congratulations! As they say, the wait is a killer Good choice on the Prime, the heated leather seats are awesome in cold weather - they heat up quicker than the climate control

Lol I hate leaving posts unfinished; so just thought I'd add here for prosperity that I managed to get the oil cooler on, top up the cooling system (there are *two* air-bleed points on the NEO) and drive to the inspection, didn't miss a beat

lol sorry I suppose I should have limited that observation to the series 2's... didn't notice yours was standard was parked right next to mine too lol (it's the white one in that picture) I guess there were a few series 1's with the original rims. Wasn't the red RS-Four registered before 2004? Can't remember who is was but read about it a while ago.

Great stuff guys. I just turned up for a bit of a look-see; hung around at the tail of the cruise for a bit but left to head off up to Kuitpo for bit of 'camping' lol. Was great to see (almost) all of the Adelaide Stags in the one place; some awesome ones out there. Sadly I turned up to find I was the only one there with stock rims, exhaust and suspension (someone had TWO canons... ) but oh well, only had it on the road a few weeks. Well done Adam

Well that is on a skyline I'm pretty sure (R32?) but I think I have found the Stagea one, I think it's the black connector (jumper) under the driver's side dash, on the firewall, at the bottom, to the right... sort-of at the back of the driver's side kickpanel... I will take a photo sometime. Basically I believe the purpose of the jumper is for bleeding the ATTESA system without having to have the engine running. I think it works like thus: - turn ignition on, but don't start engine. - remove the jumper. - the attesa pump starts and holds a constant pressure in the attesa hydraulic system, allowing for a very easy 'one-man' bleed operation where you only have to open the bleed valve(s) and let fluid out. As I say, I only think that's what happens, from other members' advice and from reading sites like that one... but I reckon this is pretty close. I'm going to try bleeding mine as the clicking is getting worse and is annoying. It could also be doing harm. Fault codes say 77, which I think is the pressure switch. The manual shows that being integral to the pump assembly, just in front of the pump/diff. But there may be a wiring problem; hopefully just a fouled connector, perhaps from when they did my underbody cleaning at quarantine.... well I can hope.

Yeah let us know what happens...

Yeah definitely don't pull the fuse, don't drive it without the fuse without removing the front driveshaft as well! apparently you have to drop front driveshaft to avoid doing damage in 2wd mode, not like R32's where u could just pull the fuse... Lol just imagining a bunch of Mitsubishi mechanics all going 'wtf is THAT?' My clicking is only about every 10 seconds-30seconds when the revs are low(say 1,500 down to idle) and I have been driving around like this for a couple weeks; but I don't know how bad yours is... personally I would get it fixed asap, attesa pumps are expensive I hear.

Cool, looks very tidy! Did you have much trouble getting the cable for the camera through the tube that carries wires out of the cabin into the top of the boot door (if you know the ones I mean - I presume you used the left-hand one)?

lol cheers wasn't blinded, u were sorta facing at right-angles to me, and stag S2 high beams look cool from outside

Are the RB25 AFM's adjustable like on the RB30 (Aussie spec') ones? I think they have a series adjustable resistor or something.

well I can't talk for R338OY but I say... yes. and be sure to let us know when you get your 'stagea art' published in a magazine

Hmm I don't get smoke (except when cold) but have a fairly noisy spool and fair amount of oil in all the inlet pipes (had them all off to replace exhaust gasket), does this mean anything bad?

Just a thought if u found rubber instead of fluid, who knows how low it was... maybe real low. Might make a big difference now that you've topped it up fingers crossed. Just a side note, does anyone know where the heck the missing fluid goes??? ie. why does the level reduce over time? Does it leak out? :S

hmm yeah s'pose that could've been me eh. I went past a silver series 2 turning onto north terrace near west terrace, flashed his high beams at me (haven't seen what that looks like from the outside before ) and I tried to be a smart arse and flash foggies but damned if I could find the switch in time )

Yeah me too, powder coating is the way to go I think, $40/rim is a bargain wish there were places that cheap in Adelaide

Hi bluesky4me, Yes look in the Stagea DIY (sticky) Transmax Z is the stuff to use; I've looked on the label on the bottle and it says "Nissan D-Matic" (or is it Nissan Matic-D - whatever) so that sounds good since the service manual for the Stagea specifies that. I have successfully used a Valvoline Dextron III substitute; the guy at the Motormate swore that it was the same as Transmax Z... however that was just to top up my level and I will at some stage soonish probably bleed it with the Transmax Z, but for now $9 sounded better than $75 for that ...anyway I have the filter too; I seem to remember reading about all the 'layers' in the reservoir somewhere, it may have been somewhere on this site: http://tyndago.googlepages.com/gt-rattesainfrormation

Cool, will be watching this thread with interest

Hmmm thanks that's useful to know!

Good news! well done

very awesome. deserving of a

lol! sounds cool...

I think Tangles has a Z32 MAF sensor on his series 1?

Thanks messanic I'm interested to see what you/they find out Congrats on your new ride, looks like you got a full Dayz kit on your series 2

Amongst that first thread you mentioned (SK's excellent guide to exhaust cam pulley change) SK says: Maybe that might help explain a difference?