DaveB

authoritive answer damn though so how far did you get with your 'camp script funkymonkey? It's been a couple years now...

Just thought guys, if the above is the case, does this suggest that it's more likely, or less likely that it's the pressure switch? ie. what is the significance of the relay only clicking with the engine running?

Thanks, will do So there is an earth connection from attesa pump -> chassis; can you remember off-hand where any other earth connections are that I should check for the attesa circuit?

Thanks but my main interest is for things like boost/manifold pressure etc. which I didn't think I can get from the factory ECU? Anybody know if boost is available through consult? If so then I might just wait until NewKleer has finished Ecutalk v2...

Just for prosperity's sake... my S2 is exactly 10% out too; reads 10km/h above what I'm doing (verified by GPS etc) at 60 and above. I have the standard tyre profile of 205/55/16 and brand new tyres. I'm going to fit the Jaycar speedo corrector kit - thanks for the verification that it works on S2 Chook! Which wire is it??? I would like to trace it without removing dash if at all possible...

is not 300kW > 400hp?

having trouble tracing the final progress of Sydneykid's 200awkw endeavours; does anybody know where this finished up? And is 180awkw possible with the standard series 2/R34 sidemount cooler? Did SK go a fmic?

Digging up an old thread... has anybody made any more progress on this? I'm planning on putting a PC in the dash to replace the factory Xanavi unit and the idea of having guages available on there and not having to mount pods and stuff is very appealing to say the least... for $300 (if I don't need to pay extra for any other wiring setup etc) it sounds plausible to me, either new or secondhand...

My guess is that hopefully the ATTESA actuator simply requires topping up and/or filling. I topped mine up (a little over full to be safe) and my relay only clicks about once every 30 seconds max. now. Full name of ATTESA is ATTESA-ETS, so I'm guessing that's what the ETS is (Advanced Total Traction Engineering System for All - Electronic Torque Split) I would *really like to know* what the dealer makes of your problem, if they can solve it! Please do keep us posted!

Hmm thought to check the attesa reservoir after a drive, with engine still running, and it was just a little bit below the min. Sooo I got some ATF (which the guy assured me was a direct substitute for Transmax Z, which I couldn't find in 1-litre containers, and I didn't want to pay $75) and topped it up. Top layer is a different colour now lol Seems to have had a positive effect; clicking is down to every 30 seconds or thereabouts usually, sometimes a little more frequent, but never more often than 15-20. Is this normal? I plan to bleed it in the nearish future (perhaps for 100,000K service) and check battery terminal connections (the auxiliary connections to the terminals, not the terminals themselves - thanks ceedub).

Lol pretty sharp there Duncan

Thanks ceedub - i'm gonna check that out, I have cleaned up the main terminals already but I'll check the things plugged into them.

Awesome! welcome!

Yes it is issue 89, "Road Test: M35 Stagea" I got that magazine/dvd pack, only HPI mag I've ever bought (because it had a Stagea review ) I won't post a full critique right now, but basically I thought the reviewer was a just little vague, and missed a couple of finer points (like saying in the spec's that the M35 was manufactured '96 -> current, but Nissan announced last year that they had ceased production of the Stagea). The review does praise the M35 a lot when comparing it to the C34 models, specifically for its refinement, added space, improved rear visibility I think and improved styling (?). I don't like the assumption the reviewer makes for the latter. Some like the M35, some like the C34. One is not better than the other in my book, it's purely and simply a matter of personal preference (and budget), as it is with any import. Lots of praise for the smoothness of the VQ engine (the VQ25DET turbo was tested in this review) and the boost comes on a little suddenly, apparently. All in all the reviewer seemed to like the M35... I will lookup some more details when I can

:laughing-smiley-014: Same here in a little road trip back from Pt Pirie only difference is my clicking is not back again - it just never went away

Cool, thanks for that - good info $60 for 4 litres... Transmax Z was ~$70 for 4 litres from my local store; pretty close in price I guess. Reasonable price for a dealer though lol

Thanks yeah might have to try bleeding it. Castrol Transmax Z in gearbox/attesa/power steering right?

Maybe? Wouldn't that be cool Hoping so... don't wanna have to remove rear diff' so might just have to wait and see what happens... 4wd is working and no warning lights. will top up attesa reservoir and reset attesa ecu fault codes.

Interesting. Though I have stock wheels and brand new tyres in stock profile (205/55/R16) fitted at compliance ("Antyre"). Although it seems to only start after car has warmed up... I ran the diagnostic as mentioned here by chook: and got fault code 77 - attesa pressure switch. Even after successfully resetting the fault codes, and starting the car and letting it idle for a couple of minutes, the fault code reappeared. Anybody know where this infernal pressure switch is located???

Thanks for the tip on the 22mm spanner Not much room to swing it under there... think I managed to get nearish to the specified 40 foot pounds on it though. I just got a Bosch sensor for EL Falcon; $75 came in box with new sealing ring and pre-greased with some sort of anti seize compound. It has the same colour code wires. Just hope it works once I've crimped the wires; I'll run an ECU diagnostic and check for EGO sensor failure codes. EDIT: Well it would appear that Bosch EL Falcon EGO sensor into S2 Stagea (Neo) does go! I haven't checked ECU EGO fault codes yet (just to see if my wiring job is OK), but I just did a trip to Pirie and I've done 415.5 K's on this tank with a feather of the needle over 1/4 of a tank left, and that's with about 1/4 metro driving. So some sort of improvement somewhere, I've gained more than a 1/4 of a tank, I'll crack 500 this tank pretty certain. Oh yeah, and Happy Easter!

Thanks Stagea_Neo re: LED's; the LED devices themselves come in a variety of diameters/sizes, among the most common sizes are 5mm diameter and 3mm diameter, so I believe they could almost definitely be made to fit. They always have long legs too (when they are installed on a circuit board the legs are cut short) which would reach through the socket to the base. Saying that you could not simply connect each LED directly to the socket without a current limiting resistor in series with each LED (unless you have a T5 globe or something like that, which has been designed with a current limiting resistor built in); 1K ohms for a 20mA LED should be about right by my calculations (based on 13.8V) but you should probably check this. A big range of colours/hi/low brightness options and low price (about 20 cents each) means I will probably go LED's soon as I think they could be installed relatively easily with the aid of a soldering iron.

Going to try this fix tomorrow; getting ~380K's to a tank (about the same as the old bluebird ) Has anybody seen any significant improvement from changing the EGO sensor alone? I am still running stock exhaust and compliance cat'.

Thanks Mike Registered and on the road as of last Friday woohoo finally

Edit: I just ran the ATTESA diagnostic and I am receiving fault code 77. May be a common fault, there are several other people on here reporting similar symptoms. Please could somebody shed some light on what the pressure switch is / where it is located? I can't find it in FAST! --------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------- Thanks Duncan, I didn't know that the ATTESA system could be bled without the aid of a workshop - that is good news. Had noticed the bleeder valves in FAST before. I don't think the pump is dead because I get traction from the front wheels and no 4WD light coming on; I will check the fault codes. Assuming the codes are the same as PhilTacular (77 - pressure switch) where is this switch located? That's good news Are you getting the clicking ATTESA relay problem? Thanks!

Hey Reuben what can you hear ? My turbo is pretty noisy to my ears; I can pop the bonnet and rev it a little and it sounds like a noisy fan. When it's making full boost (with the high boost mod, so it happens at ~2,250 RPM and there's less engine noise to compete with) it sounds like a pretty loud noise, bit like a jet plane taking off but not that loud. Not loud enough now for people on the side of the road to hear - I don't think - but disturbing. Dunno if it's normal... will try to record a sound clip for you all...