DaveB

Thanks Status, I was hoping that I had found the cause of my pinging troubles, now not so sure...

found out that the probe was inserted into a vacuum connection on the manifold...

That's what I've been wondering. Where have other people mounted theirs - plenum/intake manifold or intercooler outlet?

Cool, cheers Stao

That seems to match what I've seen so far - the cooler does seem to heat-soak badly. On a previous tune (RWD dyno) the car would make 250rwkw on one run, then on the next it would hit R&R and blow tons of black smoke and make 200... it was odd. I have replaced the stock intake pipe with a stiffer silicone pipe from Just Jap; do you think this would suck closed under (this level of) boost?

Running about 16psi at 6,000rpm falls back to about 15psi at 6800. I am considering a turbo upgrade... but I plan to get the car tuned for E85 so I might just stick with this turbo for now (heck it's only ~50,000km old). Although the GCG issues of poor boost control and tricky oil seal at idle are still plaguing me.

Lol main idea was to keep intake pipes to stock length and keep response up; theoretically the A2W setup can extract a lot more heat than a standard inter cooler but in practice not so sure... I'll look for some pics of the installation... it took so damned long I was just happy when it was working and I could hear the extra flow

Thanks Stao Artz my housing is OP6 and car is auto as well (series 2 stagea). Cooler is a water to air 500hp unit.

Interesting. Stock air box, stock intake pipe apart from the cooler which is air to water cooler with 3" in and out. The tuner measured about 5 or 6psi of exhaust back pressure I believe, which he thought was a little high but reasonable. The exhaust is completely straight-through 3", so we slightly suspect the metal cat as being too restrictive (3.5-4" body) or else an undersized turbo exhaust housing (GCG high-flow of the stock NEO turbo).

Hi all, I'm trying to locate some intake temp graphs for RB25's to see what they *should* be at the intercooler output. I am making about 217kw and I have an intake temp graph from the dyno which shows the intake reaching 58deg C near max power/revs. The tuner suggested 48 degrees would be closer to the desired temperature. The car is running I think about 8 degrees less timing than standard up top and I am wondering whether the high intake temps may be a contributing factor. So I am trying to get an idea of whether 58 degrees is high for ~220kw; can anyone shed some light? PS I suppose it would help to mention that ambient temperature on the day was 26 degrees C cheers DaveB

Thanks for the details Springsteen, feeling a little better about doing a short cruise up to Sydney soon :-) No play in the wheel bearings that I can tell. That's great stuff John - I think mine sounds very similar; if anything yours is pretty quiet... but yeah same sort of dull roar when coming to a stop, I used to have bad road noise with the Max is MA-Z1s, seems with these Max is V1s it's similar.

Ah so is that what the extra bolt in the bearing assembly is for (saw that in the pic in the workshop manual) thanks guys... from your descriptions it sounds like it is tyre noise. I only really noticed it after I had new tyres fitted (maxxis MA-V1's) and previously I had had the Z1's which were noisy. It it more of a high-med pitch whine/dull roar which starts at probably about 60km/h so I guess it sounds more like road noise (although could be diff - but doesn't change between accelerate/coast) Only thing which confuses me a bit is that it gets gradually louder when braking, and continues down to fairly low speed (about 20km/h) when you pull up. Nothing very load, but noticeable, and from the back of the car.

Does anybody have a part number? Found them online for $150 each (!) but I only suspect that it's wheel bearing (could be diff') and if I replace one, I need to replace both... not keen to spend $300 chasing a noise...

Hi Mingfei, Here is a conversion harness like the one I used: http://www.importmonster.com.au/view?url=http://page18.auctions.yahoo.co.jp/jp/auction/w80049623&thumb=http://auctions.c.yimg.jp/img299.auctions.yahoo.co.jp/users/5/5/2/7/hotelbread_ok-thumb-13514127581900.jpg&title=C34%20AV I know it works for Japanese Stage as, I don't know about Malaysian Cefiros!

Hmm sounds like mine. Has never gotten stuck at the Nissan logo though - when it stays on it is usually just the backlight (no image). This flattens the battery though . I have had it apart several times and had all four boards out and resoldered all the external connections. No obvious dry joints that I can find. I have a whole other (known working) unit though to test with now, so I hope to fix it one way or another...

lol I can imagine that... it was a paint enough just getting the 3 connectors unplugged and plugging them into the custom harness. So glad I didn't have to take the box out. bit OT but related... I have another issue where my xanavi unit keeps cutting out (the screen goes out). It will stay out for weeks at a time, and then come on for 10 minutes just randomly. Currently it's in an "out" phase, and when I drive over bumps and potholes it "beeps" (like when you switch it on or off) which makes me think it's an intermittent power connection. I know of at least one other person that this has happened to and I wonder if it's a common issue. I noticed on your pinout Simon that the power to the xanavi unit looks to be in the second of the three connectors on the climate box under the dash. Perhaps the issue could be in that box?

Cool, and an internal reservoir as well (like the brake booster)? I will have to start looking for one of these units; do you have a part number?

So, just coming back to this thread after a few years, to finally lay it to rest... managed to install a standard climate controller in a friend's stagea last night, and it turns out it IS possible... but you need: a) a conversion cable (about $85 in Japan + postage; at time of writing this works out to about $150) b) obviously a standard climate control unit, mounting rails and facia c) to find the control box (NOT part of the unit itself) and plug your harness into that (3 plugs - you DON'T plug into the xanavi harness!) - see the information here: http://www.skylinesa...ost__p__6482542 With all of that, and about an hour's work, it was finally possible to replace the xanavi unit. Next to work out why the xanavi screen keeps cutting out in my car...

Thanks Brendan. I eventually bit the bullet and bought a conversion harness (Akai brand I think) from Japan, but it was your details of the actual *controller* unit which were the final pieces to the puzzle I needed. Awesome stuff by the way to wire your own conversion harness. The controller unit is a black box squeezed in just to the left-hand side of the foot E-brake pedal (the auto stagea's equivalent of a handbrake) with respect to the driver. Unfortunately, the plugs on this unit are the same as on the xanavi panel itself, and so the harness fits at both ends. Except there are only 2 plugs on the xanavi end. So after hunting for this box, SOMEhow managing to unplug the 3 connectors and connecting them to the aftermarket harness (I now realise why it's a metre long!), we now have a working standard climate control in a xanavi car. So it turns out it is possible! Hurrah.

A vacuum servo? Won't that go bang under boost? Do you know where I can find info on the Maxima units (ie. I guess you're talking about factory-fitted cruise control?)

Bumping an old thread... is the Command AP500 still the go for S2 C34? (with CM22 controller) If so, does anybody know where to get one for less than $549?

Hi all, Has anyone seen this issue: headlights cut out as you indicate. Only happens sometimes, and when it does, I can indicate real slow and get the headlights to go out and stay out until I either turn the indicator on fully or let go of the stalk What I've tried I have tried 3 x indicator stalk assemblies, and the problem has occurred with halogen and HID headlights (had both). It's a strange one... hopefully someone has an idea! cheers DaveB

Thanks POM, yes I do have the factory fittings and I'm hoping I don't have to cut them off and re-connect them!

Hi, just a quick question - does anybody know if it's possible to feed the light plug for the ballast unit (ie. the D2R globe connector) through the headlight assembly, without taking the headlight assembly apart? This is important since I need to replace my ballast unit, and I know that the headlight assembly is put together with glue (tried and failed to take it apart before). thanks DaveB

Also HID's flash on *instantly* when you flick the high beams (halogens take a fraction of a second to reach full brightness, and they're usually yellow). When you turn on the headlights at night, the lights flash on very bright, then slowly fade up... they're just different to halogens.