Canadian 32

ok thanks for all your replies but I found the short after about another 2 hours of searching. It wound up being in the engine bay, in the power wire for the front signal.

No I dont remember it ever coming on without flashing, this was a while back but I think it was just like this one morning when I started it. And as fas as the bulbs, I tested the rear by connecting it directly to a 12V source and it still works. If a bulb was out wouldnt it just make it flash faster?

Ok so like the title states my right turn signal has stopped working, but the left is fine. As soon as you turn on the right signal it blows the fuse, which makes me think there is a short somewhere in he loop. I replaced the 15A fuse with a 25A fuse temporarily to prevent them blowing, and now rather than blowing the signal "flasher" under the dash just starts buzzing. I have ripped out most of the interior to check the wire for damage but could not find anything. Would adding another ground possibly help in case that is where the problem lies? Does anyone have a link to a wiring schematic for an R32? Any advice would be greatly appreciated, thank you

I am looking to replace the rims on my car anytime now. I am really looking into Weds sa-70's and 90's and I am wanting to go 8" front and 9" rear, either 17" or 18" ( i am not set on either). My fenders were already rolled when I bought the car, but it turns out with a baseball bat and no heater so the paint cracked and theres a bit of rust. I am thinking of getting a body shop to just cut the excess off, your thoughts on this? also thinking of flaring the fenders as well, what is the usual cost per fender for this? so the available sizes/offsets are: 17×7.5J 43 5H-114.3 17×8.0J 32・42 5H-114.3 F 17×9.0J 10・20・35 5H-114.3 FR 18×8.0J 36・42 5H-114.3 18×9.0J 32 5H-114.3 R 20 5H-114.3 RR 18×10.0J 32 5H-114.3 R any opinions would be awesome. thank you

I am looking to replace the rims on my car anytime now. I am really looking into Weds sa-70's and 90's and I am wanting to go 8" front and 9" rear, either 17" or 18" ( i am not set on either). My fenders were already rolled when I bought the car, but it turns out with a baseball bat and no heater so the paint cracked and theres a bit of rust. I am thinking of getting a body shop to just cut the excess off, your thoughts on this? also thinking of flaring the fenders as well, what is the usual cost per fender for this? so the available sizes/offsets are: 17×7.5J 43 5H-114.3 17×8.0J 32・42 5H-114.3 F 17×9.0J 10・20・35 5H-114.3 FR 18×8.0J 36・42 5H-114.3 18×9.0J 32 5H-114.3 R 20 5H-114.3 RR 18×10.0J 32 5H-114.3 R any opinions would be awesome. thank you

I am looking into swapping the rb20det out of my r32 gts-t in a month or so. I was planning to swap in an rb25det but it seems that everyone does that, so to do something different I am trying to look into swapping in a vq25det, but cannot find any information on the engine, any performance parts for it and so on. Has anyone heard of this being done? do you think it is possible? thank you very much.

do you know where the flasher unit is? maybe that's what this "niles" box is. thanks man

So I am thinking of completely rebuilding my rb20det that's in my gts-t this summer possibly. I know the majority of things that I will need, but want some opinions as to what parts are better to go with, what will make a stronger engine and so on. I have thought of maybe a 2.2 L OR 2.4L kit as well. so any opinions would be awesome. Anyone know much about Neo swaps maybe..... have a good one

anyone?

Ok so what is happening is at the moment I have to right turn signals. if I try to put them on.... poof goes the fuse, and there is a sound (clicking/buzzing) coming from a small box under the dash that says "NILES IF 302" on it. So this is definately a wiring issue, which is proabbaly a short in the wiring somewhere. I have looked all over but can't find anything. So does anyone have any suggestions as to how to fix it? thank you very much I tested the voltage at the fuse location: 11.90v - 11.77v - 11.90v when left signal is on 11.90v - 11.40v for a brief second, and then the fuse goes

http://forums.gtrcanada.com/showthread.php...el+pump+install theres a write up i did on doing it in a r32 gts-t, dont see how any of our cars would be different.

I was already using the vacuum line at the pressure regulator for my boost gauge, so I just tee'd into that near the firewall and mounted it behind the drivers side strut. you can just use 2 nuts and bolts too eh. maybe try to put some rust protectant on the holes if you drill them out or somehting, i just hate rust.

Ya I have the 3-pin. so I just tee the ground into to the #25 (solenoid valve control.....) and the power to a near acc and im set eh. thanks a ton.

oh ok, thanks man. I had a couple people tell me i need to somehow run a wire from my ecu and so on. so just power(acc) and ground. And I have already installed the MAP sensor and its working fine. So if the selenoid isnt attached to a signal or anything how does it work? sorry im new to this stuff and just want it tall figured out before i go ripping things apart. thanks again

Ok so I need to know how to wire up a boost selenoid on an RB20DET (r32 gts-t). The kit i have is for my PowerFC, before anyone says just unplug the stock and plug in the new one.... my car does not have a stock selenoid. So I need to know how to do it from scratch. The only thing I am having a problem with is wiring it up, everything with the hoses is all good (just replace the one from the wastegate actuator and run it into the selenoid, and back to the intake). Any help would be great. thank you