skybarge

hey man, You'd seriously be risking it i think, with that high boost and low octane, I'd get it tuned down for 91 and drop the boost maybe Because if you've got it as an import from Japan, it'll most probably be tuned to 98 or higher

Yes they are everything from the windscreen wipers forward bolts straight on Things that don't are interior trim, windscreen, A-pillar back Bonnet, bumper, lights are all the same, you can even go GTR guards on a coupe and get the rears flared to match, it looks hot Or get Coupe tail lights onto a 4-door with some cutting of the bootlid and some widening of the existing taillight holes and rewiring of course + coupe rear bumper

I fully aggree with your there NISMO immature drivers, go out, watch a movie like Fast and the Furious(which is really quite sh*thouse) then think, wow, let's race some idiot in his hyundai done up and if we crash like they do on the movies, it'll just dent the front bumper. Next thing they know, they've crashed into someone....thinking they would have the chance to get out the way, I also think most of them have never had an accident before, once you have have one, you'll be worried about your next one that's for sure.

haha, i've seen a few use their Bee-Rs on people following too closely

oh, i can see where people get it wrong sounds like just a GTS with 4-doors they are known as GTS Sedans they GTS Coupes are 2-door then there are the GTS4s which are 4wd turbo, or non turbo for R33 don't worry about the 4wd, you don't have it, as for the hicas, you could do what that document says above, but the guy writes all his messages in CAPS so don't trust him Also the kit he has on his site basically doesn't lose any weight from the system, it keeps it all there. It'll be the hicas causing it to feel funny, i describe it like turning a corner with a deskchair? because it feels so strange Just get a lock bar from here: http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/in...l=hicas+removal and follow this: remove all lines and front solanoid http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/in...p;#entry2100796 As for the wheel imbalance, it happens on most skylines, it might just be a bent castor rod or something, find out what's bent, go to the wreckers get a non-bent one, it shouldn't be much at all then take it to get balanced and it should be close enough to straight

over take them, then use the propane flame thrower on them I'll be posting up details of the one I'm making soon basically using a small camping stove propane tank the boot, nos solanoid and hard lines into th eback of the exhaust, much safer than the one that disconnects your ignition and puts fuel down the line Also can be used on tail gaters just wait and see how fast thye back off when a 6 foot flame shoots out at them

take the front guards off, there are two bolts on either hinge, loosen them, get a mate to push the door up slightly, tighten them, done

man that sucks I hit a lampost in my old gts-t, head on at around 60k ended up needing the chassis straightened, new front guards, bumper both headlights, both indicators, bonnet, radiator and coils due to overheating I paid $4500 to buy the car and it cost me $4000 to have it panelbeated after crashing it after that i drove it for a year and sold it, i should've written it off for parts come to think of it

Yeah I've got the D2 aka Nex coilovers on my GTS4, they are nice, very firm at their lowest setting and look bloody good Compared to my Tein streets with HKS top hats in my GTS-t though, there is no comparison, I love the Teins, but they won't fit my GTS4 and I'm selling the T I'd so go for D2s if you are tight on money, if you have a bit to spend though, go on nengun and spend round $1800 on some teins you won't regret it

"if i drop the clutch only the back wheels light up... i will get underneath and check for the front diff etc tomorrow... so do you think the sloppy backend would be the hicas??? sounds like it right??" - does the 4wd light come on when you start the car up? it should flick on for about 5 seconds, then go away when you start the ignition if it stays on, check your fuses, if it goes off, the 4wd system sounds like it's working properly, check the ATTESSA fluid tank in the boot, right hand side under the cover, opposite of the jack most 4wd skylines do actually light the wheels up on hard launches, you should have a torque meter on the left side of the dash, watch it, it should rise to round 30-50 when the back wheels are spinning, because it'll start spinning the fronts. If it doesn't, it means your 4wd isn't workin the way it should, check your front diff and front driveshaft are attached properly. And your definitely sure it's a GTS4? if it doesn't have the torque gauge in dash and has a boost gauge in it's place, sounds like it's either got a GTS-t dash or is a GTS-t

hahahaha that's hilarious, i heard the same thing except someone got hit in the face with it, got a fat lip and broke a tooth, could've been worse though I use the passenger side chassis rail with my breaker, but that's only because mine is on axle stands and I didn't want it moving, only took round 2-3 small cranks, i think it was loose by the first, but the other two helped undo the bolts then get a steering wheel puller or hamonic balancer puller from supercheap, they are round $20 don't use the pullers with two to three arms that lock round the pulley rings, they usually end up breaking the pulley, the supercheap one screws into the two holes on the inside of the balancer, then it has a large bolt which goes through the middle and pushes the pulley out while undoing the crank bolt

660cc should definitely be enough, weird what size are you amps? they shouldn't be pulling that much power down, hope your alternator isn't on the way out? see if you can borrow a 1.0 or 1.5 farad capacitor of a mate or someone to test it out, that could fix it, also check all your grounds, what size cable/fuse are you using from the battery?

get a car trailer and borrow a cheap $500 honda, they work very nicely, managed to kill 13 possums, 2 rabbits and something unknown within 30 minutes of driving on a rural road out here If you manage to hit a roo though, hit it with the passenger side of the car, because the honda will crumple it'll look cool though and you could brag to all your mates about it

haha true thanks man i thought it might be that, i was just worried it would make the car jump off it's jackstands will put it in tomorrow

After reinstalling my gearbox, clutch and engine The gearbox while in neutral, no gear selected, causes ths speedo to rise, like it thinks it's in first or reverse, because it starts redlining about 60k :S not too sure why that would be? It current has no driveshaft attached because the frotn is axle stands and i don't want it jumping off them in case it somehow is in gear :S Could it be that my pressure plate was tightened too much? or something similar to that? or that one of hte plugs on my gearbox isn't plugged in? so i could have the first plug mixed up with my reverse light plug? This is probably a pretty n00b problem, but yeah :S

I'd go the GTR, but not too sure if I'd be spending only $20 on one, because that'd be a cheaper one, probably a bit rough, imported as a Grade 3-3.5 from Japan then fixed up slightly. How much do GTiRs go for compared to GTRs over there? Over here in NZ, the GTiRs go from about 4-8k and the GTRS 22k and above The GTiRs are quite nice and fast, you can rollcage them and rally them, Nissan used to use in them in the group N wasn't it? Whereas the Skyline is a street/race car, both will do similar 0-100 times, round 4.9 for the GTiR and 4.8 for the Skyline, although I'm pretty sure when Nissan did those times they had a professional racing driving doing them on a very sticky track... You can't really use many parts from the FWD pulsars, apart from the body items, like replacing the ugly bulged vented hood with a stock hood, getting rid of hte top mount cooler and mounting a front mount one. But parts will be cheaper, not too much cheaper, but since it's a 4 cylinder, you won't have to spend much on the engine also being an sr20 you can get reliable power off the bottom end. What I'd do, is save up another 5-10k and buy a nicer condition and slightly more expensive, well looked after GTR Or even an R34 GTT? Have you ever thought about getting one of those? they are around the same price as the GTR I think? and a much newer model? or even an R33 GTS25t, sure you won't do the same 0-100 times without some mods, but you'll be in a safer ride and a lot newer model of car

yeah splitfires are good, but only if your coils are dying Also, if you don't have lots of money to spend, i'd look at wasted spark round $140-$160 for a complete setup and sell your old coils to fund it Parts needed: VN Coilpack or Buick V6 coilpack from the states round $60-$80 VL or VN commodore lead pack round $80 for 8mm eagles then wire it up to your old coilpack loom: Just make sure you label the wires before cutting them you cut the lead just after the ignitor, only on the 7 pin plug, leave the 3 pin, that is your timing and power plug with the black coil loop in this order Left to right when looking at ignitor: Ground, 6, 5, 4, 3, 2, 1 Connect wires 1/6 2/5/ 3/4 together and put one of each up to the top posts You can now cut the timing wire mentioned above and bridge it onto the 1/6 post When doing this, mark the front of the coils with the coil numbers, i scratched mine on with a screw driver because i was in a rush Now for the bottom posts: Take the power wire which is in the middle of the 3 point plug and bridge the power to each post on the bottom row of the coilpacks Then get your spark plugs, use the longest up front, all the way to the shortest for the firewall cylinder(6 i think? or is it 1) then mount the coilpack on the firewall, make sure no wires are out, maybe insulate the back of the coil or put heatshrink over the wires first Then plug it in, take the ground which you haven't touched on the 3 point plug and reground it(has a bolt holder ground thing on it from factory) Then make sure all coils and leads are in the right holes and start it up Should work perfectly if you have any missing, double check the wiring and cylinder leads

yeah i'm pretty sure the N1s didn't come with them for a cheaper option just got the GTS-t non-abs engine bay brakelines and master cylinder the masters are cheap round $70 finding the brake lines might be a little harder, or get some custom ones made up

would there be a way to use the 8 pot ones at the front and then adapt the GTR ones to the rear? so 8 pot front, 4 pot rear :S very tempted by it right now

oh actually, i just read the article, they are actually D2, as long as they are geniune D2 i'd buy them and they are in NZ, might have to give the guy an email

haha yeah they are cheap but i don't think i'd skimp on the most important factor in stopping your car

Booo, anotehr skyline bites the dust oh well guess it makes our ones rearer each time, i'm suprised how many are involved in accidents :S

yeah mine took 2 weeks to process the order, then 4 weeks to ship, i wasn't very happy, then got some engrish reply when I asked him why it was taking too long

Yeah i second what AD4M says Get rid of your old dual stage power steering and hicas, get an R33 Single stage pump(half the size of R32), bolt straight on and use an R33 belt

sounds like it could be on the of the older model, non dampner adjustable ones? if it is, they shoudl be all good, just make sure it's got Bilstein embedded on it and not any other brand, you could always see if there is a marking or serial number on it and check the number with Whiteline?