skybarge

Oh and Mavric, nice engine bay i fully rate that 10/10

yeah I'm down with the others and the high pressure clean basically make sure it's a nice hot day, open your bonnet, get your air compressor out, set to round 80-100psi, usually they come with a degreasing gun, put half water half degreaser into it, then use the nozzle to clean the engine bay, then let it sit for a few hours drying out, then use silicone spray on the engine/pipes makes it look nice and doesn't dry out or crack, that's what most car yards do as well, so if you are unsure, goto a car yard and ask to watch someone detail an engine bay or just take your car there, pay the money and get the interior, exterior and engine bay done at the same time, it won't be cheap though

yeah three points is very good classed as a 5-star i think(top of the line) although i think 4point alarms are coming out 3 point is generally: fuelpump, ignition and starter Although, bear in mind, most people won't bother screwing with an alarm, they'll just put it on a tow truck, its happened to a few of my friends cars and no one took down the number plate of the tow truck, because it looked like a simple parking violation as for looking at the installation guide - the wires are black on most 3 point alarms, so i doubt they'd be able to bypass them that fast it'd take them at least a few minutes or more to do it, probably rip out the membrane and bridge the wires, they'd need a wiring diagram for the car too in that case though and most thieves are after just a quick snatch and grab - i hate thieves!!!

yeah it shoudl handle it fine, but round 250kw+ it'll start to get a bit tired i think and could break but the price difference is a lot in some cases over a grand, so I'd say throw an RB20det box behind it it should last a while just don't put slicks on it and try to drag it :S it'll definitely blow...

Yeah that's another one Mongoose!!! totally forgot about them they do 4 and 5 star rated alarms quite cheap as well I think you should go one of them, rather than one of the easy to bypass Pager alarms from ebay or wherever...it's your car though, so if you don't care about it too much, skimp out on a cheapie

yeah man, there are a few posts in here if you do a search I've bought a grille off them, total rip off paid $200, didn't look anything like the photo!!!! the photo was plastic and with mesh in behind, i got some fibreglass piece of crap that didn't fit at all i don't recommend them at all, infact I think there should be a sticky put up on this forum somewhere, maybe under Traders, saying not to buy from them!!!

hmmm, i think the one with the mini LCD strip(two lines 16x2) might be going into a laptop, then through serial to it. If it is, wicked i've got a custom car PC I'm building and wouldn't mind doing that, although I could just display my stats on my 8" LCD i guess, but having the watertemp under the speedo like that looks awesome

that is nice as there must be a way to integrate it into a 4x16 LCD though? then put that in the dash for cheaper? might have to read that RX7 site for some hacks...

+4 on the universal seals They look better in my opinion, the standard nissan ones seem to fall off or peel back at high speed I lost part of my rear one, and then found it under my wheel scratched to pieces, i'm going 1 piece generic, it'll just look much cleaner than the 7 piece top seals the R32s have :S

haha crazy, you actually like the HICAS? It feels scary, kind of like going round a corner in an office chair!!! with it removed, i can get the car into controlled sideways drifts, it helps with cornering as well, i think replacing the stock suspension with coilovers and lowering as much as I have would affect the HICAS as well As for the ABS controlling the 4wd, i thought that was proven wrong in another thread? the one with the guy taking his ABS all out, then wondering why his 4wd light was on, then finding out it was a disconnected switch :S But yeah, I'd screw the hicas off, keep the ABS if it's a street car track car, biff it

haha good work you even left the gearbox in the car, i'm too lazy for that, i just rip everything out or if i have access to a hoist, drop it all out the bottom

how much are you looking at spending? the dynatrons aren't that expensive, i think you can get the base model 4-5 star starting at $275, then add on installation all black wiring, goes with turbo timer, not much else, but a really really reliable and good alarm or an AVS just make sure when you do get it, you don't post what you've got up here and don't put any stickers on the car saying what it is, especially if it's a cheap ebay style alarm

i reckon, get some component speakers for the front, 2-way won't really cut it :S get rid of the rears, put the 2 channels of the amp into the fronts, then bridge the other channel into the sub put grilles over the speaker holes left by the gap of the rear speakers and let the bass from the sub flow through

THat is sketchy as, sounds like they didn't prep it or primer it, if they did it properly the paint wouldn't flake off like that :S

hey man, parts needed: VN Coilpack(the square type one, or the round, i've got the squarer one, because it looks better against my firewall) VL set of sparkleads, shouldn't be too much or mix and match your own just get the NGK or Eagle ones from supercheap use a VN coilpack(Block of three coils with 2 spark leads on each side) they are round $60-80 new i think? try the local holden dealer sell your old coils for whatever yuo get for them, usually $20 each or so(here in NZ anyway, not much because they are poo) keep the coil loom, cut the wires at the end, label them all though for each cylinder, then wire them up, i think it goes 1/6(first coil 2/5(second coil) 3/6(third coil) It'll make it dead easy to change sparkies as well I think if you want to use the original VL coilpack, you'd need some way of firing it? because it's dizzy standard isn't it? not sure if an ignitor would work in that sense, although it could do

mines still there, thought they might have used a cargo plane and flow it over the ditch, phew, that was lucky

haha yeah, they were just guess probably quite a bit off, i weigh things with my hands I'll have to do a proper after weight at the weight station, just need to get my car fully running before I do, but yeah 1416kg before, have to see what it is afterwards

I don't like the look of it either R35 style front, RX8 style rear!!! in 4-door yuck they should just make a 2-door EVO and style it differently, bet it'll still sound like a sewing machine or tractor like most mitsi's

nah man it's just the GTRs i think my R32 GTSt and GTS4 don't R33's done either, they do have a solanoid you can put a switch on though and run higher boost at lower rpms(33s have a controller to run 7psi at below 4000 i think it is, then switch to 10psi or whatever it is standard) you could also look out for a bleed tap, there is an article in the DIY section i think about a ball valve type bleed valve, which is meant to be an excellent controller and a lot of people have thrown away(well sold) there electronic ones and replaced it with the tap, it only costs round $22 as well

oh and final item: upgrade to a GTR, get a non-compliable one, strip for parts, keep: Engine, drivetrain, exhaust, gearbox crossmember and rear diff and maybe brakes if you can be bothered sell the rest for parts then sell your engine, diff, gearbox etc and swap it over or build up an RB30 and replace the poxy RB20, because it's pretty bad :S mine does a timed 7.5sec 0-100 on stock everything my GTS-t does a 6.25 0-100 on stock everything!!!

here's some ideas, i've got one as well they are pretty heavy, try turn the 4wd fuse off and step it out, compared to me GTS-t, it feels way way heavier :S first things to do: GTS4 - weighs somewhere round 1420kg, mine was just under, so go weigh yours at a station if you can be bothered GTS-t - weighs round 1280kg, so the GTS4 is an extra 140kg standard :S Hicas removal bar: $100 from ebay - go for the chromoly one, weighs round 0.5kg, I took out the old bar, weights like 7-10kg!!! then stripped it of all the steel lines to the front(another 1kg - although you could leave them in for future fuel lines if you wanted to) hicas solanoid in the front: another 5-10kg, can't remember the exact weight, but you'll remove roughly round 25-30kg after removing all hicas gear but leaving the rear hicas computer, because i think it also controls other things and if you unplug it, the steering goes heavy - 25-30kg seats - replace the front seats with race style seats, each seat is about 20-25kg? replace with 7kg or less fibreglass ones, custom rails will be needed for this though, so roughly saving round 36kg in the seats - 36kg roughly, more or less depending on seats front guards - not really needed, i put some flared 50mm ones in the front, because they were cheap and I want a bigger dish basically saves about 2kg at the most bonnet - carbon or fibreglass, stock weighs somewhere round 30kg, get rid of it, replace with carbon or fibreglass, mine fibreglass one is 5kg and damn light, uses factory bonnet catch too bootlid - weighs about 15kg, not too bad, but there are fibreglass ones round, here in NZ racepro do them for $450NZD, they weigh about 5kg as well, not bad aircon - you might need it, but if you don't get rid of it, compressor 8kg, radiator up front round 3 or so all other lines and gear 5 so that's round 16kg - living here in NZ, i don't need it, apart from in Winter when it frosts over, but then i just take out the missus car, and in summer if the temps get up too much, just open up both windows sound deadening - round 50kg inside teh cabin, do this only if you want to hear gravel and the exhaust loudly I'm removing mine with dry ice, but replacing it with lighter dynamat, so in the end i'll only be saving round 15-20kg at the most, it'll be worth it though that'll get your round to the weight of the GTS-t of slightly less round 1251, but that's all a guessimate, as I'm doing all the weights off the top of my head if you are upgrading the wheels, go Rays, Works and genuine R32 GTR wheels, you can find them cheap enough second hand and they weight a lot less than bling no name brand wheels, when i had my old GTR mags, i used to be able to pick them up and throw them round with one hand, they weighed very little, the tyre weighed more than the mag itself!!! Spare tyre - absolutely useless on a GTS4 anyway once you blow a wheel(your likely to screw up the 4wd system, unless you pull the fuse, move the space saver to the front then drive slowly in Rwd mode to the nearest station, they weigh a bit, get rid of it and get a can of tyre foam and put it in your glovebox those are most of the easy options: to go even more hardcore: door skins save round 10kg a side, fibreglass $750 each from Racepro here - 20kg coilovers - not much difference, mine are slightly lighter, get some anyway for the cool factor and drop the car remove all stereo gear, factory amps and speakers and sub - will save you round 10kg(not worth it in my opinion, i like my stereo) swaybars - the factory ones are solid, go for some whiteline alloy ones, it'll help your handling a lot as well ABS - drop the ABS if you have it, get some custom lines built up to bypass the system and remove the ABS sensors off the wheels and the main unit up the front Lexan windows - very pricey, may not be legal depending on which state you want that should drop you below the 1200kg mark, you could go lower depending on how much you wanted to spend, but it'd make the car overall less safer, unless you caged it and wanted to make it a drag car, then you could remove the rear seats - i don't see anything bad about not having rear seats, means you can turn down more people when they ask for rides

+1 for smoking in the cabin if it was fuel related, it'd be under the car that is so hot man I'd cry if that was my car, then stab some people

total ripoff for $250 don't trust CarMate, their customer service is shocking and their goods are even worse apart from that, you won't be able to use that HID in your current lights if they are the non-xenon ones, they'll create too much glare, the only way round that is to retrofit some projectors from a proper HID car or sell those lights and buy proper R34 HIDs, but expect to pay a bit for them($700+) if they are HID and the balast was basically cut and removed when complianced(not here in NZ luckily ) then get 6500k bulbs+ballast, preferably Phillips or Hella, just make sure when you reinstall them, they should have autobalancers i think? althuogh i'm not totally sure on the R34s, but i know most cars with HIDs do, to stop you from blinding people while going uphill, round corners and over bumps

whoops, forgot to put a link: Here's the kit just down from my one: http://www.nitrousdirect.com/nitrous/index...product_id=1787 I got this kit, except with different nitrous bottle and circular solanoids, + dual purge, it works well and should suit your needs another benefit as well for you: In turbo applications, turbo lag is completely eliminated with the addition of a nitrous system. Both turbo and superchargers compress the incoming air, thus heating it. With the injection of nitrous, a tremendous intercooling effect reduces intake charge temperatures by 75 degrees or more. Boost is usually increased as well, adding even more power. It'll probably be close to a grand installed and ready to run, plus i think round 150 to fill? maybe more? so I suggest looking at teh GCG high flows or the other high flow section in the group buys and getting maybe a couple of high flows, or do a search for N1 Turbos(r33-r34) as they should get you a lot more power than the Nitrous kit itself and you'd be able to use them on the street although bear in mind with both upgrades - your fuelpump and clutch will probably wear out sooner, so might need to save to upgrade those and with the N1 turbos while you can get an FPR and crank the fuel pressure up, your better off getting injectors and a chipped ECU or PowerFC

haha too true, i forgot about the whole multiple throttle bodies thing only ever having GTS-ts and 4s :S but yeah, nitrous wet shot, in the rubber end where the cooler pipe connects to the plenum, or even drill a hole in the metal piping and put it in there and gasket it in, either way it should be fine with a low shot, for a higher shot say above 90hp talk to RIPS, he does them all the time, it's all about the right sparkplugs, timing,fuelling and tuning - as for adding another injector in, don't do it it's dangerous and could catch fire, that's for dry shots, you won't need to do that, wet shots have both fuel/nitrous in one shot, it mixes them through different jets and works well - "Off topic, wonder if the heat caused by the extra 100hp would be enough to drop a turbine wheel off… even at a 1bar boost limit.- nah it will be fine it won't push the turbo any harder and nitrous is a cooler it's freezing :S it basically cools your engine when you insert it, some people actually use kits with NO2 or CO2 to chill their intercoolers - nah, past the throttle plate on a GTR would be the head of the engine itself? well the small spacer? that's only for direct port, which is pretty good, it uses your stock injectors and they plug into the ports, which gives you extreme control over the lean/richness of the shot, only problem with that is, you can't go taht small, think 200hp is the minimum :S, I'd say go wet shot, NItrous Direct, NOS, or Zex kit, that computer controlled kit might be worth checking out and if you are really worried maybe bump up your fuel pressure every so slightly, just so none of your cylinders lean out