skybarge

I think it's not really the transformer packs that make the difference, it's the actual bulbs, go for round 6500k, because any lower turns nearly yellow, any higher turns blue, i had 12k in mine, was purple, but didn't have a very good output(still better than stock halogen)

get round a 50-100 shot wet kit, mount the nozzle just before the throttle body in the silicone which joins it(or rubber as stock) the fuelpump should be ok if the rest of your engine is stock basically have a read of a few nitrous sites, nitrous direct etc only dry kits need bigger injectors or even more flow from the current ones, steer clear of them, dry kits are the ones which require seperate fuel. Wet kits usually take fuel from the fuel feed line, if you have a stock engine the fuelpump won't be under much stress and is pretty new, so you can use it on that, if not, consider a bosch swimmer pump or an 044 external. when you install it make sure you retard the timing about 5 degrees, go for two range colder plugs, and test it on a dyno first!!! before taking it to the drag strip I know nitrous direct do a nice kit for round $800NZD, for 50-190hp, comes with jets upto 95hp and a twin purge valve for that price just be careful, if you don't know what you are doing, don't do it just up the boost on the turbos or remove the restrictor in the boost lines and move from round 0.6bar to 1bar...

in that case, i'd probably spend an extra 100-200 on one and get one of the JVC ones, even without a warranty off Ebay, they work well and look a lot better

all the hicas gear from front solanoids to rear and lines weighs i dunno bought 25kg at the most i guess? maybe 20kg? i've removed mine + lines, keep the rear computer, beucase otherwise it'll make your steering heavy, you can use skyline non-hicas or 180sx boss kits once the hicas has gone i got mine for $110NZD including boss kit and wheel, nismo look a like and it's fine for now

I just finished Farcry(old i know but good) so now I'm onto Company of Heroes with DX10 patch, looks alright but it's bloody hard just finished C&C3 as well, was pretty good

I recommend buying it yourself and giving it to him, otherwise he'll try charge you a ridiculous rate, especially not knowing what to use on an automotive water gasket :S that's pretty slack for any mechanic Selleys is round $15 CRC round $9.95, both do a good job

hey man, it's easy as goto a servo and look for Selleys Windscreen sealant or Marine Sealant either clear or black, both are fine, that is what people use for waterpump seals, it's basically a silicone based sealant, put round 2-3mm round the place where the gasket usually goes, make sure it's all even, then smush it together if you can't find the Selleys stuff, try CRC Gasket maker, it's in most Repco/Supercheap stores, it's a tad more expensive than the Selleys stuff, but after you've done your waterpump you can use it on your throttle body, AAC and inlet manifold i just did when i cleaned mine out, made my idle a lot better than it was CRC = http://www.crc.co.nz/item_prod.asp?pid=474 Selleys = http://www.selleys.com.au/Selleys-Windscre...nt/default.aspx

Yo Dave, what year is your car again? Mines an 89, send me photos of the back of your speedo, i'll check if it's the same as mine, I could get you one off trademe over here and send it over? You could use a GTS4 one, just the speedo bit, you don't need the RPM bit?

You could just make your own? they take about 5 minutes to make if you are experienced a bit longer if you aren't tools needed: soldering iron, crimps also needed: length of 12v automotive wire($2 from bunnings or supercheap) fuse holder or old broken fuse(you can can solder the wires straight to each end rocker switch($5 from dick smith or cheaper missile style off ebay) basically just solder two strips of wire, how long you require to reach the switch, one to each end of the 4wd/ABS fuse prong in the kick panel fuse box then solder the other two ends to the end of the rocker switch install it in a nice reachable location then everytime yuo want to go RWD, make the car come to a complete stop, flick the switch and let the fun begin Total cost round $8 if you have all the tools less if you can get discounts or have parts lying round like me

whoops, the models i specified are JVC don't buy any other touchscreen double din etc, off ebay, they are rubbish , buy a brand name unit only

i think he means the AVX11 on Ebay, it's round $600 i think, or the AVX33 it's round $800, of course no warranty in the country if you buy from the US, but i guess it beats paying $1200 in NZ for teh AVX11 and $1800 for the AVX33 :S

I would say do what VB says above, go for the RB30 block, it's going into a GTT right? use a RB30 block, give it a general freshen up: hone the cylinders if needed, get the crank reground if needed and renitrided, put in new ACL race bearings, a DOHC oilpump, maybe a baffled sump(not really needed though), then upgrade your valve springs, get the cams you wanted and get the d-jetro kit for the PFC or the Q45 AFM and get the plenum you wanted or just leave it as is, if you are getting a GTR no point spending money, which you won't get back if you decide to sell and upgrade later on

I think you'd be pushing it to be honest a lot of people have managed that, but an R32 GTR fuel pump is at best 13 years old, most are round 16-17 years You'd be better off either buying a bosch fuel pump and modifying the cradle(guide in the DIY section) or if your budget doesn't stretch that far, go for a 255lph Walbro off ebay, they bolt straight in and are alright for someone on a small budget

Totally awesome, can't wait to see this finished I might get you to put me down for a pair of guards thinking about converting to the stagea side :S

damn that is one crazy but nice job any news on getting copies of the front guards?

Yeah, just after the throttle body is perfect you can either use the stock one, or the SSQV ones come in plumb back, as do the Greddy-R ones

yeah they do line up the tops only, i've tried using my GTS-4/GTR coilovers on my T, the difference is in the rear diff, although if you put in a GTR rear diff + cradle, they'd bolt up fine all round

yeah, i'd say they are alright for what they are, cheap and reliable, much better than standard if you've upgraded your engine a bit although i ended up selling mine and buying a "240sx 55mm thick core" one from the US, it was about $80 cheaper overall, although one of the inlet pipes is on a different side, but that doesn;'t bother me, i'm doing custom radiator piping with stainless and silicone, and tapping two holes one for the factory thermostat, the other for a thermoswitch, because with the new radiator my old fan doesn't fit too big but it all lines up fine, the radiator drops into the holes, i reckon check it out, but in the end it'll cost about the same and probably only give marginally extra cooling

hey Ronin, Yeah, i've noticed that :S I took them apart yesterday, due to it being a jap import the US guys have welded splitters in the middle top of each light :S, i guess to not blind other drivers, so I'll cut them out and it hopefully should restore the lighting to a good standard, Also noticed that the R32 headlight glass sucks I'll have to either get it ground down, to make it all smooth or go PVC, although I'd prefer to keep it original looking

looking damn awesome man that is nice Been waiting a while for pics Just sourced my retrofit projectors, out of a J30 infinity(some american car, think it's the equivilant of a Q45 over here, dual projectors, one with cutoff shroud inbuilt and autolevelling can't wait to finish mine off Top effort on yours though are you still working on the clear indicators? I've just bought a set of d-speed ones for mine, but i've done what you did, i was going to source side markers to replace the orange in the clear plastic, but haven't found the right size fit yet

PM Sent

your wiring shouldn't need to be extended, mine didn't need to and it was an R32 GTS-t coupe

You could also do round 260kph kits or 240kph maybe? just add the numbers on after the 180? as I know my speedo goes way past the 180kph on the track

damn, i just stumbled upon this too, damnit i saw the 33 one a while back they look awesome I've got a GTS4 :S so same dials as GTS-t except the left hand side has a torque splitter in place of the boost guage(like GTR) are you able to do one for me in black?

yeah, I have used the selleys kwik stick on mine although, you can also go down to your local fabric place and get contact adhesive, or bunnings sells it for $15 in the paint section, works very well and the coat is so thin you won't notice