skybarge

There's your answer he's got a GTS4 they launch very nicely, although not quite as good as a GTR

yeah I love my G-Tech picked it up 2 years ago for $200NZ, the pro model and can be logged into my computer for datalogging and laptimes it's great picks up drag times down the split second, as for the reaching 100k faster than the speedo, yeah mine does that on my old car, on my newer one it reaches 100k after :S Probably the good old nissan factory error in their speedo, i think its +- round 5km or so Also tried it out on my partners corolla 0-100 in 9 seconds :S she'd kill me if she saw her hard I was revving the old granny mobile

I'd say launch it round 4500-5000rpm, and feather the clutch try to get as little wheel spin as possible

hasn't this guy gone off the forums now since July when he screwed those people over int he Group buy for LEDs/Dash covers?

It shouldn't do, that's strange, unless you've accidentally bumped off one of the hoses that connects upto the intake pipe? check the solanoid still has all it's vacuum lines attached otherwise you could be really overboosting your turbos :S

Crap man that is pretty shocking, I got a 6.5 without trying in my old R32 GTS-t, auto too :S with crap rubber on the front, average rubber on the rear, 3" rage exhaust(no cat), repco pod filter(crap) and a chipped ECU, everything else was standard I just slapped it in from N - D about 5000rpm(yeah i know bad for the driveline, oh well) I'll test out my manual GTS-t pretty soon, just waiting on getting it running, I was using a G-tech Pro R on the runs, it's an excellent device, what are you using?

damn!! if that was my car and I saw someone in dealer plates driving it, I'd seriously think about smashing into them, then calling the police Hope you get it back in one piece, it looks promising that people have seen it and it hasn't been stripped, even if you do get it back though, it doesn't really feel like the same car mine didn't after it got broken into it just feels violated

yeah man those should fit haven't seen the pics but 35+ offset, should be fine As long as they are 5x114.3 The R34 non turbos are 5 studs as opposed to the R33 and R32 models, the R34 non turbos also come with really bad looking mags, like this: or this:

if any of you guys have a compressor and want to try it it's not that hard just buy a HVLP gun, cost round $50 from ebay, but yeah as said above, you screw it up and a lot of sanding is involved I did mine in black, it showed up all the dents :S so i need to go reprep it Basically what's involved is: wax and grease remover, sand back to bottom coat or strip to baremetal if you want to go hardout, if you goto baremetal you'll need an etch primer first so you can get a good coat, i went: 300 grit down to baremetal, then etch primer, sand back to 400 grit, then primer, then guide coat, sand and block back to 400 grit again, then primer again, then sand to 600 grit spray with base coat, wait 5-10 minutes depending on the paint, spray again, wait, spray again, wait spray again. Then wait for it to dry, leave for about a week so you can do the wet sanding when the paint is properly hard, i went from 800 grit for heaps of orange peel, down to 1200grit, to 2000 grit, then buffed it up, it came up so shiney, but i wanted more, that's why I'm stuffed it I forgot to use the wax and grease remover and the clear screwed the paint 2 weeks work down the drain I'm going to be doing it again soon though, total cost for the first job $200 including 4L primer, 4L thinner, 4L basecoat, 2L clear all Dulon cheap stuff, high gloss black too, so i didn't really need the clear, I'll post up a DIY in the next few weeks when I start redoing it That linolium rust proof stuff is funny as, I know a guy here has used house paint on his, cost him $50 as well and he rolled it on, put about 4 coats on then sanded it, it was only a track car, but it looks pretty funky now

Triple or twin air horn dude Works a charm, get one of the PIA FIAMM ones or whatever they are, I let people who piss me off know about it Also if your mate is under the bonnet, it scares the hell out of them

yeah man shove it in there

+2 on Adriano I've only done a 20det, but yeah You'll need a few tools, clamps, piston ring clamp(easy to buy from ripco or stupidcheap), torque wrenchs, various sockets, razor blades basically strip the block down, take the crank, clutch, flywheel and harmonic balancer to an engine shop, get then to grind and balance it for you(just a light grind, it's already nitrided from factory so you don't want to weaken it) or get a heavy grind and a nitride to make it even stronger, think the nitriding cost me $150 when i had it done here in NZ, balancing $350 get the block acid dipped, then honed if needed, shouldn't be too much, about $120 for the hone(at $20 per cylinder, might get it less) $65 for an acid dip then use follow the engine manual procedures on putting everything back in with the correct torque settings and so on, Should take you a weekend or less to put it back together and you'll have a feeling that you've accomplished something, also skim the block so it's flat, and the head, so when you mate them together the seal will be perfect I'd suggest while you have it apart as well, repaint the engine block, just a nice grey or black and replace the frost plugs, clean the sump and respray it in black engine enamel and remove all old gasket, put new gasket on, I reckon just go for it, if you are really worried buy an old RB30 or RB20e for like $50 and just pull it apart, then put it back together for fun or even an old 4 cylinder as cheap as you can get

i'd go for the exedy HD with uprated pressure plate, as you only want 200kw(at wheels i presume) so yeah, go for that, it'll slip nicely and shouldn't squeal the tyres or take any getting used too

he means R33 GTS4 actually, i just did a search of his posts I'd say pretty slow say low 8 seconds, being it's a 2.5L non turbo, maybe a high 7 second, basically a lot slower than the turbo 2.0L R32s, because it's putting out way less power and weights a lot more

do you mean the GTS-4 as in the 4wd turbo? because that's round 7.2 auto and about 6.7 manual the GTS non turbo 4 door though would do it in round a low 8 i think, slower for an auto though

Hey man, Not too sure, the only ones near you that would've come otu with RB30s would have been sold in the middle east in R31s and Nissan patrols(the ones on youtube doing the drifts) apart from that, unless someone has one locally, maybe buying one off ebay australia and getting it shipped over, they usually go for about 50-200AUD and you could even get the head removed, so it's just a bare block to save on freight costs

instead of using an RB20 crank, use 2x SR20det cranks, cut one cylinder off each and weld them together, it'll allow you to rev upto round 13000rpm...

yep 2x 1gb connections straight to the main ISP, it's a university, so we need large amounts of data, all the students are capped, me being in the IT dept though uncapped, really good for games too

Don't try carmate they are useless Try Topstage maybe or see if Massa have what you want - if Massa do you might need to find a converter, although they speak english slightly

looks like a mazda 3 backend followed by a cross between a citroen and a XR6t front, totally sick remove it, it hurts my eyes

Yeah I'd go for the S15 wheel, they are much nicer, just make sure you disconnect the positive terminal and discharge it before removing it, or it could hurt you, and definitely don't sit on a bucket with one in it

yeah, sell your bits off to make it into a GTS-t, you'll need RWD gearbox, remove the halfshafts and possibly get the GTS-t front subframe if you wanted to go that far It's a waste of time, all the ATTESSA gear will still be mostly in it and make it heavy still, sell up and get a GTS-t I think

I just wound them all up the the max height, then counted the number of turns down that I took them, the car looks pretty even to me, although it needs to go a bit higher, I keep getting stuck on things

oh and I'm using 98RON so you might want to see if you can get some better petrol, then once that happens, reset the ECU(remove positive from battery, then put foot on the brake for a few seconds), then try it hopefully it gets better, post up your new scores