skybarge

Yeah I'm pretty sure they are illegal on autos now as well At least here in NZ they are, after some preggo lady got run over by a 4wd which mounted the curb, Especially if you are putting it on an older R32 skyline, the starter inhibitors sometimes break down, mine did, I used to be able to start it in gear which didn't sound good at all

Use the supercheap replacement wiper/blades, they are about $15 each with new wiper and arm Then get the elbow which attachs via a 10-12mm bolt to the car and sand it, paint it black to match and looks better than new You can even go carbon fibre style blades, which look ok on a red car, but crap on most other coloured cars

If it's non projector style, hopefully they are N1 GTR, otherwsie you might not have them They come standard on all bug-eye, see on the left hand side of that photo? there are two taps, if you don't have them, you might need to make them

yeah man those are exactly the ones I mean I've got them in my: side markers, side indicators and park lights and some bayonet style in my: normal indicators, rear indicators and brake lights They run at an extremely low wattage, think its 0.5w per brake bulb, even less for the indicator bulbs, And apart from the fact I need to wire in some resistors, because my indicators think i've blown a fuse and flash like 5 times a second, they look mint You can also just leave your park/rear brake lights on overnight or for a few days, which is helpful if you ever need to park it on a street and they battery won't run out

yeah illegal and look like crap go for some ultra white - LED parkers instead they look way way nicer

Is the boost controller tee'd into the actuator and the return line to the inlet somewhere? if so yeah, should be fine just block that other line off, you'll be losing power from it otherwise

weird :S They really wouldnt' sell it? Dextron III or Castrol ATF fluid usually does the trick or anything down at the local Servo, I've used Caltex, BP, Shell, nothing has ever happened to my pump, i think they are just pulling your leg...

yeah man as above fully worth it Get some dynamat extreme or b-quiet then put a layer behind where the speaker sits, then rip off the factory plastic, get all th sticky stuff off with meths then cover the whole door, all the wholes, cut out the part where the speaker will go(cut it in triangles from the inside of the circle, so not just cutting round it, so make about 10 cuts from the centre to the outer diameter of the speaker You'll be left with triangle strips, leave those in, put the speaker in and you'll really really notice the different I'll try get pics too

I'd have to agree with 2GU UP and add my 2 cents It is illegal to modify a car with airbags, in Australia, NZ, Japan, US and other countries. It's illegal to modify for a reason, safety. I think you should sell your skyline and go buy a honda with no airbags, then you can have your steering wheel. Otherwise just put up with it, get it covered or go out and buy a momo airbag wheel, they cost a bit more, but you need one

whoops, mines in an R32 GTS4 but the same sort of setup should work in yours Just a different centre console design

Yeah FC Datalogit works, check the RX7 forums, they have some cool hacks and guides on how to make the serial cable I'm in the same boat as you, well kind of, I hate the whole idea of a laptop in the car, I'd rather go cheaper proper PC I'm creating mine at the moment Total cost: Motherboard, Harddrive, other pieces free 12v Auto switching car power supply 90w(enough to run the VIA low power systems) $80 serial to USB converter for datalogit/consult $7 consult connector(For now till PowerFC) $70 8" Flipdown monitor 1200x800 res(cheaper than a fixed monitor) $120 mini mouse $10 flexible keyboard $5 Bluetooth adapter $5 for phone, so i can use it handsfree if I need to, but i doubt i ever will $292NZD(cheaper in AUD) How much is your laptop worth? if it's just a throw away cheapo, sell it for as much as you can and get a VIA CPU and motherboard off Ebay, cheap as. I've basically created an aluminium shroud where the normal stereo and AC sits, I'm going to mount the screen, a few USB ports and a lighter socket in there relocating the headunit to where teh factory lighter socket and pocket sits(DVD headunit, with DTS dolby and a few other things, JVC DV9606 i think I've got a 8cm BLue LED quiet fan from a previous computer that I'll be using to cool the power supply, the rest of it stays pretty cool already Specs, nothing too flash: VIA 1ghz CPU 256mb RAM 2gb HDD(Op system only, using 80gb portable for music and movies if need be) Network card 100mb Tiny motherboard, the size of a 1DIN slot 8" screen is the size of 2 DINs MOving the AC controller into the centre console storage, so under the LID with some smooth wiring Will have a 5.1 Jazz PC sound decoder with digital in powered by the power supply hidden in teh glove box, takse up about half the glovebox, but looks cool with flashy lights and won't be seen during normal driving, only for show So the PC goes into the headunit AUX In, the headunit goes to digital optical to the DTS decoder, The decoder goes to a 5 channel amp, for my 6.5" front comps(kappa infinity), 5.25" JVC Centres(not too bad, just for fill), 6x9" JVCs in the rear, then a D-class amp powers my JVC 12" sub in custom box The 5 channel amp will be mounted behind the PC in the centre console too and the rear amp will be hidden in the boot. I like hiding stuff. For the OS I'm using WinXP but a much smaller version to cut back load times, it'll be round 500mb big in total, so it'll take round 10 sec to boot or so, at the moment with no OS, it boots to the "Cannot boot" screen in about 2 sec so it's nice and fast. Other options for the future will be GPS and wireless, if i can be bothered If you didn't want to go that crazy, you'd need a lighter socket to match the volts and amps of your current DC adapter, a small screen to mount somehwere, maybe a 7-8" single din that folds out, you can get touchscreen, but they are quite expensive, and you'd need a way of putting the PC sound into the stereo, if you've got one with AUX in already, then it'll be easy

have you got an external wastegate? if so, block it off, it not, plug that pipe back into the inlet or plenum, there should be another line for it :S The guy above is right, you could overboost without it connected :S And not in the cool way like in the movies The line basically builds up pressure and a certain PSI, if it's R32 - round 9-12psi it opens the wastegate up so your engine doesn't recieve too much boost :S

damn it should've come with this: http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/HID-fuse-re...bayphotohosting Or you could cut that big plug off the HID harness, and put two spade terminals on it, then plug those directly into the H3, just make sure you have the polarity right or you'll fry the ballasts :S

no

Take it to your nearest Briggs and Straton shop, they should be able to fix it

damn, you're over the GTR? I've read all the posts in that section, but didn't think I should comment, because i've had a GTS-t off the road for 2.5 years and a GTS4 off the road for 6 months send the GTR over here to NZ and I'll get it up and running On another note, what sort of bulbs does the Supra have? because where the harness is circled above, I had a connector plugging into that plug that turned it into H4 and H1 for my skyline

I'd go for a catch can if i was you, pull out stubs where the current pipes connect to, then get two new screw in fittings, can't remember the size, maybe just over 1/2" BSP? you'll have to check, block the PCV valve off with a blanking screw and remove it from the manifold Then mount the catch can somewhere in the engine bay and run two lines to it That way you'll be setup for any track work and driving on the street(incase you somehow lose your oil through the breathers... I think for track(well at least in NZ) your catch can must be equal or greater than your engine, for street I used to just use a 1L one, never had any problems The coke bottle trick also works, but it's terrible ghetto and I'm sure a cop would defect you for it

Hey, just wondering if you are dead cert about the coilpacks? I have a 92 series 2 facelift and an 89, same coilpacks :S you are right about the cam timing cover though that's definitely changed

I'm using a Craig Davies 16" drag racing fan flows 3800CFM with a 90C Degree thermoswitch cost me $280 for the fan and switch All mounted on a 55mm thick 180SX radiator with custom top pipe, works fine keeps the temps down, I even drove my car without the fan wired up, round 30 minutes and it never hit over 1/2 way on the temp chart :S Oh and it does have a bit more go it's not dragging like it used to, but that's because I stripped the aircon as well i thinK total gain from the fan would be in the area of round 5hp i think

That was good I was reading the comments and someone said it was a 20B(yeah right it wasn't) then accidentally did a search on a 20b skyline, sick found a R33 20B, just sounded so wrong...

Damn i should've done all this in one post Here's me testing some in the stock housing with projector style round headlights: 12000k purple - so not bright, best is 4300 or so, but that'll be a lot brighter than these These are what it looks like to oncoming drivers, after I'd angled them downwards to stop it: I reckon sell them on another forum, maybe NS.com to someone that doesn't know about HID kits

did it come with another wiring harness as well? usually the kits come with a plug from ballast to harness, comes with two plugs black and red plug them into your low beam and ground plugs and away you blind

Um you probably won't be able to see at night with them installed either if it's a plug and play kit in a halogen housing? Sorry to say dude, but you'll be blinding almost everyone on the road Also if someone hits you you won't get any insurance because you'll have illegal lights :S hmmm Solution to the problem, get the GTR running from the other thread Or get one fo the newer supra HID projectors off Ebay and retrofit it :sorcerer:

Go for a custom HID fit, Ronin here has done one I fully agree with everythin MANWHORE says I'm doing one at the moment, using twin FX45 bi-xenons, I'm just trying to work out fitment issues and a shroud Then trying to make a clear headlight cover out of perspex, because my current one is the glass crapper with the lines through it Do a search on "HID conversion" on the search button you'll find it. If you do go for the HID kit, you'll notice how crap it is, especially in the factory nissan projector lense, it'll focus the light all in one spot and scatter the rest

no i don't think it locks, you'll find that if you pull the ECu or sensor, it'll start crabbing :S Jack it up, remove the ecu and then try pushign the wheels, you'll see they will move slightly :S