skybarge

Haha yeah, most of the M-spec 32's have them but most get removed due to front bar upgrade, accident or intercooler install Basically they pop down at over 70kph, try it you'll see the down button glow green and if you look to the front of the car it'll be fully extended the buttons are only there to clean it, as soon as you start driving it'll fold up :S

+1 on looking stupid They only really suit older cars, RX3s and 4s and Datsuns Get a nice pillar mount, get three nice Apexi gauges and be done with it

Yeah I agree with doing a lot of the work yourself too Ask the painter for tips Get them to find all the dents on your car, especially pinhole and take care of them Then ask him what grade of sandpaper and what level to sand it down to, I bought a Dual action rotary air sander for mine for $90 and some paper I think it went 400grit, just to get the shine off the paint and in some cases down to baremetal, but that'll involve a bit more prep Then he'll primer if, if you don't feel confident doing it yourself, a couple of coats, then a guide coat, you sand back the guide coat to look for anymore dents, then he primers it again, you sand the primer back to round 600grit Then he'll spray it in his booth a few times, then let him colour sand and buff it!!! Also depending on the paint, if you are using standard laquer enamel it'll need a few coats of clear over the top, I find that getting the original paint colour sanded, then spraying over the colour sanded coat, then sanding the clear, and buffing it brings out a very very flat finish free of orange peel For that kind of job, over here I was quoted $1200, which isn't bad(doorjams and exterior of car(not engine bay or boot bay, because I did them myself in chassis black) It'll take round 2 weeks for them to do, basically a few hours each spray, but you'll be doing the labour, so check what times they are open, and either sand it down there, or if it runs, drive it to yours and spend your time sanding, do a few hours a day, i'd say 3-4 hours a night if you are workng full time

Looking totally awesome man keep up the good work I think I'd do exactly the same as you if I crash, as long as the engines ok You going to go back for the old colour? or a custom colour?

bolts straight in, can use your old RWD gearbox swap the engine loom over from the old car, the fuelpump and everything in the engine bay THe gearbox will hold, but might get a bit crunchy with that much power through it You'll find that it'll pull high - mid 12s straight off the bat, the only issue is that you will probably end up like your mate(in a tree) So if you do it, take it easy...

hahahaha, it sounds liek you've blocked the BOV return line to get the fluttering turbo sound :S that will make your car stall man, on stock BOV, it'll put air through the AFM backwards and cause it to stall That's why you steering and brakes went all heavy, because your engine was idling so low or died because of it I say, put another bottle cap in, drain your radiator, put clean water in and a bit of coffee put some sugar in if you want, rev to 9000rpm and you'll have a nice espresso maker for any ricers that might be driving at the time... Or take the bottle cap out, return it to stock and drive it properly, with the bov working

You basically use CRC or Selleys quick sealant: There are two types both work fine: Black one = most commonly used is Windscreen Sealant Clear one = marine sealant btoh are silicone, use a 2-3mm strip round the old gasket edges of the waterpump, make sure you scrape off all the old stuff, then put it on, bolt it up and leave it to dry for a few hours Then it should be as good as new, total cost round $10

No worries Yeah definitely, would the mono-block be in series or both + and - off the same terminal?

hmmm, it really depends if could just be leaking from the base due to a seal failure or it could be that the shaft of the waterpump is rooted if it's the first one, remove the waterpump, put new seal on it and put it back in, they have a pretty long shelf life anyway if it's the shaft, then you'll be needing a new one, scope out forums, ebay and trade places where you live, I think i got mine for $70 last time I needed it, which wasn't too bad a price, but I guess I could've searched for longer and found a cheaper option

my 2c Don't buy it I'm with the others: Manifold - will crack within a few months, face won't be straight, will need a bit of modding to fit has the tube supporst on the wrong side!!!! so they won't stop it cracking, will need to spend about $150 on welding to actually make sure it doesn't crack, better off spending that money on something decent Wastegate, looks like an XSPower Tial Copy, they are crap, I've heard of alsorts, mostly stuck spring/wastegate flap, which is bad especially if you are running high boost Turbo - looks like the "T70 MonstA" off trademe, it's another XSPower styole copy with "geniune garrett internals(yeah right)" and will fall apart, which could take our your engine... stay well clear, $700 would buy you a Greddy manifold or something similar, I'd then go get one of the highflows off this forum round 1100-1500 with internal gate, or if yuo really want external, buy a tial 38mm or 45mm and get that put on

no you don't need two amps just find a good two-channel single amp, with Low pass filter and you should be able to run it just fine Looking at the specs 600w peak, so about 150w RMS is normal, so look for a 300 - 450w RMS 2 channel amp then check how much the RMS is per channel at 4ohm, because yours can only do 4ohm, if it was a 2ohm sub i'm sure you could've used a 1 channel amp and run them in parallel so yeah: 300-450w RMS 2 channel amp, putting out around 150w x2 RMS

yep fully agree 3" is best, a 3" will sound nicer, deeper, it won't be louder if you do it right Put in 2 mufflers, or a muffler and a resonator, one just after the cat, one at the end of the car It'll sound very nice

Yes and yes make sure you change the ECU to the engine you are running as long as they are all R32 engines it'll be fine Check the For Sale or put up a WTB in the selling section

Yeah I agree with the above, if it's law it's law, nothing you can do about it It's going to happen here apparently(NZ) we have the whole, car confiscation and selling thing, which I think is a good idea, because we have so many morons on the roads over here. THe downside to the car crushing thing is, how do they pay the fines/damages to other people without a car to sell? THey do it already in california, i saw it on our news last night, basically there were about 3 honda civics caught street racing being put in a crusher it was pretty funny, I would be sad if I saw a GTR in it though... They are already planning on doing it in other countries including Canada, although in that case it seems a lot more stupid: Judging from the news coming out of Canada, it appears that the province of Ontario is prepared to go one step further. Ontario Attorney General Michael Bryant has stated that the authorities in his province will confiscate and crush vehicles built for street racing before they even put rubber to pavement on city streets. - I agree with the street racing part, but what if you just want a nice looking car with power or for track work/daily driver? here's a vid for anyone that wants it http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=dUJ1nmtInIE

nah man don't CA18 it, they are alright engines, but sound like diesel tractors when modded 20 or 25t it do it come on, make us proud Glad to see you didn't go anywhere near an MX5.... The GTiR would've been cool, but no RWD switch(they are front biased )

I'd remove it, because it's dangerous when driving aggressively or on a race track feels very bad and sometimes But yeah in a 33 as above, you won't save much weight at all, since it's all electronic In a 32 however you have lines, hicas p/s pump, front solanoid and rear solanoid/rack to remove, so you save quite a bit

hmmm those look like a set of vertex ones I have here, but modded with vents have you got pictures of the underside? if they are moulded in with bog or fibreglass, it should be pretty easily to tell, it'll be harder if they were originally in the side skirts though

the green sticker ones are RB20de/20det/25de off the R32 don't think you want to wire that onto a 25, unless you have a Rb20e R33? In that case, two of the wires are for the hotwire/clean function, can't remmeber which ones though :S

oh true, I thought i read that part, oh well that answers the question I wrote Definitely do it then man I would do the same thing to be honest There are a few people over here driving them, one person has lost an arm and still manages to use a hollinger dog box 6 speed and has round 700hp :S So anything is possible, if you need anymore help just ask

whoops forgot one other thing: diff, you'll need the auto diffs otherwise you'll have a very weird and possibly slow diff ratio, so parts needed: trans cooler(or radiator with one in the bottom off an auto skyline) GTS4 or Stagea gearbox GTS4 or Stagea pedal box or you could use the existing brake and accel Auto gearbox flexi plate? Auto ecu Auto loom Park brake wiring Reverse light wiring from auto MV Auto shift kit(or your box will go a lot faster, especially under the torque of the RB26) maybe a high stall converter front engine diff off GTS4 or stagea - will have to match the rear diff rear diff off GTS4 or stagea Total cost anywhere from $1000 - $2500(in my opinion definitely not worth it, unless you are partially disabled and need a car auto?) - "whoops my bad I missed that part no offence intended" then parts to keep to convert it back: everything you've taken off, Gearbox, pedal box, pedals, clutch, flywheel etc

What year is the GTR? if it's an early model say R32, use the GTS4 auto box, get the MV automatics shift kit, R32 pedal box, mount the trans computer under a kick panel and wire it up in saying that though, the GTRs never came out with an auto transmission, so it won't retard the timing everytime the gear is changed, which means you'll get a slightly rough change at full power

Yeah man 2600 is way way way too much I reckon get a set of Series 2 headlights if your current ones are smashed get one or two sets of Bixenon BMW headlights retrofit them, then get the pits sanded out of the headlight plastic and you'll be set head over to HIDplanet.com or GTR.co.uk and find the guy from Abbey Motorsport who did dual xenon conversion on his 33, it looks absolutely mint Two lights on at normal beam and at high, the shrouds move to the rear of the lense and open up to full beam

Hmmmm, sounds like the hose might be blocked furthur down under the bonnet, pull out the drivers side hose from the washer itself then test, if no water comes out, it's the hose, if it does comes out the squirter is at fault the hose is short about 15-20cm long and connects to a T section to the passenger side easy to replace, you can just get some clear nylon tubing or vacuum tubing to make it work again, happens heaps, most of my cars have blocked up sometime or another

As Manwhore said Good idea A lot of aftermarket fuel pumps come with relays, if yours didn't do a search for bosch relay, or make your own Or you can do the grounded trick off the factory harness, so it runs at 12v all the time, although in my own car I'd use a completely new relay running straight to the battery(which is in my boot anyway)

haha should've been a bit clearer I meant when the radiator hoses have pressure in them, you know, you use a rag or towel to loosen the cap that's probably not a good time to do it when it's cooled down a bit, warm to the touch and not pressurised, yeah I use the hose then too