GD51LA

Anyone know or have the timing specs for these cams? i have messaged JUN for two months with zero response they are 288in/288ex 11.6 lift

Brand new, no longer needed These retail over $500-Asking 380 FPR2000 (there largest in that model) can flow huge power, only mod is AN3 vacuum port-Driven less that 5k’s bexley area

sold

Very clean $700 complete with snorkel, cash pick up canterbury only

very good condition 400 still soft, no sun damage like many out there

How are you guy tightening the almost 500nm balancer bolt (rb26) on an engine stand… i see these torque multiplier’s getting around, anyone used one?

i run a BC 2.9 e85 always 9/1 comp presicion 7675 largest rear housing best turbo for Hpattern/1000Hp makes 1000Wheel at 40psi like i said the large was a big thing for me, but original goal of 1000hp is more important 7275 may struggle making over 1100 (maybe 1000hub) some bearable boost at 4300 and war at 5300 off course there are factors that improve spool or lean towards power like cams, pipping size etc thing i found most benefits in traffic is shorter diff gears, if you have a 3.2 expect it too feel 3.4 with gears AND not too mention your target boost setting is reached sooner (time not rpm) with more cubes like yours i’d definitely go the largest rear housing on whatever turbo you go, and remember there’s a 9k redline so plenty of power (unlike some other motors that don’t like more than 7-7.5k) 7675 sportsman is the perfect pic for 1000hp BUT “1100” maybe a 7685 if the power goal is more important than the low down power (like it is with me)

i’m going japan for a week where red is the car culture based? can i get a list of car places and garages too visit i love gtr’s, car park mets etc o

CA625 head studs, for rb26, not even stretched to the recommended torque yet only took the too 120, they’re rates to 140 so condition is like new used for 5000k’s payed $1200 sell for $600

have you checked if there’s a switch in the motherboard that’ll make it compatible with other model rb’s i have the same ecu it can be switched to be used with 33-34

As it says need one Nitto I beam rod rb26

p

pmd

6 blade pump (should be) n1

found one thanks anyway

sydney pref 040430188-

no i didn’t do that there was no light on the dash you think that would have caused it like i said, the car always drove straight under power so putting it in RWD mode is a must? (btw i did see the front torque gauge go too max at times)

long story short i blew my standard gear box, but the way it happened seems odd... first i went for a hub dyno tune in rear wheel drive, so i pull the transfer case shaft out, when on the dyno the lsd was fighting each other so much so that the car wouldn’t rev smoothly and reading allot less power than it should. i know this because out of the three pulls on the dyno one of them was smooth, first pull the diff was fighting itself and read 300kw, second pull the diff worked and read 500kw, third pull 300kw again... he checked the reading of each hub and the two sides were reading very different power figures?? the car always drove fine?? the tuner said the diff is no good, “this normaly happens when a diff is wearing out” one wheel gets more power than the other here are the reasons i don’t believe this too be true.... the diff had new gears and checked recently, the diff guy even said “i tightened it up abit” in other words it should be more “limo” than standard now, is there a way the active lsd works on the dyno? i rang one diff place and he said by you taking out the front shaft your confusing the active lsd pump "it sounds like an active lsd pressure problem, probably caused buy you removing the shaft" the guy that did the diff is pretty good at what he does, i don't think he got it wrong now i'm driving home in rear wheel drive (shaft still out) on low boost and i can feel the reving out pretty slow (it never did this in four wheel drive) so now the diff is fighting itself on the street too (for the first time) i give it a hit in second and the gear box breaks ( mind you the box held 1000hp before that) yet it breaks in rear wheel drive at 65% of that power what you think?

i have a 1000hp balancer i will no longer be needing as i’m getting the ross kit with CAS perfect condition, 2000km old, new build first tune was two months ago balancer and the required water pump pulley (like the pic) asking $700 located in Marrickville sydney pic is from the internet, im still driving the car i’ll remove it when i get interest i’ll throw some pics of it on the cartomorrow call or sms me anytime 0404301881

these are a great upgrade makes a 2.6 feel 2.8

water pump is n1 i just paid $380 for one [emoji30]

bump

need to diagnose an issue with my g4 weather or not it’s ecu related willing to pay $200 sydney pick is better

HPI-jap made 100mm and holding 1000horse i considered your options but like jap stuff for my jap car BTW it’s hybrid style fin configuration (google a pic and you’ll see what i mean by hybrid)