GD51LA

Mine had the same issue, just felt like it was being held back, I swapped the igniter, been perfect ever since

Twin 3inch?

No worries, I'll try that Cheers!

It feels as light a standard, so maybe a nismo How can one adjust it?

Matt owns/runs a shop in Japan building high HP motors - very high HP motors. This is long, but a good read: If you're looking for soultions here, delete it because there are no solutions for a fictional problem. It's going to be dripping with sarcasm, too! What fun. Hang on to your shorts. That's right. You didn't read it wrong. The Internet spread BS on this subject has finally reached "urban legend" status and I feel it's time to set the record straight, vent, shed some light, whatever. What pushed me over the edge is a new post on Hybrid Z where the guy (Boosted Z I think?) gets some good #'s on the dyno but sees oil pressure falling off around 8,000 rpm. The first questions asked are "Do you have the oil restrictor?" etc... sigh... Are you serious??? Now we've reached the point where the drain back issue is so bad that the engine can't even do ONE DYNO PULL without all five quarts of oil ending up "trapped" in the head?? Give me a break, man. What's funny is that the RB26 is, what, 18 years old, but it never had oil drain back issues until Tomei started selling the stupid restrictor with a little hand drawn picture of high oil level without the restrictor and low oil level with it. Actually, it's not a bad idea, but I'm calling it stupid because of what it started. A little perspective: Obviously Nissan doesn't think it's a problem because they never addressed it in the 33 or 34 engines. Oil returns and pressure orifice are the same as far as I can tell. At least not any major changes for what seems to be a catastrauphic problem (sarcasm). Would someone PLEASE explain to me why Nissan can take a bone stock R32, R33, or R34 to the Nurburgring and go at full throttle, lap after lap, eight plus minutes per lap and never have oil drain back problems that rob the sump of oil, but a guy on an Internet forum can't do one lap of a two minute circuit or even one dyno pull, have oil pressure sag, and have everyone under the sun call out for restrictors and additional drain backs? No, not really; that was rhetorical. I've seen N1 and Super Taikyu race engines up close and even inside. Never seen any additional drain backs. Not sure of the Super GT engines, but they probably use a dry sump with scavenge in the head and no drain backs, to keep oil off the crank. Saw the HKS Drag GT-R up close too, and never noticed anything like that. There are probably thousands of track GT-R's driven in Japan alone that don't have this problem. My experience: Power numbers's? Don't know. Our dyno's here won't hold much over 700 without slipping tires (at least that's as high as I can get it), and I'm not a big fan of numbers on a piece of paper, so I really don't care. However, I can tell you that the most powerful RB26 I've ever built burried a 320km/hr (198.838 mph and don't tell my mom) speedo on the expressway at over 10,000 rpm. Modified HKS pump, no aftermarket restrictor, no additional drain backs, oil pressure holding at a rock-solid 115 psi. In fact, I've never used an aftermarket restrictor or additional drain back in any engine I've ever built... I've never had an oil pressure problem in any RB engine. Ever. I build 'em loose, too. Maybe some people are having problems. With the above, I doubt very much it's a "pooling in the head" problem. Here's why: Suck air in the oil pump and oil pressure goes to zero almost instantly. No "falling off in the top end". Some people shift gears and the oil pressure is magically restored (even though all the oil is in the head), only to have it fall off again as soon as the rpm's climb back up. Oil pressure falling off in the upper rev range can be caused by several things, the most common of which is cavitation. I would put money on it that most people running RB Z's are using the steel pans from the Z31? This not only eliminates the excelent RB26 sump baffeling, it also precludes you from using the RB26 windage trays. Foamy oil cavitates. What happens is tiny bubbles in the oil enter the pump under huge vacuum. A bubble that already exists is much easier to expand into full blown cavitation than oil with no bubbles. The bubble(s) expand to many times their own size, taking up space originaly reserved for oil. Once it hits the pressure side, the bubble collapses, but the damage is done. Less oil went through the pump. The faster the pump spins, the more vacuum is created, and the worse the problem becomes. Oil pressure that falls off as the revs climb is almost always caused by cavitation. This can also be caused by a too-small or too-restrictive oil pick up. Moving it all the way to the back of the engine couldn't possible affect this, could it? I watched a video of a guy going around the track in an RB Z. On braking and turning in only one direction the oil pressure would zero out almost instantly. Once the car straightened out or throttle was restored, pressure jumps back to normal instantly. Once again the common consensus was the 'ol PIHS (pooling in head syndrome). On decel or only turning in one direction? PIHS or bad baffeling in the pan/pick up location? You be the judge, but use common sense. The restrictor is good: But for the wrong reasons. The right reason is the same as a small Chevy or any other engine for that matter... The head doesn't have heavy rotational forces for two reasons: There's no heavy stuff swinging around, and it's only moving at half the crank speed. It doesn't need a lot of pressure, especially because the cam to lifter interface is fed by oil dribbling out of the cam journals. Pressure in the head is wasted, which is the reason for the factory restricotr. A smaller restrictor will keep the pressure to the bottom end higher in the rev range due to decreased VOLUME wasted in the head. The additional return is bad: There are two large returns in the rear of the head and several throughout the length of the left side of the motor. Due to crank windage, the ports on the left side of the engine are subjected to a vacuum because the crank is pulling down on that side of the engine. The one in the rear, right supplies windage to the head for crank case ventilation. Air doesn't pull down the left side if it can't come up the right. Under hard acceleration, oil wants to move to the rear of the engine. Some people install a large line from the rear of the head back to the right side of the front sump in the GT-R pan. Anyone see a problem with this? There's actually two. Under 1g of acceleration, not only will oil not move forward through this line back to the front of the engine, it gives the oil in the sump another path to exit the sump. Reason #2 is that the right side of the engine is pressure side and not the suction side. Crank windage at higher RPM can push oil back into the tube if it's not very carefully baffeled. It could work well in a rear sump if the hose is almost straight down and entering the left side of the engine. But this as assuming there really is a drain back problem. What I have seen/done: An additional line from the back of the head, under the plenum, back to the RADIATOR. Additional coolant movement out of the head. Very common mod on drag engines. Maybe someone saw this somewhere and mistakenly thought it was for oil and ran with it? Who knows. With the additional oil restrictor in place, the oil level in the hed would certainly be lower than without it, but I assure you that even with the stock restrictor, it's not even close to a problem. Especially not the problem it's been made out to be. Anyway. I feel better and will now step off of my soap box. I'm sure there will be arguments from people who had PIHS cured by these mods, or whatever, but you really need to stop and think about it. Especially given the factory stock cars not having problems on the ring, etc. Matt

A friend just bought a 34 Gtr, the clutch bite is at the very top of the clutch travel, does this mean the plates a worn? Or could it be something else?

I sold this guy a brand new 2860 Gtr turbo thinking it would fit he's sr20 A month later he texts me to say it won't fit The exhaust housing is different.. My question is, what the best option? Buy the right exhaust housing new? How much would that be? Or, Find a blow s15 turbo and remove the housing of that? What are my options?

Sky engineering, look them up.

It's a a street car, so it will spend allot of time "flexing" larger cam/lumpy idle is a must:) even if it mean a little less response Got a vid of those Unigroup cams on idle

setup im thinking of putting together. built 26 -5s 270 cams/springs port matched manifolds 3in front pipes, decat 4in exhaust realistically that setup will be closer to 400, but want a 450 buffer, who knows, it might take 25/26 pounds then be closer to 450.. been chatting with a shop (overseas) who does allot of 800 horse twin GTX setups, he tells me the 34 dumps would flow that power, when asked the benafit of the larger hpi dumps, he says, turbo spools a little earlier

searched but couldn't find anything just want to know if anyone out their has pushed 450AWKW from standard r34GTR dump pipes do i really need to spend 1k (or so) on the larger 76mm internal diametre dump pipes? built engine 26..

my standard 26 had 175psi (all 6), paddle was flat..

remove oil cap, if it more dark gold than light gold, that "could" mean old oil was regularly in the motor look underneath the back of the car, some imports come from snowy areas of japan thus leading to corrosion of metals look in and around the front and rear bars, see if all the metal work, sealers etc are genuine nissan check that it shifts smoothly, special from 4th to 5th, high and low rpm's get someone to drive behind you for a min of 5 mins, i woulds be worried if theirs ANY white smoke compression test, minimum 150psi don't let your excitement speed up the sale, take a mechanic, and panel beater as a minimum better yet nrma inspection, he will probably find something wrong with it, if its small then you have more bargaining ammo, thus reimbursing the money you paid nrma

stumbled on this cool product on youtube, http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=LT85IRwW4ek and i was wondering if it might be useful inside your engine? obviously only using it on areas that don't need oil, thus leading to more oil returning to the oil pan? you could spray it to the wall of the motor, rods etc, basically anywhere oil sticks too (where its not needed) what do you guys think?

Thought i would share this find Its an app that will help us steer away from unwanted "hazards" whilst driving. . https://www.trapster.com/ Just imagine how much "safer" our roads would be if a few hundred if used this app when driving around Please share to everyone you know...

pm sent

Not sure The condition is perfect Feel free to inspect Location 2205

reasonable offers considered...

as new r34 n1 (2860-7) turbos for sale, zero shaft play! comes complete with actuators (430819-0369) perfect condition low kms, few thousand

is it my rings? 1'2'3'4'5 are 175, throttle flat number 6 is 110? put 5ml of oil in number 6 went from 110psi to 130 put 5ml in number 5, went from 175psi to 205psi are their any other tests i can do? low kilometre standard engine

PRICE DROP... TURBO 750 this turbo has never fit a car, its brand new, all inspections welcome CLUTCH 150

offers?

Coilovers sold The rest still available

one Garret gt2860-7 brand new never used $800 coilover NEOMAX silvers, italian made not chinese knockoffs, RRP is over $1200 Front12kg Rear 8kg spring $400 clutch is pull type, has 30% meat, out of a gtr $200 Rockdale, Sydney, (5min from airport) call or text me anytime 0404301881

as it says located at wolli creek 2205, 0404301881 i will post pics little later