diamondjo

Need to replace my original, which fell off after a scrape and got run over by me... and then by a truck! Would prefer white, but happy with any colour. The one I'm after is just the fiberglass lip that marries up to the factory S2 front bar and clips in.

So after giving it a quick (yet within the speed limit) squirt up to mount henry bridge I was promptly stuck in traffic for 45 minutes and after a while I started noticing this really weird noise whenever I pushed the accelerator. You hear it under normal circumstances on big old fords and that kind of thing and I once heard it on my wife's car when her exhaust gasket went. I had all these thoughts going through my head of "maybe the fans weren't hooked up after I had the FMIC installed and I've partially cooked the head", "maybe the heat has finally killed the old coil packs". I can't help but think giving it a hard drive and then immediately idling it for 45 minutes has done some major bad stuff . I couldn't even stop the engine because we'd crawl forward every 30 seconds or so. Have a listen; what do you think? -- Should also add; no accusation intended by the "fans" comment, just one of the many possibilities that race through your head when your car is in pain and you can't pull over -- Also: REALLY SORRY for cross-posting. I originally posted this in WA and almost as soon as I did, I realised that was a bit silly because it's not really the right place to post is it? I only posted there because that's kind of where I hang out. Oops!

So after giving it a quick (yet within the speed limit) squirt up to mount henry bridge I was promptly stuck in traffic for 45 minutes and after a while I started noticing this really weird noise whenever I pushed the accelerator. You hear it under normal circumstances on big old fords and that kind of thing and I once heard it on my wife's car when her exhaust gasket went. I had all these thoughts going through my head of "maybe the fans weren't hooked up after I had the FMIC installed and I've partially cooked the head", "maybe the heat has finally killed the old coil packs". I can't help but think giving it a hard drive and then immediately idling it for 45 minutes has done some major bad stuff . I couldn't even stop the engine because we'd crawl forward every 30 seconds or so. Have a listen; what do you think? -- Should also add; no accusation intended by the "fans" comment, just one of the many possibilities that race through your head when your car is in pain and you can't pull over

What's your story? Any damage? how's the car?

Okay, this is weird... tightening the controller right up has no effect either! Tomorrow I will try reversing it in case I have it backwards, but I'm almost certain I don't! Also, checking under the bonnet, things look a bit different to my last skyline. For one thing, I can actually see the waste gate actuator and it almost looks as if the hose from the solonoid comes from a T-piece on the main line goes somewhere else entirely. It was getting dark when I did this, so I couldn't see exactly what was going on, but I'll draw a diagram: It was also hard to see exactly where everything went because of the rubber conduit. I'll take some actual pics tomorrow and try to find out where everything goes.

I'm pretty sure I followed everything correctly, with the arrow pointing towards the turbo-housing (and hence the wastegate actuator) and I was turning the tap in the direction of "Boost+". I can't help but think I've done something wrong though as (apart from the very occasional hunting at idle) everything else about the engine in terms of smoothness and response seem fine. Edit: I think the idle problem is the AFM. It only happens when cold and only very occassionally. A light tap of the throttle always sorts it out.

Yeah an aftermarket gauge. Can't remember the brand name but it's from Supercheap. Can't afford an electronic controller yet - having just bought the new car and getting some mods so I needed a gauge (any gauge) quick smart. I wouldn't have expected the gauge to be more than a fraction of a PSI out regardless of the cost - but I'm really wondering whether or not to trust it. As I mentioned though, the readings are smooth and consistent - it's not like it wiggles up to the line or anything. It's hooked into the pressure line to the stock gauge via a T-Piece. To be honest, the car "feels" faster when I unwind the tap - but you know how reliable feelings are when measuring power increase What bothers me is that even with the tap FULLY unwound, it makes no difference to pressure. Tonight I'll try winding it all the way in to see if the readings come out lower - as they should.

Sleep on it, they say, and the answer will come. Now I'm not a mechanic, this only comes from thinking about the physics of the problem - please someone who knows what they're talking about put me right if this isn't the case. Now I know this is modding 101, but please bear with me because this is my first foray into proper mods. The FMIC and all that extra piping has (for argument's sake only) doubled the volume that needs to be filled with air before the intake plenum. This means that it takes twice as much air to reach the same pressure as it once did and the turbo has to work twice as hard to get there. There's probably nothing wrong with my gauge, tee or anything else, I'm simply getting to the limit of what my little snail can puff. Is this the case? And if so, if it was considered "safe" to run my virtually stock skyline at 12psi, I'm assuming I've got to wind this figure down somewhat for the modded one?

Thanks for the update mate, I was interested to know how you went.

I guess my biggest concern is, I have absolutely no idea what pressure I'm actually running.

So I installed a Turbosmart Boost Tee today along with a boost gauge and according to the gauge I always max out around 9psi and this is the weird part: even with the stock solenoid. The Tee (according to the gauge) makes absolutely no difference - even wound out all the way! Something is very wrong wrong here. I always ran 12psi on my previous Skyline with a Turbotech controller and really didn't have any problems getting to this pressure. The only real difference between the old and new cars is that my current one is more heavily modified that my old one (3" turbo back, hiflo cat, fmic, pod, bov versus just the pod on my old one). Does the fact that the engine breathes easier somehow mean I can't make as much boost? Or perhaps there's something wrong with my gauge. The gauge is responsive and smooth, but I'm not sure I trust it. Anyone have any ideas?

This is true; you should have your pressure set right ANYWAY

So I ended up driving an Avalon until I could get my new 'line. My uncle was kind enough to lend it to me as it is their "dog" car. Not exactly a bunky but not much fun either. Fill up a bath to the top with water, pop some wheels and a V6 engine on it and drive around in that for a while. That's pretty much the experience for you.

Probably not. I'm with Just Car and they didn't check any of that, basically just wrote it off and took the keys. I really don't think they're that bothered as the car goes to auction anyway. I left all that gear in because I just COULD NOT BE BOLLOCKSED tearing the interior apart and putting it all back together AGAIN. Done it once. Hated it. I'd rather spend some bucks on some newer gear. Although the speakers were nice kevlar cones. I'll miss them . Mate, honestly, if you want to do it, buy the cheapest paper shit you can possibly get (from like supercheap or dick smith or jaycar or something) and just replace them. If you're going to the trouble of ripping the interior apart, a few extra bucks and a few extra minutes will ensure you won't get hassled by the assessor (although mine was a top bloke). Also, I have a stock head unit if you're interested PM me (EDIT: Spelling)

Yeah mate totally! I'll post some pics on show'n'shine when I take some tomorrow. Bought it from Alistair at Autoworx. Nice bloke The reputation is warranted. It's another RB25DET - but it's manual, white, and a few toys under the hood.