drf76

hey, im pretty sure that code 21 is ignition ciruit, code 55 is all ok, so it looks like its the igntion side not the injectors

sorry mate i was aware that you only had problem with cylinders 2 and 5, i just thought ill add that as someone said they have the same pinouts, but i cant understand why swapping just the motor would cause such a problem as you said nothing was changed with the wiring looms between rb25de and rb25det, the only thing i can say is start tracing a wiring diagram from ecu to the ignitor and same for the injectors, like people have said it maybe the ignitor, have you definetly confirmed there is a spark to each cylinder, especially 2&5, if there is have you checked the spark plugs, im not sure what tests u have done so it hard to tell, heres a wiring diagram if it helps and start following the wiring see if everything is connected but i cant see that's a problem as you said it was fine on the 25de.

im pretty sure ecu pinouts arent exactly the same, one major thing is that injector 4 and 6 are different, this would cause the injector to fire on the wrong stroke causing it to run on 4 cylinders, u have to swap them around to use a rb25 ecu aswell as other things hope this pic helps, its the differences in 20 and 25 wiring that i mentioned

all i know is that it is a taller radiator, i tried to put my old r33 radiator into my mates s13 rb20 silvia, it had a r32 radiator but the r33 was too tall, but the r32 may have more room but the r33 is definitely a fair bit taller. hope that helps

if its vacumn leak you can spray water along all intake manifold hoses, its a primitive way of finding a leak but always works as it will draw in water and the car will stall or idle really rough, u can use carby cleaner along intake manifold gasket see if thats leaking, however in saying that it sounds like afm meter but u said u have cleaned it, it may be the reversion of air coming back into the afm due to the bigger turbo, have u still got the mesh in the afm ive heard that helps.

theres a diy in this section somewhere, covered in detail, however its is a direct bolt on everthing is exactly the same, i just changed my mates one last weekend only too a couple hours, not hard at all, just find a cheap rb25 turbo heaps going round, i have one if you want.

well youve bought the wrong car for a nice cruiser to start with, get a fairmont giah, if drifting not ur thing so be it, anyone can cruise around and pretend they know how to drive but not many people can actually drive properly on the track or drift for that matter. back to the topic yeah prefer a lock bar any day, even if you look at circuit cars like for eg Jimmy Richards R32 Bathurst GTR he got rid of it aswell as he prefered the driver to control the car, not the car controlling the car. Whether its circuit/drift get a lock bar and feel the difference.

hey, can you please send me your bank details becuase im definetly interested, cheers where you located so i know how long it would take, thanks lucas

exhaust is still available, negotiable

yeh looks pretty normal, from the photos it just looks like it was ground out for balancing

anything up from 2 litres will do like like r31nismoid said, i have almost finished my setup in my skyline its about 4 litres

pms replied

its twin pipe all the way to the rear muffler and not sure if you have to cut the bar as thats how i bought the car

I need to get rid of my current JASMA twin cat back exhaust system as im upgrading to a 3.5 straigt thru exhaust. It has no dents/rust no leaks caused by cracks or holes its in good condition, only contains a few scratches thanks

I need to get rid of my current JASMA twin cat back exhaust system as im upgrading to a 3.5 straigt thru exhaust. It has no dents/rust no leaks caused by cracks or holes its in good condition, only contains a few scratches Out of the cat it splits into twin approx 2.4in pipes into two seperate hot dog resontors then into the rear muffler where it exits thru twin stainless steel tig welded tips, look great and different to the common single cannon exhaust seen of most skylines. The exhaust also sounds great not too loud, sounds perfect. I had around 190rwkw with this exhaust. Location: Brisbane Price: $400 ono prefer pickup but buyer can arrange own postage. thanks

i cant complain at all, i bought a powerfc and a hks fuel rail, for cheaper than anywhere else, thought they were great apart for the long wait but thats normal i guess for parts coming from japan.

ive gone with all super pro bushes as it was just easier and they look exactly the same as whiteline, duro may possibly vary, not sure but they look exactly the same and do the same job in alignment wise, i got them from fulcrum and i was quoting whiteline part numbers and they said their products (super pro) are exactly the same and the only difference they said is that they have them all in stock and theyre blue. Supposedly they make all whiteline bushes. And also they are much cheaper which was a bonus.

exactly spot on, couldnt of said it any better, id go with a v500 for sure, heard lots of good things about them and looking at the features it has you can almost compare it to a MOTEC (almost) but if if had known this computer was coming out i would of got it instead of a PFC 100%

exactly what he said, turbo doesnt spool as hard or as much air as a std one, its what you get when bigger turbos are fitted, if your just after noise you go back to the standard turbo but personly and most ppl prefer more power.

definetly sounds like a miss, like most ppl are saying check your coils and gap your plugs, if you to turn ur boost up im pretty sure it would missfire even worse, pretty common problem, there a many threads how to fix ur coils.

just wondering has anyone done it or is it possible to use a map sensor instead of a afm for a powerfc in a r33 gtst, they are both 0-5volt sensors, voltage goes up as air flow increases in a afm and basically same in a map sensor, i dont how the powerfc would respond to it since its all based on air flow meter tables. If so how would tuning be affected etc? i noticed paulr33 said he could use the rb26 powerfc to use either afm or map sensor. It would just be a lot better and easier than trying hook up a afm to a turbo that needs a 3.5 inlet pipe into it

its most probably due to the bov not being plumbed back as the ecu is expecting that extra air being recirculated, i did the same of my gtst and it ran like crap plumbed it back and it was all good and because i had a pod put on you could still hear the bov pretty loud if thats what ur after. However i seen ppl not run plumb back systems and they ran fine, you can get a extra module to control ur idle etc, ive also seen ppl run two bovs, the original plumbed back and another one to the atmosphere which works too i guess.

say u were running 100% duty cycle, that means you hold the injector open like a garden hose (no pulsing-no break), so logically this would put extra load on injectors/wiring etc so this problem can be related to injector size/duty cycle, bottom line is that running them at above 85% is not a recommended thing for a number of reasons.

sk, i was just wondering about the price on the front camber adjust bushes, u have listed the rrp at $320, i was just on the whiteline site and the price on there is only $163 for the set(it says it contains two items), is there a mistake there?? dont want to pay too much if i dont have too, cheers

definitely not a good idea running them at 92% like r31Nismoid said even 85% is pushing, although many people do its not smart, can fry injector drivers, melt wiring etc which ive seen happen, 75% duty cycle is optimum but means u need even bigger injectors, if you plan of giving you car heaps for longer periods of time dont run them a 92%