BNR32

stick to selling houses mogga man. TG

i bought a power fc with handcontoller from nengun it took 6 days to arrive on my door and has 12 months warranty, all for $1180 incl freight brand new. I am about to purchase a power fc pro (air flow meter removal) for the rb20 with handcontroller for $1350 from nengun incl freight. youre price is reasonable when looking at what you paid, but it is not reasonable looking at the current market on these prodcuts, nengun is unbeatable and is a wholesaler direct from Apexi, i can bet my life he wont have any problem sourcing one.

GTI-R will always be quicker on a traffic light derby no matter how much power the skyline makes, how would you plan to get traction in anything rearwheel drive with over 200 rwkw. My idea of a trafficlight derby is say, to the end of third gear. The only cars that would compete would be impreza, lancer or gtr..... My previous car was a Pulsar GTi-R, fmic, exhaust, 1 bar and i was never beaten by an r33 gtst standing or rolling start. I once raced a slightly modified JZA80 TT Supra and was slightly quicker, rolling start. Needless to say, i upgraded to the real deal.

GTI-R will always be quicker on a traffic light derby no matter how much power the skyline makes, how would you plan to get traction in anything rearwheel drive with over 200 rwkw. My idea of a trafficlight derby is say, to the end of third gear. The only cars that would compete would be impreza, lancer or gtr..... My previous car was a Pulsar GTi-R, fmic, exhaust, 1 bar and i was never beaten by an r33 gtst standing or rolling start. I once raced a slightly modified JZA80 TT Supra and was slightly quicker, rolling start. Needless to say, i upgraded to the real deal.

i heard your car drive past a few weeks ago and you definitely have a boost leak, the thing sounded like my mums vaccum cleaner attached to the arse of our cat, Dina. Roowwwhisssssssssss. That would be your problem. Or it could be leaking between the exhust manifold and turbo but it didnt sound like there was an exahust leak. I dont think cat would be your problem as i assume its one of those 'special high flow units' that mysteriously have nothing inside of them. TG

pics are located above, if you want more then you will have to email me and arrange to look at the car.

leave it along foreskin drive at nobbys on the weekend with a big for sale sign. You will sell it for sure..

Mik, im running standard BNR34 N1 bottom end and BNR34 N1 turbos in my 32. I also have trust 264 9.1mm camshafts and the car is making more power than your car and is making full boost by 4750 rpm. There is something funky going on. TG

ARC make a really nice aluminum or carbon fibre replacement box for 80mm Z32 afm. I just did the upgrade and without any other modifications except for Z32 AFM and power FC tune i saw an increase of 60 RWHP. I bought my Z32 AFM brand new in boxes from www.nengun.com for $449 per afm, that is unbeatable price for brand spanking new AFM. He threw in the tomei adaptors so there was no butchering at all. Apexi PowerFc has a function to run the Z32 afm, so i dont know why you would consider doing anything else, all of the hard research has been done for you. Z32 work well and consistently and at the nengun price they are cheaper than most second hand half shit afm's. TG

I looked at going bigger turbos or turbo. My BNR34 N1 turbos supply plenty of power for an all rounder (440HP at all four, 500 RWHP, 600 ENGINE HP) so i have decided to keep the setup the way it is. A friend who has a fairly standard 32GTR took my car for a drive and felt no difference in drivability from his except my car came on alot stronger once coming onto boost and then much much stronger from mid range to top end. Turbos arent the be all and end all...I know another GTR that has a shmick HKS t04R kit on stock engine with the right fuel and ignition timing tune and right fuel mods. The thing only makes 385 RWHP compared to my 500RWHP and my turbos are rated at 100HP less air.. I think alot of it is due to camshafts, intercooler, oil cooler and all the other bits that add up at the end of the day. Ive driven a gtr with a big turbo and was not that impressed. I driven gtr's with smaller bolt on GT2540 & GT2530 kits that are nicer to drive and actaully feel like they have more stomp because you can actually feel the torque working to youre advantage, not frying the wheels. SydneyKid is right, im not aware of any quick tsukuba track cars that make much over 650HP. I once read an article (attempted to read) from option magazine that was showing the power difference to weight advantages of big turbo kits on track cars. The big turbo kits weighed more, developed power at the wrong time and within too narrow a power & torque band, the cars required much large brakes & clutches and hence even more weight, bigger fuel systems were needed, fuel economy was down and engine rebuilds were a more common occurance. The smaller turbo kits supplied broader power and torque bands, required smaller lighter clutch and brake setups with less reciprocating mass, used less fuel and had lighter fuel systems by carrying lighter loads, engines lasted longer so more time was spent tuning suspension and lap speed.. Not all of the above principles relate to street driving, but most do. Big kick arse turbos are good for two things: 1. Gloating horsepower sheets to your mates 2. Drag racing If you want an all rounder with shitloads of power under the foot, go buy a set of Apexi t517/8Z low mount turbos, HKS GT-RS or a set of td05-20g high mount turbos, im sure if Kier Wilson decided to go track racing or all rounding instead of drag he probably would have kept his smaller td05 or small td06 turbo setup, over the larger ones he runs now. TG

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i thought it could be a blocked breather... Does the transfer case have a breather? Where would the transfer case be leaking?

Ive tried to sell a few times but to no avail. I love this car and really dont want to sell it. I change my mind more than my clothes so ill give it another go. Be quick or i might change my mind back again. Ive posted pics three times before, so check further down this section for BNR32 GTR tuned my midori. Car imported by me and built by Midori in japan www.midoriseibi.co.jp well over 650Hp at the engine 440HP at all four wheels. BNR34 N1 engine internals, turbos, Alcon brake kit, big oil cooler and relocation kit etc etc. I have receipts for over $70,000. In fact you will have to do a good job to let me release it for 38K! Damn the price of realestate, else i would not be selling!!!! TG

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i dont think there is any question about the rebuild, if its under warranty, rape the bastards for all they are worth! I wouldnt want to re-engineer oil squirters that are an integral part of the engine, spray pattern etc etc wiil be affected if you extend their seating position. TG

fuse

and fair enough...

i have 1994 model BNR32 GTR, chassis no. bnr32-313761.... engine is BNR34 N1 so i cant help you with the engine vs chassis number comparisson. One major difference between the two is that 93 onwards gtr's have a pull type clutch, 89-92 have a push type clutch. Just have a look on the drivers side of the bellhousing where the clutch for sits and you will know if you are running an early model driveline. From there it will be hard to know if the actual engine has been changed. From what i have seen in the past, most japanse conversions to 33 series engine includes the driveline which includes the better rear diff (heavily finned) etc etc...something you could check. Barring all that, just ring up any Nissan dealership and they will tell you what chassis the engine number will match. TG

gtr 32 offset

nismo gmax2 twinny.... new plates and machining about 15,000 kms ago, probably needs rebuild soonish. I know what a burning clutch smells like, i dont reckon it was that....

yeah, who is we?

The only workshop to trust in Newcastle in terms of tuning Power FC is Premier Exhaust & Performance. Rodney used to work for Dave Alexander (Silverwater Automotive Services) so he performs a pre dyno checkover. They put the car on a truck and the car is tuned in Sydney at Sliverwater Automotive Services and returned to the workshop in Newcastle. It takes the pain out of getting to and from Sydney and it gets you to jump the waiting list... I would definitely reccomend this way as i did it and was very very happy with the results (440 HP at all four wheels). You would be surpised how many cars initially tuned at CRD end up in the hands of Dave at Silverwater Automotive. Go see the boys at Ferry Rd. Sandgate, theyll helpy you out.

Was on a dyno the other day and the wierdest thing happened. I dont usually dyno the car in rear drive as its usually always tuned on SAS four wheel drive dyno. This time was an exception. The car has previously made 440HP at all four wheels, so i would have expected over 500 RWHP. The car ramped up to 1.3 bar and at about 6000 rpm smoke started floating from the gear shif boot. I thought this was strange so cancelled the run at 455 rwhp. Went again for the second time and the power went up to 471 and then dropped off with more slight smoke again. The smoke smelt like gearbox oil, but there was absolutely no gearbox oil to be seen on the ground or anywhere. Checked all fluids and everything rosy. Only just recently i thought that it might have been something to do with the wet clutch pakcs in the tranfer case, any thoughts? Has anyone had similar problems running BNR32 gtr in rear wheel drive on a dyno? By the way, i wont be putting the car on another rear drive dyno, its not worth the headache or the stench of burning oil! TG

Duncan, yeah a bit rough on dyno's, i believe in them, i just dont swear on them. I trust a chassis dyno for tuning as a safety point (ignition timing, boost and fuel) so that i can flog around a circuit and not worry about big lean outs, boost spike or irregular timing. Even then i err the paranoid side of things..I totally agree, its what hits the ground that matters. Sydneykid, -Fuel economy, i totally agree, but you know what my point was. -Porsche racing is not F1 or V8 S/Cars, but i agree and take your point onboard. -Sounds like you have a good dyno, Silverwater Automotive claim about 15% change in calibration every 3 months. P.s what teams are you involved with? You may know my uncle (Pee Wee Siddle, Goold Motorsport) he has alot to do with Porsche Cup and runs the volkswagon racing team with Stokell and Timmy Leigh, not to mention unearthing Nelson Piquet into formula 1 back in the days, blah blah blah... Tom Goold