BNR32

Go and see foulsy at Marty's smash, hell fit anything you will can buy. In terms of buying bodykit stuff, forget looking for anything worthwhile in this country.... try www.ooparts-international.co.jp for good quality jap bodykits, not aussie built shit you see on local mirages, civics etc. If you want good bodykits then dont expect to use the words 'reasonable, cheap, good' because frankly, bodykits are friggin expensive for what purpose they serve on the street and that is none at all (except carbon panels for lightness). TG

Never seen so much controversy over a topic because i think there is a confusion of about 3 or 4 different topics... Why not ask the obvious question like, who invented the dyno and why? Chassis Dyno's are used to fault find, fix problems under load and many other tasks that are illegal or impractical for a mechanic to do on the road. Chassis Dyno's are simply another tool in the roll cab that tuners use to get the 'nicest' and most 'streetable' tune out of a car. A dyno printout is just one of many functions, the real money is in the drivability of the car (economy & smooth driving). What race team out there gives a shit about reutrn to idle, low rpm acceleration or fuel economy that a dyno is designed to facilitate? Using a chassis Dyno to mesure power (as this topic is based on) is just one the intended purposes. A Chassis Dyno is a shortcut and 'poor mans' version of an engine dyno if outright horsepower is your 'bag baby'. That said they all have their own strengthts and weaknesses: -Chassis Dyno (quick, cheap, sort of accurate, can identify other unrelated engine problems such as clutch g/box diff tyre problems) -Engine Dyno (long process, expensive, extremely accurate, can identify engine component failure via heat imaging, etc etc) In terms of comparing which is more accurate for outright horsepower 'Chassis Dyno or MPH', neither are meant for that purpose. Just as an example: How many race teams (V8 Supercars, Formula 1, etc) have chassis dyno's? I wouldnt be able to quote a number because i dont know the answer, but i sure as hell know they all rely on engine rooms (engine dyno's) to tune, run in and test component strength and failure... When you look at examples of race classes where they are restricted to outright horsepower (le mans at one stage, i think??), how did they measure 'outright power', you guessed it an engine dyno. Race Engines are whacked in the car and a final tune is set during testing on the track. Hell, most formula 1 cars have a different ECU tune for each track relevent to height above sea level, temp, corner entry and exit speeds etc. So in conclusion to this huge thesis of a reponse, outright power can only accurately be measure on an engine dyno. In terms of the next best thing, id have to say Chassis Dyno combined with track times for someone who likes track work and MPH for those who drag race. Or simply as sydneykid stated 'horses for courses'.. TG

Trust and a few others make a speed cut defender for the GTR... they are expensive but worth it because they come with all the instructions, cable ties, wire connectors etc etc.. www.nengun.com sell to the states and his prices are good, you should have no problems getting one from there within 7 days direct from Japan. Other alternative is to go with an Apexi Power FC if you have future plans for modifications, providing you have a local tuning shop that can tune a power fc.

9's all around and i am very keen to sell them, thought they were 9.5's.... Will be able to send on the 26th October when my replacement wheels turn up. Negotiable on price, further photos can be sent.

still for sale, any GTR owners wanting wheels???

no problem.... would 9" be more youre liking?

9.5" all round... Falken GRB 245/45/17 front Dunlop Formula FM901 245/45/17 on the rear...tyres on rear are on the way out, but i am negotiable due to their condition.

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White 17" N1 Racing forged rims 245/45/17 all round 70% front 10% rear Would fit 265 rubber. Designed for and currently fitted to BNR32 GTR. Light weight good looking rim. Selling due to upgrade to BNR34 GTR rims, was going to keep these and whack slicks on for the track and may still do depending on interest. It would be a shame to leave these a just 'track hacks' as they deserve a better life than in the garage. $1500 Negotiable.

got a rear windscreen wiper?? Ill pay freight and eft to your account. Email me tgoold @ abigroup dot com dot au (spam free) Cheers.

Premier for sure, dont forget about Rodney (ex Silverwater automotive)... Brendan and Rodney are the best in the business, theyll help you out and specialise in aftermarket performance. Brendan has been fitting exhausts for years and has race car preparation dating back to the Dick Johnson Sierra days...

Ok ive got the EVC Pro manual in front of me and it doesnt really ever use the words self learning. It does state that you have to reset the stock boost levels which i gather must start the self elarning phase.... This can be done by holding down the mod, alt and sbc buttons simultaneously until a beep is heard. Can i do this rather than a master reset, or is a master reset needed? TG

how long has BP ultimate been around for? I have used optimax for about 3 years and have had no problem with it, in fact i wont use anything else, unless you guys prove me otherwise. I tuned my car on optimax and it made 323.5 kw at all four wheels with no problems..... Im shocked to see that there are so many people against optimax. Silverwater Automotive certainly dont have problems with it... BP Ultimate is a newer product yeah? TG

Meshmesh, I havent had a chance to do the learning mode thingy yet. I will as soon as i get the chance, probably on Sunday morning if its a crisp morning (id like to do it when its cold as this is when it spikes the hardest) ill have to do it on the highway though as my car is making about the same power as your car (323.5Kw at all four) and as you would know, 240+ km/h is not hard to achieve and go past when in 4th gear at full song. I am just hoping that this will work, i dont want to change the the trim level from 100, i did that before and it was simply shit. I am glad to hear that your experience was the same and that reset and relearn fixed the problem. TG

read my comments, i stated that leaking hoses were the first! TG

Hi, Ive got a small problem that has been bugging me for a while. I recently got my car tuned with pfc and z32 afm at silverwater automotive services. The car cranked out 440hp at all four wheels which i was stoked with but there are a few little issues that need ironing. Issue 1: On return to idle, the car dips down to about 500rpm and then back up to the 1100 rpm set idle speed. This is sort of annoying and feels like the car is about to stall but then it picks the revs back up again. I really want this sorted. Issue 2: When driving about 3/4 throttle then a slight lift off then back on again, the car seems to buck and jerk, there is not a smooth transition between on and off throttle. I would also like this fixed. I rang sas as this has been happening since it was tuned, however 'the phone guy' reckons that these problems are common on worked gtr's. I read an article written by Martin Donnon that stated that these problems can be fixed and are quite common after an 'initial tune'. TG

bloody champion, that is exactly my problem. Youve saved me alot of time and money...!! Cheers TG

meshmesh, could you detail the events of you mishap in an email to me? [email protected], i am desperate to get this working! Thanks for your comments, i would love to know how to fix this problem. So you just did a full reset and setup the controller how? I do have the manual but i would like to hear your case. Did you ever bother with changing the filter to the solenoid? Cheers. TG

Have a look at the nipple that comes out of the standard gtr solenoid line and tell me that a blocked filter is less restricitve than that! We all know what removing the nipple in the solenoid line does so you can imagine the signal strength to the hks solenoid with a blocked filter... think about it. Why would the Australian HKS distributor claim that line filter blockages are the second most common faults for boost spikes following leaking hoses? TG

a blocked line filter can cause a restriction and there is the chance that a spike could occur. BD4's informed me on this one, ill try taking the filter out as it is black and that could be the problem. Anyone got a spare solenoid for the HKS EVC Pro? TG

definitely boost controler, pretty standard japlish really.

As title explains, my HKS EVC Pro boost controller is struggling to keep boost stable, its spiking its head off as soon as im in third or fourth gear. It spikes to the boost cut and then switches the unit off which ends all the fun. Ive emailed bd4's and they were helpful in telling me that i could try changing the line filters and doing a master re-set. The line filters is an avenue i could look into, the master re-set and tune on dyno was done with a still spiky boost controller. There are no boost leaks, i really think its the boost controller, but i am unsure of which part to replace or how to narrow down. The other alternative is to go brand new but again, i would rather save dollars in replacing the hks solenoid or control module over buying a new controller. The hks evc pro is still the most expensive boost controller in the hks catalogue even though it is an old design, due to its advanced features. Does anyone have a boost controller that they swear on? I really like the HKS EVC pro up until now! Any comments would be appreciated. TG.

thats bad luck... sale not going well, one guy potentially interested but offer is too low, another guy interested through silverwater automotive but yet to offer price. Thinking about keeping the car as i dont owe money on it and its great fun to drive on the track and street. Ill just save for a house deposit (if i can stop spending on the car) rather than selling the car, house market is on the decline anyway. Im eyeing off a twin 2835R kit and trust transmission that i could snap up as all the ancillaries (bottom end, fuel sys, ecu, etc) are capable of taking a larger setup. I just dont want to lose the great streetability of the current tune. Im not aware of many gtr's making over 550Hp at the rear wheels (440 at the four) on low mount turbo's, so its kinda cool to have that under the belt. TG

Didnt you tell me that the car sold for $31K?? Ill assume the standard bottom end threw a leg out of bed, hence the price rise to cover your parts costs?