BTM

Then when you save some money go the 260 Poncams as the Neo camshafts are extremely mild. Don't bother with the standard GT-R stuff.

You're pushing too much air for the stock BOV to handle. If you replace it, it will remain the same. You need a bigger bore aftermarket plumb back if you wanna eliminate it.

Looks like a tad bigger would be far better suited to the motor though. Enough to get it flattening off around the 6500 mark would be far better. Impressive results nonetheless.

PowerFC is the way to go for a simple plug and play. If you're happy to run an RB20 computer, you can have that remapped to whatever specs you need. Don't both with full wire in management for such simple mods, as both the options above will support you to insane set ups.

That's f*cking sweet. You'd have so much more fun with the RWD that AWD as well Carbon fibre is illegal full stop. It splinters unlike fibreglass and causing unnecessary risk. You'll never get through with it now. If you paint it, you might stand a chance, but they'll laugh you out of the sheds if you roll in with it showing. Also expect full engineers cert for the rest of your bodywork depending on who you get. Fibreglass guards can be on the car, but they will now require an engineer to sign off that the eye brow heights are the same as factory, or if they are different, what the new ones are.

I know what he means. I wanna know about his experience with Smooth They're always looking to improve customer service, and to be honest, he'd have to be one of the only unhappy people I've seen come out of there. The work they do is excellent and the prices are far better than most of the competition.

The difficulty is every tyre is slightly different, and some will appear to stretch, while others won't. All tyres have different sidewall stiffness levels, as well as a variation in the tread width itself, despite remaining the same size rating. A 255 or 265 will possibly look a little stretch (like with a Bridgestone etc) but more likely be straight up and down. If I remember correctly, the R32 GTR came with a 225/50R16 factory? If that's the case, by going for a 255/35R18, you should retain the same rolling diameter as factory, with the 265 being a tiny bit larger (though the size is usually cheaper to buy). As I stated in my posts, stretch can obviously go too far and be unsafe. However there are benefits to it in mild applications (from a performance perspective, not only looks). Manufacturer recommendations are overly mild, and 90% of tyre fitter's I've met don't even know the correct tyre fitting procedures to do their job, let alone understand what is going on (before you tell me I don't know better, I used to do a lot of tyre work for high end models like Porsche, Ferrari etc). I wouldn't let most people touch my wheels and tyres. Now it's all a perception with 'stretch' being bad, as some people think of it to extremes. I personally run mild stretch (235 on 9.5 or 265 on 10.5 etc) to stiffen up the side walls of some of the softer brands of rubber I like to use, while having the benefit of extra clearance for lower offset. If I was running a full slick or semi slick, I would tone down my offset to run vertical side walls. Don't think I'm some random with no idea about tyres, fitment, or the obvious negatives of stretch/bulge. I never recommend extremes because to an extent I DO agree with you. And my cars are set up to out perform and out handle most others I see on the road, based on my experience and how I personally like my cars to feel. As for a performance car with stretch, look at the 550 Maranello's they run in the Bahrain series. They run stretch, albeit mild. Late to discovering this thread Hence only reading the last 8 pages or so. Just here to help people where they need it, as a lot of the opinions on SAU are still the same as were on ns.com 24 months ago. Some people recommend truly stupid things as extremes the other way, which i strongly oppose, so it comes down to finding a nice balance That's perfect. Police like it too. If that's yours I give a big thumbs up Sorry I may have misread your post. I thought you were saying you'd put a big kit on the car to make it look lower, rather than actually lower the car. Took it as the typical Australian styling of 4 feet between tyre and guards and a BN kit with 19 inch Dolce's from Ozzy Tyres lol.

I'd seriously be getting Jeff at The Speedlab to tune your 200. He's hard to get in contact with at times, but he'll tune the car far better than Willalls.

Not Willal? LOL. Care to explain your reasons at all? I see a lot of behind the scenes with all these issues so I'd be interested to know

No Bayside available. Was only 34GT-R, and an expensive option on GT-T's (hence extremely rare).

LOL.....Sydney is the best are getting 150,000km cars in Japan, and them coming in with 55,000km haha. If he does go interstate, be REALLY anal about checking the car. If it reflects the k's than go for it, but there are plenty of tell tale signs of the cars being wound back.

Clem's stupid f**king tyres claimed another few cars. Seriously the dude needs to pull his head out of the sand.

Omport a car. At least you can trust the tight rules in Japan as to the history of the car. Here most cars get their clocks wound back. And have no history that can be trusted. The super high k cars at auction that are immaculate sell for almost as much as legit low k car's as clocking them is so easy.

10.5 +0 is possible and will require light guard work and camber all round. This is around the size I would be using for one, but you need to look at -3 camber and a light pull of the guards. Would look tough as nails pulled off though Wrong. This should be a starting point with a mildly cambered alignment. It sounds like you have the wrong set up. Either it's your tyres, or alignment that are making them not fit. 9 +5s fit under mildly pulled standard guards That looks like next to no camber. causing the wheels to stick out. If you drive the car hard, you should be running around -2.5. Then you'll find the wheels are not mexican at all as the tops will come in about 10-15mm. Fronts are the wrong size. Give them a miss. Unless they're new and you can get the fronts in a +20 or +25.

"person with taste" is how i'd say it Also it needs to be mentioned that offset is also relative to width. The centre point is measured and the offsets calculated from there. Obviously if you have more width on each side, they'll stick out more with the same offset etc. Eliminating the fender gap should be a priority over buying a big kit to make it look low. That's why 98% of Australian modified imports look like absolute shit. We're slowly educating the masses though.

You don't understand that the wheels are highly illegal anyway, and stretch is both safe (when not over the top) and commonplace now to allow for extra offset without guard clearance issues with the static camber. There are already too many shops that cry about stretch. Please do not be another one. At the end of the day, those kind of recommendations only lose you business. Different strokes for different folks. It's part of life. If you had 235s on 10s and can fit 265s on it without modification, you had the wrong tyres anyway. The only reason to run the 235s on 10s would be to avoid clearance issues due to wheel hang with the standard ride height. Sorry Duncan, but you clearly have no idea what you're talking about. You also clearly have no idea why we do it or the reasons behind it. I have always run mild stretch (sometime aggressive depending on my alignment set up and tyres), but also run wider flat tyres in other scenarios. Stretch is not ideal for a lot of situations, but bulging tyres is just as bad for others. Making a sweeping statement without any clear knowledge on the area just makes you come off as arrogant and uneducated. Huh? No way! +20 on the front and +35 on the rear for handling. Pulling out rear camber will give grip and fill the guards. Cambering the front for handling will also give more room. They'll just look goofy if 3 piece coz you want more dish on the rear etc.

They would have just wanted the GT-R brakes on it yeah?

Unfortunately as true as that might be for him, some of the other inspectors will enjoy f*cking you over on it, and other won't. And police will definitely fist you if you have your car 1mm too low (had a friend done for 2mm too low lol). Just like I went through with my old Silvia with all rose jointed adjustable arms and had no issue. My mate that went through 2 months later was failed for them and had to pull them all out. Just depends on your luck.

Wait til you have a seriously modified toy and a bad inspector. I've had some great Regency experiences (as great as a defected car can be), but I've also had some hellish ones. Some of the inspectors are just plain c*nts, to put it lightly.

Yeah a restored matching numbers car would be worth big dollars, though more likely it would be in Japan. They go crazy for the old Skylines and the like. Though unfortunately I think they would only be worth like $30k keeping the price of the high demand model of Skyline in mind

I wouldn't listen to any 'second hand' information from people in Adelaide. Too many people with no idea and just like to gossip like little bitches. I know a few personal experiences or direct experiences of some workshops where talk might be true, but I also know of a lot of stories that are also unfounded and based on car owners with no idea, or unreasonable expectations. To be honest I've never heard of Classic Performance but Ashley seems to get a good wrap After many years in the scene you get to know your own crowd and become loyal to people. Sounds like you're on a winner though. Kahli, have a chat to Nicko or Ben from Smooth Garage. Not sure how busy they are now, but they may be keen to have it finished up for you

LOL. They lose value if they aren't matching numbers etc at that age. No-one would pay $60k for one with an RB20.

I'm fitting 9.5 and 10.5 to mine. I definitely wouldn't be going 8s on the car. It is way too big for such narrow wheels. 18x9 +30 is GTR34 size so work out how you want them to sit from there

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