zertek

yes people do, do it. i helped a mate convert his s1 to a s2 front end only a couple of months ago. s2 rio bars can be found easily off a wrecker and bolt straight up to the s1. panels are easy enough to come across also.... at the end of the day, everything can be swapped between both series. best way to check if your that worried about it, is to call nissan with ur vin.

check for the ignitor. if you have an ignitor pack bolted to the back of your coil pack cover, then its a series 1 engine. as for body parts, they are easily exchanged and simple bolt ons. theres many different little things that can determin the difference, but the only way to be sure is in the vin number. Call nissan with the vin and they should be able to tell you what month it was made.

+1 for a rev limiter. your car is manual right???

car is tuned and running. drove it home yesterday. went for a REALLY conservative tune on 15psi and it easily pumped out 255kw at wheels. sorta come to a swap deal with my mate for a bunch of parts. but if anyone is willing to take it this week at the asked price, then my mate told me to just do that instead.

Item: RB20de W/ rebuilt gear box by wheelworx (with receipt) + Xtreme heavy duty clutch with excedy clutch plate Age: engine 130,XXX, trans gear is fresh with only about 20 hours of use in total Condition: very good. engine doesnt skip a beat Price: 1k or 1.2k with rb20 turbo gear To Fit: any car Location: Adelaide. willing to post Contact: mike on 0414 398 019 Comments: Ok so basically i have purchased an R32 GTS for a drift project and i have a RB25det package on the way. So the RB20de gear is up for sale. all gear is still in car and functioning well. Not for long though cause i have a conversion to finish. so if your interested, get your inspections booked asap. When i purchased the car a couple of months ago, the gear box had a bust centre bearing. So i took it down to wheelworx where i had it rebuilt with new bearings and syncro's installed where needed. So whats in the package you ask? -complete RB20de motor -Loom w/ fuse box and sub looms -Rebuilt gear box -Xtreme HD clutch with Excedy clutch plate -ECU EVERYTHING you need for a direct bolt in to a ceffy, skyline, s13, VL etc. Also you can choose if you want to have it remain as is: N/A with EXTRACTORS and a full magna flow 2.5" exhaust (1k) OR RB20 turbo with headers and cat back exhaust. (1.2k) If you dont already know, N/A RB engines are proven to run well with a turbo kit added due to the extra compression. And is just as safe with the right tune. Prices are negotiable! if you have any questions, PM me or call me on my mobile 0414 398 019 and dont forget to check out my other items!

this is the only pic i have of it online. i can take pic of it seperated from the car if you are a serious buyer. suited for any turbo with a 4" turbine inlet. pipe is 4" the whole way through so your average pod filter joins flush to the other end.

BODY / EXTERIOR ~ R32 GTS-T FRONT BAR, WHITE IN COLOUR (tiny scuffs, NEED IT GONE!!!) - SOLD R32 REAR BAR small pole ding in very center. white in colour - $40 ono R32 boot lid. very small pole ding in very center - SOLD AUDIO: ~ JL AUDIO 14.5" sub woofer in JL carpeted box. BRAND NEVER USED!! (i payed $480) - $150 ~ Pioneer 6" splits with little amp controllers - $100 ~ Cadence 6" coaxial speakers BRAND NEW NEVER USED!!! (still in box) - (i payed $105) - $50 ~ can organise 6 by 9's too if you need them - $50 MECHANICAL: ~ X2 pair of RB20 cam covers (also a straight fit to RB25 and RB26) - $50 each pair ~ pair of standard R32 castor rods $40 ~ X2 Alternators (will fit RB20, 25 and maybe 26??) good condition - $50 ~ X2 Air conditioning kits for R32 (condensor, gas, pump, lines etc.) used but in good nik - $180 each ~ CHROME 4" intake pipe. looks sex (just cost me $190 to get a non chrome one made) - $100 ~ Various Loom plugs - $20 each (PM me what ur after) ~ All heater boxes and crap behind the dash (R32) - $$ make an offer ~ AWD RB sump to suit RB20 GTS4, RB25 GTS4, Stagea, RB26 GTR - $55 ono ~ AWD gear box to front diff drive shaft - $45 ~ Standard RB25det, RB20det manifold - $55 ono PARTS ARE NEGOTIABLE DEPENDING ON WHICH PART. PHONE NUMBER IS 0414 398 019 thANX GUYS, Mike

dont know what the deal is with stallies but with clutches and brakes i know u have to wear them in on conservative driving for them to bed, other wise they get shagged real fast and can cause slippage im guessing it would be the same deal with the stallie? though i hope that your stallie slipping isnt the case...

crap! i was after a package like this... pitty i didnt see it sooner

hey sk, i bought the d-project adj castor rods from drift shop. unfortunately they didnt come with any grease. but now i know to go and find myself some molly grease but like i said in my second post, it makes sence that the grease works its way out of the joint apon friction... hopefully i have some teflon lining in them. ill have to have a closer inspection now because i dont remember seeing any. cheers a mil gary

duno. just remove it like i did. spent a couple of hours going through and removed 100% of the hicas crap. it piles up to a decent mound of crap once you pull it all out. and the power steering feels noticably lighter now

hey mate, no need. just buy mine Na i got the rb25det from a stagea series 1, but they come with a series 2 rb25. the series 2 stagea come with the NEO. really all ya need to do is swap the front diff ratios to rb20 so all 3 of your diff ratio's match.

well it only needs to go through cop shop to pass. so it will just involve putting on stock turbo and exhaust for a day. cop shop is heeeeaps more lenient than regency and aslong as all the engine numbers match and pass (i have receipt for the rb25 and still have the origional rb20) and nothing too obvious is sticking out then it will be fine. other than the top mount, nothing else really other than the turbo timer and 2 guages will have to be hidden/removed.

at work i operate alot of machines and its a must to regrease all the joints each morning. because it works its way out apon friction. but these machines are designed with special greasing nipple points. so im thinking if i was to grease these rods and future mods, it would only be a temporary lube before id have to pull them back out again and grease them over. so maybe just regular CRC spray will do... ?

hey guys, for this year i will be swapping my standard suspension and handling gear for aftermarket replacements. Just finished installing the first mod (castor rods) and now im thinking hmmm... should i have greased thoes? just wondering if i should pull them back out, grease them up and what to do about future upgrades. ive heard u can just spray on CRC an that does the job but i want it all done properly. So what do you guys out there do?

Also has brand new engine mounts and something else that i just remembered and forgot already.... :S

Make: NISSAN Model: R32 GTS4 Milage: 62k Transmission: R32 GTR 5 speed gear box Colour: custom gun metal grey w/ a gold pearl Location: SA (willing to send interstate) Complied? YES RWC supplied? No Currently registered? Rego'd in QLD until July 08. Price: 12.9k Contact: Michael on 0414 398 019 (anytime) Comments / Modifications: PROJECT VIDEO: CLICK HERE Ok guys, Up for sale is my beautiful missus that i have spent all of my money on over the past year. In its previous form i only got 6 drives out of it!!! It of course back then was an RB20 powered 32. thousands and thousands of dollars later it is now almost complete and already up for grabs! It's currently sitting at turbo tune getting the last of the wiring finished so will be ready for its first start up and tune in the next couple of weeks Reason for the project was on my 6th drive of this car it blew up... shortly after buying it last year from a guy in Queensland. Diagnosed it was just a blown head gasket, but workshops wanted approx 1.5k to fix it. So as ya do, i said screw that ill just buy a RB25det for that price and put it in, then it will all be sweet............. sadly thats not how it turned out. I located a very good condition series 2 rb25det sitting in a '96 model stagea front cut with only 62k on the digital cluster. completely bog standard. I sold the standard rb25 turbo with intention to use my GT2540R from my previous rb20 set up. later down the track we found in the blow, bits of spark plug had completely destroyed the rear wheel of the turbine. so that was replaced with a brand spanking new GT2871R turbo with bigger housings from garret. RB20 plenum had to go (dont fit on rb25's), and that was replaced with a brand new Greddy style front feed plenum with a new 80mm throttle body. anyway, i could go on for pages and pages worth of mod stories but ill just list what it has for easier inspection... RB25DET s2 RB20det GTS4 sump and front diff (shorter ratios than the GTR) Shimmed rear diff GTR gear box NISMO short shifter NISMO extra heavy duty twin plate clutch (plenty of meat left) NISMO Flywheel GTR forged wheels GTR front bar recon springs and shocks BRAND NEW GT2871R (440hp turbo) sourced from ATS reconditioned S15 480cc injectors. BRAND NEW just jap radiator Malpassi 1.7:1 rate fuel pressure regulator Haltech 3 coil waste spark ignition. MSD DIS4 CDI ignition using 3 channels, 2 step RPM limiter for anti-lag/launch control. BRAND NEW Greddy style intake plenum BRAND NEW 80mm throttle body Stainless exhaust manifold with GT25 flange welded on. HKS super dragger exhuast (no cat) Custom dump Turbosmart 38mm Street gate, external wastegate. Screamer pipe 4WD/2WD switch and loom (choose between 2WD or AWD at the flick of a switch) Haltech external boost control solenoid. Turbosmart V-port BOV. Modified standard fuel rail RB20det Remapped ECU by SPEEDLAB Full flow oil system and oil filter relocator Front mounted Oil cooler DRIFT oil catch can DRIFT pod filter with custom made intake pipe Bosch 040 700hp in tank fuel pump. 600x300x75 front mount intercooler. Various after market Guages O2 sensor digital guage Greddy turbo timer Images: some pics....

ok:)

yea mate. that youtube vid of the gts4 is my other 32 (a forever lasting project). thats not the car i took out for the drifts. as stated i took my white non turbo 32 which has sweet F*ck all balls but eventually i plan on putting the engine out of my beasty gts4 in my white drift hak 32. but that will only be after i am confident enough to drift with that much power....

found my problem just for thoes that were curious. fitted the lock bar, looped the power steering lines, removed and unplugged the rear solenoid, filled P/S fluid, clipped the green hicas computer wire (to kill the hicas warning light) and somehow still had heavy steering. what all the tutorials i have read fail to mention is if you dont plan on removing ALL the hicas gear and just looping it at the back like i did. then there is a solenoid in your engine bay under your intake manifold that you have to unplug also... then reset the ecu. i did this yesterday and my steering is back to normal

mallala in adealdie sorry yea i cant quite link just yet. im litterally giving the clutch the biggest hammering kicking the crap out of it 3 or 4 times on the more high speed corners to get the old non turbo powered shitter spinning the wheels lol other wise it tries to grab the road an throw you forward with naaaaasty understeer. rb25det is on the cards... might rip the 25 out of my other 32 for a bit of a power upgrade...

hey. was at my first drift prac last night and it was seriously the most fun ive ever had in my life (may sound sad but its true). MANY MANY more to come! anyway, i noticed a few SAU stickers about and i was wondering who was who from there last night? like who are you and what car were u driving? an do you hit the track much? personally i was in the shitter white rb20de powered R32. just something to start out in... it's only mods are; extractors w/ 2" exhaust POD xtreme 5 puk HD clutch 16" volks F: 6 / B: 7.5 (both with shitty 2nd hand tires ) duck taped hand brake button welded diff learnt not to back off when sideways with a welded diff haha, i span out on almost every corner on my first lap haahaha, but towards the end i picked up some good slides....

or u can sell to me in adelaide

steel pin and hammer

mate this is over rated. fact is, yesterday you agreed to lend me some springs you've had for ages until saturday. and today you ask for them back to sell them when i just installed them. and "46 minutes" ago you told me i could hang on to them until they sell. so u just changed the deal basically. thats why im angry man. its a head f**k that i have to go and uninstall them after one day when u told me i could loan them for saturday drift prac. it's only 4 days away now and you try sell them in a rush today? do you think i would have borrowed them if u were going to ask for them back a day later? no. i dont see how im over reacting.