Ginkgo Biloba

i just changed from some of the old Michelin pilot SX (not available now) and everyone i spoke to said Yoko C-drives were the Sh!t, and that once i used them id never use another tyre. Well thats the biggest load of crap! unfortunately i did little research and just got the C-drives. Soon after learn that they replace the A539's, which while good, are never going to be michelin pilots! These tyres ride super quiet, and are really comfortable, but on hard braking they lock up much easier than the pilots. Turn in and bite is far less positive, and on fast sweepers the car seems to subtly creep out and not hold the line. Im not saying the C-drives are bad tyres, but when comparing them to a tyre such as a pilot then you see why you pay so much for the michelins. while you can find performance tyres on a budget, the "best street tyres" will always be the most expensive each company has to offer! eg, im sure if you can foot the budget you wouldnt be disappointed with top level yoko AVS's, Pilot Sports, and Bridgestone Potenza's. i saw someone mentioned yoko AVID S306's as good tyres! Sorry but have to disaggree! they are good if you like quiet tyres, but not if you like grippy tyres. I ran a set to about 50% then changed them for some potenza's. Bottom line, S306's are yoko's bargain "ECONOMY" passenger car tyre. Not what you want if you drive a car with some power. very easy to brake tracktion and lock up under braking.. these were on 19's, so probably exacerbated by the ultra low profile.

whats an aac valve?

skylinegeoff its true Johns courage and effort is admirable. As for credibility, none is better than bad. You know how much time can be taken up be responding back and forth to threads on forums, hence why i rarely post. I would rather "lurk in the fringes" than waste time arguing stupid points with keyboard warriors. you may not like what i posted and ill be the first to admit it was harsh having a go at so-and-so and his mate, but as far as offering something valid, the rest of my post is valid. The "freak" stock ECU issue has come up before and unless the UAS test car has secret mods, it has a freak ECU. Stating that the car made more power than any other rb25 skyline out of hundreds means nothing if the ECU is not typical. Simple as that. Dont get me worng, im not bagging UAS or their product, what i am saying is that the general impression from the after test is that any 33 owner can throw on the plenum package and with their stock turbo and stock ECU make 200+rwkw which is just not going to happen. SOMEONE TELL ME IM WRONG, how many stock ECU and stock turbo cars make 200+rwkw? Sure there are a few, literally a few. And do you think these few were secretly released by nissan amongst the masses of R33's produced? No, they have been reprogrammed.

21yrs old, just joined forums, a 34GTR, me smells a birthday present sorry dude, had to be done

do they have "no camera's please" signs at servos?

only as good as the car its in :exactly. its like getting a FC tuned for a car with x,y,z mods. It is optimised for those mods. Put the same ecu on a car with a,b,c mods and you could stuff your engine.

i dont think he really needs the "slow down advice" i think he knows that now. Is bad to crash but does add to experience. A lot of people that HAVENT crashed in the wet dont actually realise how little traction there is, (like myself when i wrote off my first car in the wet) so its expensive but a great lesson to learn earlier on rather than later. happened to a mate, but not a gts4, gtst. parts were around 1500, not including replacing the rims!. As said its the labour that will sting. Mate was able to do all the labour himself, apart from some lower sill damage which required panel beating. Your lucky the body's ok!

The server is too busy at the moment. Please try again later. this seems to happening HEAPS at the moment! whats the deal?

yeah was a gtr bar. it was laughable!

also i guess i shouldnt say ALL Mings stuff is crap from only witnessing one crappy bar. He could well make some good stuff too

N/A in regards to your post about "everyone getting bodykits from MING/Aero Image" explain that. In my opinion and EXPERIENCE if you are considering a bar from MING, you'll be better off making it from paper masche (spelling!?)!!!!!! I ordered a front bar thru him, took one close look at it and sent it straight back. It was SO backyard looking. finish was extremely crap, vents were shallow and it hardly imitated the genuine bar it was supposed to. I went straight to UAS after that, and have ordered pretty much a whole kit thru them. Yes they are not the cheapest but i cant fault the quality, and im REAL fussy. Bear in mind that some peoples idea of "GOOD QUALITY" is really AVERAGE quality! My idea of a "quality" kit (a copy) is a PERFECT kit. And so far everything ive got from UAS has been just that. Even before preparation they look smart. UAS have numerous sources for their kit, and im sure they dont get it all from Ming. Actually id say MOST people that tell you something is "oh yeah perfect quality mate! As good as you'll get!" are pulling the other one. Then again a lot of customers dont have an eye for quality anyway, so it may not bother them. -btw not bagging the guy selling kits thru here, just sharing my experiences. Choose your suppliers with care!

twin plates are not at all necessary on the street unless your running huge power and 4wd. I like many others recently hooked up a Extreme single plate ceramic button clutch with sprung centre, and pres plate, which offers awesome bite, no chance of slipping. The best thing is that its not at all jerky and is very user friendly unlike multi plates (also no rattling that the multi plates get).

Apparently if you drive a type R integra, you will love it. A friend of mine took one for a test drive, and says you wont realise how good it is till you experience it. He also says it feels faster than it actually is, and really puts you into the seat when accelerating. Handling also awesome, and if i had to drive an NA it would prob be something like that.

I chose tein adjustables over hypers of the same cost, as i was told hypers are stiffer, when the teins are already stiff! Hyper better suited to track than street apparently.

where bouts in syd are you? if close would like to see, cheers

tried to call your number, not working? chek ur pm

What car did you have it on? what power did it make, at what boost? can you go any lower in price? interested, cheers

Red900ss is the price you listed for 33 GTS-t slotted AND cross drilled? If so, im in for the fronts only.

they are not bad. no real life experience with them, but have heard a bit about them. Done a lot of research myself, and decided to go the next level up in the falken range, the Azenis ST115's. The tread pattern looks awsome on the GRB451's, and i havent heard anything bad about them. The falken Ziex i have heard bad things about.

You keep talking about this Elf stuff as if its gonna turn a stock RB25 into a huge beast! And what your suggesting, tuning the car to run on elf, is not something that youd do just for one run. Whats the point in saying i did 13.x on elf, when your cars not tuned for it for daily use? And even if you tuned it, without a programmable computer you cant do a whole lot to "optimise it". And anyway, its my understanding that a higher octane fuel protects against detonation. It burns slower, which is why you can up the timing to get a bit more power. But the real gain would be seen by upping the BOOST, which your not gonna do coz then it wont be stock. And yeah, what BigAl said!

thanks for that merli!

it seems people have asked questions about this EBC before, but there were no replies from anyone who actually has one. Anybody using one yet? I think the price is quite good ($745 retail) for a "supposedly" top line EBC, when the blitz dual SBC-spec S (single solenoid) is around 800 bucks retail. My main interest is running different boost in different gears. Can anyone tell me how EBC's with this function keep track of what gear your in? cheers all.

yeah dude, i doubt 3.4 sec as well... i would say thats impossible on street tyres!! i dont think any RWD street car will be able to crack the low 4 seconds, apart from these "street" cars in japan running Nittos and 10sec qtrs! I remember i test done with propper equipment on Kingsley Heads GTR 32, big single conversion, and i think he was only just in the high 3sec to 100 bracket. BIG power and RWD on street=inability to do exceptional 0-100's!! The power becomes a problem rathere than an aid in low gears.

This sound is turbo reversion. If you want it, tighten up the spring on you BOV, then you'll get this when you back off with partial boost. If this sound is made when you back off on full boost, then your BOV is adjusted too tight. I too love this flutter sound, i have a KnN pod, cone type, and a type 3 turbosmart BOV. I adjust it so it causes flutter when i back off with less than 10 psi boost. If i back off with over 10psi, the BOV opens and get the full PSHH noise. Apparently the reversion flutter is not too bad for the turbo under low boost levels. Take your BOV off altogether, and all you will get is massive flutter! sounds cool, but turbo prob wont last!