Turbo Tits

anyone know where to get one for a reasonable price? i cant believe they ask up to 200 bucks for a slither of fibreglass.

the race retails at 390$. boss extra. where can you get them for 300$ id love to know as i want a wheel soon!

hi, nice review, did the sales guy say that the yokos were on par with the mich's? as im a bit of a fan of yokos, and wouldnt mind giving them a try. where do the mich preceda's sit in the michelin range? ive driven on Mich Pilot SX's (i think now replaced by pilot sport?) and the grip is bloody incredible in the dry, and even in the wet! But to look at the tread pattern it doesnt look that aggressive which goes to show that the tread appearance really means stuff all when relating to the tyres performance. eg check out the fully aggressive pattern of the falken 451's, yet ive been told these still spin up with not too much effort.

hey man... dont you watch CSI??? if youve kept got some of the crap off your car... have a friendly chat with this kids father and tell him wat happened. ask him if he has any putty/bog/filler around and if you can have some to compare with what was on your car. thats what id do. if he gets offended and pissed off... oh well, at least you tried. i dunno man, you need to do something... wat happened to your car was so flucking wrong!

the configuration of the cylinders has no bearing on an engines reliabilty. it is the quality of design and engineering, the ammount of development, and successful execution in production of each engine that will determine its reliability. its probably more to the point that early australian and american engines were of a generally lower standard on a global scale that made them inferior. just a thought, im positive there are exceptions. but im sure you'll all agree that the 4 cylinder out of a Torana Sunbird was a bag of baboon balls.

the sooner the alarm goes off the better, no? if the alarm started blazing after a theif had only JUST lifted the handle from the body, i would assume that about 30 seconds or so would be needed to remove the entire handle and find the door lever mechanism. that would feel like a LONG 30 seconds with an alarm going off in your face. In most cases, the alarm wouldnt go off until the door is wide open and the thief is already in your car. from that moment, only 10 to 15 seconds are needed to grab wateva he/she wants or to do a quick search-and-grab. in the end, you can never have enough security, even if this may be taking things a little too far. on the other hand, if someone was going to break into your car to steal something they can see through the window, most of the time they just smash the window, grab your gear and run. realistically, none of our cars are safe. even though some, like myself, keep their cars securely garaged when not in use, i can recall a few times when ive had to lose sight of my car for a while in public places. and a few seconds is all someone needs, be it with a screwdriver, hammer, or body filler .

to help feel better about yourself

come to think of it, ill do it to my car, work out the cost, and offer my services to those less abled car enthusiasts

I take it from the pics that for a theif to open the door unlawfully, they have to remove the door handle? if you had the skills, or knew someone who does, a thought would be to install a grounding (push type) switch (the same kind as your door switch that turns your interior light on when you open your door) behind the door handle, so that if the handle was to OPEN, so to speak, as in come away from the car say 5mm... the alarm would go off, as you can connect the switch to the door switches, which are connected to your alarm. if your skyline is an everyday car, this could be a wise modification to your alarm system. you could set it so the handle only has to move a fraction before the alarm goes off, making the theif boogy out of there, minimizing the damage to your door. come on guys... you know this is a good idea

your best bet would be to do a search... this has been talked about to death. You will be able to access the information you require instantly, instead of waiting for replies. But im sure most people will take this opportunity to offer their 2cents. cya

i disagree that aftermarket ecu's can never run as smoothly as factory ones. all you need is a good ecu, very competent tuner, and the money to keep going back for fine tuning. afterall... factory ecu's are programmed by humans too... the only difference is that your average car manufacturer has a team of professionally educated boffins trained to tune their motors and the money to pay them. if only your average joe was so lucky.

hey guilty... got the same cooler, looks shmick huh good luck with the install... post some pics when its finished, cya.

http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/sh...&threadid=16592

calling all aussie rules football players, 'ass-spanking-poofter-nancy-boys-who-could-never-muster-the-coordination-to-play-soccer', is also a good way to start a heated discussion. cya girls :shake: maybe i should start a thread?

had another read, still says full boost at 3000 was replying to the quoted post not the above one, i must have been skipping around the thread a bit.

do a photoshop job first dude.

whats a TD06 worth? sounds awsome. I also have heard of a TD05/6, anyone else heard of this? apparently good upgrade for RB25 and has very quick spool up with good top end, although full boost by 3grand from the 06!! damn isnt that as good as standard?

GCG stage 1 hi flow turbo requires 22psi to make 450hp at the engine, as stated in a previous related thread.

man who knows... when calling DBA a few weeks ago the person on the other end didnt seem to have a clue, and had all the part numbers mixed up... so you could be right, but she gave me a price for x-drilled and slotted, so i assumed they made them!

cross drilled looks hell tough, thats reason enough! the drilling wont cause the disc to crack if it has been designed for cross drilling. 4000's come in both cross drilled and slotted.

quote: Now, has anyone tryed using Thermo-pudic pistons? never heard of thermopudic pistons. Eutectic/ hypereutectic? relating to silicon content?

Skyr33, your avatar is bloody classic! Seriously, there should be an avatar competition on here for the funniest one!! Awesome work! did you make it yourself?

It might be useful to mention that the 2JZ's stock internals are good for 10 second 1/4s, provided the rest of the car is set up properly. You cant go wrong with a 2J, funds permitting.

Hi Instant. I was very vigilant when it came to monitoring the setup for the first few weeks, and the filter remained completely dry on every occasion. I havent had any problems in any rainy weather condition. But I wont be performing any shallow water crossings. In regards to the front left tyre, you can see in file, "intake 007.jpg" and "intake 008.jpg", that the filter is completely protected. Yeah, I have wondered have an officer might say about it, if anything at all. I'll let you know if I'm unfortunate enough to have the experience (touch wood). See ya.

Lambo, tis an oil catch can. I dont like where it is though... in fact i dont even like the thing altogether. its way bigger than it needs to be, and just clutters up the engine bay. as far as diverting blow-by from your inlet, if youre not using a proper (legal) separator, you may as well skip buying a catch can and lead the breather hoses under the bloody car. its a defect either way, and the latter is much neater. as to your problem... if you ask me, you simply need a deflector to shield the pod from direct water spray and debrit. i dont believe vents are necessary as air will be sucked into the pod from anywhere and everywhere. the cooler air outside the engine bay does not need to be blowing onto the pod, as long as the pod is out of the engine bay, the cooler air wil be sucked into the pod from all directions. If youre planning to make it yourself, dont make it more complicated than it needs to be. good luck. oh, do you like my turbos?