rs73

Yes, they are 296mmx32mm - $<<price removed pm to GB members only>> GB price incl GST. shozbot, which one u're after, I'll let u know. a few ppl have probs with the zip file but others dont. this forum don't allow me to upload excel.

according to DBA catalog R34 GTT can use the same front 296mm with r33 but RDA did say there are some 310mm which is harder to get, I will ask again.

If any of you prefer pickup there are locations as follow... http://www.rdabrakes.com.au/contact.htm Just let me know which one you prefer, pm me, please it's hard to track replies over 5-6 pages of thread here.

robbo33, i'll add you in, check ur pm soon.

It still make sense to have slightly bigger rotors at the rear for R32 gtst as the RB20 is a lot lighter than RB25 and it's a RWD. When I cross-check with DBA catalogs, R32 GTS-t are listed as 280mm fronts and 297mm rears.

... and it is ok to cancel or change your mind at this stage. i.e. if you want to upgrade to grooved / dimpled rotors or downgrade to slotted only for any reasons, i.e. price. OH AND THOSE WITH R32 GTS-T i am sure your rear rotors are the same with R33 GTS-t but please can you double check if your rear rotors are 297mm or the smaller 266mm (I was guessing this is non-turbo) - it is best to be safe now rather than sorry later if it's too big to fit your caliper.

OK GUYS... They have branches in every major capitals and you can pickup at your local branches, or I can ask them to quote on shipping to each state. For the time being, have a look at the spreadsheet and let me know if there is any issues. All of you in the spreadsheet list should have received a pm from me containing the same info regarding part no, size and discounted price. So if you cannot open the spreadsheet, don't worry it's not the end of the world! And for the person in this forum who asked if he can buy a blank disc for his car, unfortunately the answer is no. You have to buy a whole crate of blank disc if you really want. I will keep this group buy on until Friday then while I get the shipping quotes and then we'll start finalising payment terms. For those who have not given me their Name & Delivery Details (in case they need to ship out), please pm me with your details. Your name & address will not be disclosed to any other 3rd party not related to this Group Buy activity. Regards, Rianto

For those who have R32 GTS-t, I was told some R32 GTS-t were delivered with smaller rear disc (but I was guessing this maybe the non-turbo), so please measure your R32 rear discs and tell me if you have the: - 266mm disc 7690S slot or 7690G dimpled, or - 297mm disc 908S slot or 908G dimpled (same as R33 gts-t rears)

heslo, yes we are going ahead, will update prices soon, what rotors do you need? Flash89, yes you can. i will add you to the list ASAP, watch ur pm space soon.

I was told for R33 GTR it is not 7691, but 7701 front and 7702 rear. Fronts are 324mm, if you measure it urself using a tape than it's not 100% accurate. but 4mm you're pretty close to the actual size.

It works out about 75% from the price list I put on the first post. some are 74.9xxx % some are 76.00xx% so it's workout about 25% discount. For example R33 gtst front are now $<<price removed pm to GB members only>> per pair excl GST, discounted from the $275 RRP. by the way all r32 gstt owner need to check if their rear rotors are 266mm or 297mm same like r33 gtst.

nsanity, Ive got u listed as front and rears. there's two lines there, the line below your name don't have the number 26, that one is still belong to you. sorry but I can't find a way in this forum to post with table structures, so it's kinda quirky. Also an update, Scott from RDA is back from his leave, he was back tracking all emails and I've spoken to him, he should send me an updated price list today, and I will inform you all tonight after I got home from work. Thank's for all your patience.

Yes, 908 is the part no. I'll update the list tonight after work.

Hi, It's not closing yet I'm waiting for scott from RDA to come back from his leave, hopefully he is in tomorrow (monday) and I'll ring him tomorrow. I'll send you a pm ASAP to get your details when orders will be put through, but I'll confirm the final discount price and let you all know. 7693 front & 908 rear are correct, they will swap straight to your standard original rotor and fit the original calipers. The more expensive one you mean slotted & dimpled, right?

You can't keep the shaft mate, auto and manual drive shaft has different length. If you talk about ratio what you mean must be the diff. Yes you can keep the diff in this case, I kept mine 1:4.3 diff from auto, but you use more petrol as it's about 5% higher than manual's 1:4.11 and that means when your speedo shows 100km/h, you're actually only travelling 95km/h and to be in the same actual speed with another manual R33 skyline, you'll need to travel at 105km/h according to your speedo, which means you'd be running in 3000rpm instead of 2600rpm for example when on 5th gear cruising on freeway and use more petrol. Acceleration wise people say it'll feel stronger than factory manual diff, as most aftermarket diff like Kaaz or Nismo for R33 skyline are made in 1:4.3 ratio. But to this date I have not felt any difference yet. Best is to get an experienced mechanic to do the conversion, think about $5000 all up depending how much it cost you to get parts. That was how much it costed me 3 years ago including all parts and labour (minus gearshift knob) but my price included timing belt change since the engine is out of the bay. You may want to change your timing belt while your engine is out if you decided to go with the manual conversion. 280+ rwkw is doable in RB25 but you'd probably need to start doing a full rebuild of your engine. That I heard is at least around $5000 to do. Stock RB25 internals won't last long at over 250rwkw.

has anyone tried Nismo diff, and are they quieter than Kaaz? also has anyone recorded the sound of a noisy mechanical diff? I wonder what it sounds like kinda hard to imagine as I've never heard one doing normal operation or during a 3 point u-turn, etc.?

the first 2 weeks they opened in narre warren, we drove all the way down there from sunbury, and got ourselves 4 dozens of orginals and another 2 dozens of mixed sampler. we got so sick of it, even when we didn't finish it all 6 dozens cos we gave away like 3 dozens to colleagues, relatives, and friends. but we did return after a month and got 2 dozens, and last week my bro in law bought another dozen, and there's still one left in the box after a week. i think they're so sweet till it could last a whole year without degrading.

I seen you and quite a lot of other forum members got some funky car graphics in the signature, where did u get 'em?

Without the Z32 AFM and ECU it'll be very hard to get your target of 250kw. Stock RB25 AFM maxed out around 210rwkw. And you can't use Z32 AFM with stock ECU, u'll need something like PowerFC or any other aftermarket like Wolf3D, Motec, etc. But I forget you had an auto so PowerFC is out of the question. Fair enough, but maybe you can use Z32 AFM and Apexi SAFC to "trick" the stock auto ECU to think you still have the RB25 AFM there, or some tuners I heard put a resistor in the AFM wiring to trick the ECU as well. Both way will still need time to mock around on dyno to get it right. Most stock ecu R33 gts-t only get up to about 180rwkw~190rwkw when tuned by a good tuner, above that the ECU just can't handle the extra boost and getting itself confused. With piggy back like SAFC that may be a solve to your problem, but I had SAFC before and I only get up to about 180rwkw before I decided to not further trying and switch to PowerFC. Your stock turbo while can be boosted to 12psi, it may not last that long on daily basis. Most people I know wind it back down to 10psi to maintain reliability. That's why you need bigger turbo, but if you don't want to have a 400kw drag monster that lags down below, you'll need to keep to either GT25 series turbo or GT-RS, otherwise you can have GCG to rebuild and hi flow your stockie. Most of the time you can't have the best of both world, mate. You either have to choose one or the other. Last resort is you can try supercharging your rb25 for low rpm response and then using a clutch system to stop the supercharger overspinning up to x rpm and from then on your big (e.g. T51) turbo would have already spooled up and kicks in. But this exercise is very expensive, and from the engine management point of view can be very hard and complex to tune - it's almost not worth spending the money on it.

Yep, You'll still need to rewire the plugs but it's a lot easier job, and as yours is '94 gtst so it'll be the S1 R33 AFM like my '93, so the wiring translation is more like one to one. Series 2 ('96-98) R33 AFM needs two of the wires joined together to one Z32 AFM's wire. Doing it all in one go is a good idea if you can reach deep into the pocket and have all the dollars up front now. I had to slowly do mine over a period of 4 years span... as I'm not someone who can pull money out of my ears just like that. in the end it's more expensive I believe (e.g. going to dyno 5-10 times instead of 2-3 times), but I got no choice. But I don't regret my efforts, and the car has come to a state where I'm happy with the power..

nsta, Get the Z32 AFM plug, go to nengun and go into the tomei/nismo afm product page and there is a link to get the plug in that page. It comes with a proper plug so save you the hassle of trying to butcher the socket on the AFM to suit your RB25 plug. The plug came with about 10-20cm length of wires and you just need to cut off the wires of your stockie plug and match up the ground, air flow signal and 12V power wires together. There's a chart somewhere on this forum, just do a search on DIY section. and by the way your tyres should be sufficient, providing they're not some dodgy ultra-long-lasting rubber that just doesn't grip at all. I had 235/45R17 Dunlop SP3000A only on my cars, pretty grippy, not as grippy as SP9000 or S-03 as most people said but that is still enough. I've never heard of BC shocks but I've got a full whiteline shocks, bushes and swaybars. That really stabilises the car and remove that unpredictable twitchy rear end on power acceleration.

hm, the catalyst is on the passenger side and you ran the cable over to the other side (driver's). does it comes with all mounting point so it doesn't accidentally get snagged by the spinning drive shaft?

700cc injectors might be an overkill for your target of 250rwkw. I made 230rwkw with Bosch975 in tank fuel pump, HKS2535 and 16psi boost on standard injectors and stock airbox. To get up to here I needed a Z32AFM, powerfc and the usual 3" exhaust and a good FMIC (turn-flow ARC intercooler, which is only about 50cmx24cmx6cm, much smaller than the commonly used 60x30x6 or 7cm). I estimated to get 250rwkw you may need to do: 1) slightly bigger turbo e.g. the HKS2540 or GTR-S, 2nd hand can be picked up from as low as $1500-1600 to $2000-ish depending on condition. 2) and perhaps a set of NIsmo 555cc injectors or probably 6x JDM S15 480cc injectors could be sufficient already. I recommend getting BRAND NEW for $600-900 a set. Your stock AFM will max out so you better source a BRAND NEW Z32 AFM for $400-ish. Get Nismo or Tomei or Bosch, they're exactly 100% OEM NIssan AFM just being sold through different channel. These 2 (injectors and afm) are the only things I strongly recommend worth paying the extra $ to get brand new only, everything else (turbo, fmic, exhaust, powerfc, etc) can be 2nd hand. Then at my current level my stock coil is struggling so I was recommended to get a set of Splitfire coils if I want to get more power with more boost - that's another $600-800. I stick with my stock one for now, happy with 230rwkw. with splitfire I may end up about 240rwkw and nearing the efficiency of my small 2535. 3) no idea about clutch, but currently I had the hybrid exeddy clutch single plate installed during my auto-to-manual conversion about 3 years ago. not saying auto is bad, but I bought my auto and after almost a year, I missed driving a manual (a manual driver for 14 years - I just cant get used to leaving my left foot idle). For your auto gearbox, you may need your stall converter and drive belt strengthened - probably contact auto trans specialist. $$$ wise I'm not sure. 4) with power on the top you're most likely always loose response down below. for comparison my stock turbo boosted at 10psi only made 190rwkw max but a lot more responsive and press you at the back seat hard. with only marginally bigger one like HKS2535 that sensation is "softened" a bit, although an increase of 40kw to 230rwkw is noticeable. fitting a cam gear ($300-ish) and have it tuned, the tuner can move that power band by moving the torque lower, but you loose top end. Or if you want to go to dyno power war, move the power up at the top range, but it will become laggier and less responsive. You'll need to ask yourself a question what you really want and decide which trade offs you prefer. and after all those, don't forget tuning and fitting labour cost can easily cost you from $500-$1000 unless you know a mate with a dyno and a hands-on person yourself with powerfc tuning and stuffs. Oh and for boost controller (u will need one if you want to go over 7psi) if you can afford it get the electronic ones like Apexi AVC-R or HKS EVC. Maybe from $300 to $1000 depending if used or new, could be less for older models. A cheap bleed valve is sufficient but I've seen some dodgy well known branded bleed valve that creeps and spikes and could have killed my engine 3 years ago if my tuner didn't find out soon enough that it's stuffed (I'm not gonna start naming brands). There's a non-branded one in blue colour going around in this forum and from people's story they hold boost well, but I personally haven't used them. I used HKS EVC.

no worries.

Hi Guys, The group buy is not off yet, I was told by RDA that our contact, Scott, is away (on leave) until Friday tomorrow. So most likely I will hear from him about pricing, etc tomorrow or early next week (Monday). Sorry for any inconveniences, as him going on leave is out of my control. If any of you have time-critical schedule to get the rotors on your car for whatever reason (motorsport etc), and cannot wait any longer and need to back out now I can understand, that's fine just let me know. And as a few members expressed concern, this order is not finalised yet until I hear the discounted price and get back to all of you. Don't get too worried, I won't be putting everyone into unintentional "contract of sale" and get caught up in unexpected price at the end. Only when you agreed, then we'll proceed with finalising your order, payment and delivery costs for those who choose to get delivered. I've organised about 3 or 4 skid pan days back in 2003 & 2004 without any dramas or hassles, and I intend to keep it hassle-free as well for this group buy.