rs73

could be tyre scraping the giuard during turn in/hard cornering, combined with low ride suspension. check the top part of your wheel house guard, u might sometimes find the missing chunks stuck up there.mine did (lots of right hander @ calder & winton)

Is Chasers still around? I've only went passed there (Dynon Rd) a few times a while ago but didnt notice if the workshop still there.

U refer to benno at racepace or chasers? 2 Bens confuses me.

V Spec, I do have a dump already, which is an HKS dump and it bolts on to the stock turbo, and should bolt on to the 2535 too!

I;m checking out what other alternative workshops out there and if their workmanship is comparable to the high quality of what i'm gonna use... I'm way too fussy for any kind of cowboy jobs.

I thought they specialises in Hondas? my bros euro was tuned there...

Is this the same benny that used to be in BMT or Chasers?

Yeah around north... I'll check EAS too.

Thank's, I'll look them up and ring around for quotes. Havent done anymore trackdays, 100,000km service coming soon and I wanna make sure everything is healthy before bringing it to anywhere above that 5000rpm+ zone again ;-)

Hey Ant... yeah long time no see, you weren't at the BBQ last weekend? Busy with the new baby must be... :-) Where is this ATP, I couldn't see it in the sticky list of Victorian workshop.

I've got a 2535 waiting to go in. Got the elbow and oil return pipe, basically almost complete except for gaskets, which are cheap/easy to make. This is a direct bolt on with T3 flange so shouldn't be too much dramas. In terms of worksmanship, I wanted an installation that is neat and keeping everything looking nice & tidy under there with heat shield everything still in place to prevent under bonnet heat issues. Keeping that criteria in mind, who would you personally recommend to do the installation in Melbourne metro?

Maybe the autometer boost gauge sensor was placed at the wrong location?

I agree. 5 & 8 psi should somehow make a bit difference. Did you try both on dyno for reading and on the street test drive? Most installation I saw is actually blocking off one of the hoses from solenoid. Better still a lot people removed the solenoid out of the whole scene and solely rely on the boost controller.

This has been covered so many times in this forum if you do a search on factory boost gauge. The factory boost gauge is not in psi, but in Hgmm. (mercury). At +7 Hgmm is equal to 1 Bar or around 14psi. Does this answer your question straight away? How high did u rev your car? The 2nd stage of factory boost solenoid doesn't really kicks in until about 5000rpm+ Again with a car that's travelled 100,000km chances are there's a brittle/cracked hose somewhere, hard to find a real pain when there's so many hoses in there. Or even the boost solenoid has stopped working properly due to getting dirty or just getting old. You'll have to check everything and clean it if possible.

Sounds like another one of those "urban legends"

Spoke to my tuner he just had another R33 with HKS2535 and he tuned it just fine with std FPR, Injectors and AFM. I may have to pull out as it may not be necessary in my case, but let me re-confirm with him when I give him a call again sometime next week.

Are you actually experiencing turbo lag? I would have thought that an RB25 turbo will need more exhaust gas to spool up the turbo nicely. After all, that's why Nissan's engineer put RB20 turbo in R32 and RB25 turbo in R33. Looks like ur ECU starts to get confused with the "alien" turbo that doesn't behave as it's suppose to be. Do you have aftermarket air/fuel controller e.g. SAFC or even a piggy back Greddy E-Trust/HKS F-CON or a full replacement computer PowerFC? The cheapest alternative is to get ur stock R32 ECU re-mapped. DR_DRIFT here on this forum can do that, and there's a few other mechanics out there who specialises in re-programming R32 ECU chip.

Does anyone with those power figure knows if it's done in shootout mode? My 192rwkw was not done in shootout. I was told it will actually read higher in shootout mode however I don't know by how many kw higher.

PS: I found that the forum didn't notify me at all when u guys reply to my thread.

Space Goat - If it's the gtr, I think they have different injectors for RB26 compared to RB25. They normally won't fit vice versa, but I could be wrong as I heard someone using RX7 injectors as well but not sure on RB25/26. Geoff, I have a Bosch 950 installed in tank, but still with a std FPR. So I'm sure there's no problem with fuel pump, should I upgrade to a Nismo FPR or equiv? RPM set my boost at around 10 or 11 psi as I told him I don't wanna blow my std turbo just yet while I'm looking for a HKS2535. race_snooze: that's a good number for a std pump & fpr. what turbo n boost u ran?

Well I've been close to 90% injector duty for 192rwkw with std turbos. With a 2535 going in, I'd imagine something has to be done in the injector department. Not sure if simply fitting a Nismo FPR will give a bit more room?

When will the deadline to pull out? I'll need to confirm with the tuner whether my AFM will maxed out with the 2535/PFC combo or whether he can get around the AFM issue.

I am interested. Need one. Will need shipping to VIC

I haven't seen anyone fitting these on and everyone seems to be going straight to 550cc aftermarket injectors when upgrading their injectors due to new turbos. However if one would want something in the low 200rwkw power output, would a Z32 480cc injectors fit onto RB25DET and do the job just fine?

Try bringing it directly to an auto mechanic, instead of your normal oil change/dyno tune mechanics. It'll help if you remove the door trim prior to visit so they don't have to charge you the labour to do it. $70 mate's rate last time I fixed mine. public rate? not sure but I reckon around $100-ish.