rs73

As Poombah said, they're factory options. They're not an adapted R31 system, but it is a native R33 options available when purchasing the car new in Japan. THere's probably lots of other weird factory options that you would never think of, like raising parking pole on the far side (LH) of the front bumper to aid in parking manouver, I have this on my r33, but it's not working as I'm sure it's been disable due to not meeting ADR requirements during compliance.

In regards to corrosive effect on metal fuel parts, this is from the Shell's website FAQ... Now if the Optimax Extreme may not sound too bad for metal parts, in regards to rubber fuel parts shrinkage issue, perhaps changing all your fuel lines, basicaly anything that is made from rubber, to braided steel lines. Of course it's recommended to use ADR approved ones, e.g. made by Maltech in Geelong, whom some of us has organised a group buy with.

I think you will need a rubber mallet to shove that PowerFC into your car...

I can't make it, have to work today have fun guys!

I've seen a few S2 in reds, and seems like they stop making them in burgundy... the S2 red is much redder, not as wine as anymore...

There shouldn't be any legal issues fitting a newer engine to an older chassis. Vehicle modification guide from VicRoads (or check RTA/Regency if u're in other states) only bans fitting of an older engine into a newer car due to emission issue. However you still need to check with an engineer whether a factory power rating upgrade from RB25's 187kw to RB26's 206kw requires a brake upgrade as well. You probably can get away with it since a stock GTS-t 4 pot calipers are pretty good already. Maybe just get a slightly larger calipers e.g. a GTR 324mm calipers with an adapter to fit ur GTS-t calipers on it, or even better, get the full front GTR brembo setup. I hope you do buy a full front half cut since it is cheaper this way you get brakes etc. I assume even if your engine is complete, it doesnt include AFMs? In that case you'll need 2 GTR AFMs, intercooler piping to suit (easy). Better leave the wiring loom to an auto electrician, cos that can be frustrating to work with, and you don't wanna fry your ECU or anything by joining the wrong wires. I also heard that the GTR sump may hit something under there, e.g. the steering rack, if so maybe get a custom sump to suit your conversion. You'll need different dump pipes and exhaust too.. That's all I know/heard of... good luck with the conversion...

auto electrician. took mine to one, they just pull out the motor, clean it or whatever and put it back in. works again now... only cost about an hour labour...

Timing chain??? Hm... something new everyday... I haven't seen any cars with timing chain.

r33_racer, that's a great price on Bosch Z32 AFM... where can we get some and what part no? for that price I'm sure anyone would choose that over a 10-yr old Z32 AFM... Was also advised by my tuner to try buying brand new injectors & AFM, anything else 2nd hand will do.

All cars would need a 100k timing belt nonetheless... Doesn't mean buying S15 there is no 100k timing belt change... It all depends how much km is on the car when you purchased it, both R34 & S15 are roughly from the same era, the S15 probably about 2 years younger by average but I've seen some S15 with higher kms than an older R34... Insurance might be cheaper but that again all depends on the market price or agreed value that you come up with your insurer. Currently the market price for a newer S15 probably similar with an older R34 GT-T (GT-R is another story). Also if things break, with 4-cyl you'll only have 4 pistons to fix, 4 injectors to fix, 4 coil packs, 4 plugs.... all these parts win over R34 by 2 each. Also you might be able to get parts from a locally delivered S15 from Nissan, some parts are not priced too bad and you won't have to wait ages for parts from Japan, or browsing thru Yahoo/Ebay auctions hunting for that hard-to-get 2nd hand parts. Petrolwise probably not much different, if you drive both cars hard, they'll both swallow a lot. Hell my R33 can be guzzling petrol like a hungry V8, but can be cruising along with a NA V6 economy if I just take it easy. Potential wise both cars have great potential for mods, but as mods increases, your servicing / maintenance / running cost, etc, would increase as well... it's a rule of thumb basically. But IMO the RB's 6-cyl would be a lot stronger and have more potential to easily make lots of power compared to teh 4-cyl SR. Plus the extra 2 cylinders and 0.5L capacity wins in the torque department. More torque = more fun. In the end, it's all up to your own preference. Looks, sound of that engine/exhaust note, colours, street cred, whatever turns you on... just choose the car you like and go out there and have fun enjoy it... just be wise and don't end up being a road toll statistic...

What would be the guide in deciding whether someone should go with a superlight shockproof or a heavy shockproof?

They're pretty hard to come by as I've seen 2nd hand prices go about $250-300. Some people even asked for $350! For that price I'd personally go to www.nengun.com and get one for $375-ish delivered! Brand New!

How does this mount, on to the lower seat belt mounting position? Does it require modification on the seatbelt mount?

I came across this and wondering if any of you has used the same product or something similar: (you may need to register (FREE) to view the page) http://www.nengun.com/catalogue/product/544 Brand Do Luck Category Suspension Innovative designs in suspension and chassis tuning to provide you the ultimate in performance handling. Do Luck offer a wide range of products to suite your needs. Rear Cross Bar (RXB) Designed to stiffen the middle of the chassis. Upper strut bars stiffen the front and back of the car but the middle of the car can still twist, the Rear Cross Bar helps to eliminate this twisting.

probably cos the basic function of turbo timers are too easy to copy that's why they're choosing this gadget as a first step... damn, gotta be careful of those ebay auctions these days....

I think he means pic of G35/V35 Skyline, not R34 GTR!

bloody funny! LOL... I wonder if they call it Brack Box, why isn't the Buddy Club brand spelt as Buddy Crub?

meh, an owner of such expensive cars would be able to afford to get the car fully insured... just one phone call and no worrys........ you're with AAMI (sing it like the ads)

base timing accidentally changed when re-fiting the new timing belt? it's a pretty easy mishap if the person putting timing belt on is not careful....

There's been a lot of thread about 2530/2535/2540 on RB20/25.... Probably the 2540 are the one to stay away from since they tend to be a bit too laggy for most people and not the best package out there. But I've also read where 2540 made some owners happy, it all depends how you like the power delivery to kick in.... Most people with RB20 as I read would benefit a lot from 2530, while the 2535 might be better for RB25 due to its larger capacity able to generate more exhaust gas to spool the 2535 earlier... but nothing stopping 2535 on RB20 to perform well with the correct tuning.

This is such a cracker! LOL

How would you sure doesn't look as nice? anything in auction photos looks nice. not to put you off, but I've seen a 15yo import in flesh, it looked very very good in the auction picture, once in here, all sort of things are wrong... panel blemishes, dents, toneau cover on the convertible roof perishes and torned, even the headlights are not automotive headlights and need to be changed! someone in japan must be putting some backyard spotlight as a light there... it's real f*rked. I felt sorry for the owner, had a few trouble in compliance shop as weel to get it complianced....

Well big company like Phillips would of course go through all ADR requirements before marketing their kit in Australia. They've got the financial capacity to go through it and it is passed onto consumers through it's higher price xenon kits. Most imported ones made by some overseas "drift" garage or chinese/taiwanese made won't even bother to go through ADR testing process cos their selling price would become the same with Phillips or even cost more (no mass production capacity compared to large company) and who would wanna buy their brand if you've got Phillips at the same price....

well if you're running in shootout 6 it should read higher, most r33 with fmic & 10psi boost can easily make 180rwkw on the dyno chart. something is definitely not right... are you sure: 1 your clutch is not slipping? 2 your tyres not slipping on the dyno roller? 3 your fuel pump is not dying? it happened to me and it confuses the ecu showing a/f is good but it's actually constantly retarding timing and i only reached no more than 150rwkw till i replaced the fuel pump. 4 in my experience with stock ecu, anything above 10psi boost will be a little bit hard for the stock ecu to manage, it'll get very confused, unless you have a freak one that handles 12psi ok. wait till u get powerfc before winding it up. 5. check other things that may contribute to the issue like your coil packs, fuel filter, plugs, and don't forget to check your base timing! had a mate who had weird pinging problem cos his base timing is way off.

I've got one as well, a 93 model... seen a few with sunroofs too but I agree, not many. It was obviously an expensive option to buy from the dealer when it was new... we'll all be laughing if they're all std feature across the range but hey, you're buying a skyline not a luxo-barge.