rs73

Thats funny.. i'm not expert on shocks & springs but is it you setup the ride height to be so low so that when the car is off ground, the distance between the lower spring seat and the top mount is so huge that the spring is literally not compressed anymore? But yours is R34, mine's R33 so I dunno...

Bass Junky... I got my whiteline kit rear springs rattle like crazy since day 1. Had the installers to wrap insulation tapes around the coils particularly the top section where the coil wounds closer (progressive rate springs). Solved the problem. Still rattle when I trail-brake from hi speed e.g. 100km/h to 80km/h on a bumpy 2nd class rural highway.

white smoke = water vapour blue smoke = oil burnt.... black smoke = running mega rich (too much fuel) or too much carbon deposit e.g. on older diesel engines....

I thought that comes packaged with certain alarm system

Have you got a picture on a real result and showing difference between guard rolling and guard flaring? I may be interested to either roll or flare my front guards since on previous trackdays it rubs and shaved a bit of my tyres and did a bit damage on the guard curve itself.

Nozila... tried to pm you but ur inbox is full... clear it please.. pcode is 3071 (home) or 3003 (work) pls get back to me re: shipping cost.

fark that's expensive.... at least u make it up with unrestricted speed... happy fanging around the state highways!

You need manual gearbox, pedal box, gear selector, tail shaft, gearbox mount & cross members, and lots of time (or extra cash if you're paying someone else to do it). You can get away with auto ECu for a while but won't be best, you'll need manual ECU, or better yet, get PowerFC since you have manual. You can keep your auto 4.3:1 diff but your converted car will use a bit more petrol and cruise at higher rev (4% higher) compared to factory manual. If you're keen, change your diff to 4.11:1 as well... check www.meggala.com got heaps of info there...

you can always buy adjustible cam gear, but I was told it's not worth the $ spent on a RB25, as our inlet cam are controlled by computer and it's pretty good already. GTR is another story. probably with auto most mods are just upped boost, exhaust and piggy back computer is sufficient if tuned properly. anything involving more hp than those basic mods will require rebuild auto gearbox and torque converter, and probably a shift kit device to make the auto box acts like a manual box (holding the gear) and changing gear needs to be done by moving the gear selector. this has been discussed many times in this forum, there's lots of thread about auto box.

It's quite fun to watch. Watched it last Sunday. Not really 100% in line with the cartoon, but the sideways actions are fun. But you can see how fake the guard rails are. I won't go into more details, go out there and watch it. That evening there was like 5 AE86 lined up in front of the Target. Even saw one white one getting pulled over by an unmarked car on my way home. I suppose getting too hot after the movie and decided to show off....

PowerFC doesn't work with Auto. Try looking at some piggy back computers like SAFC II or Greddy E-Manage.

Punting it around furthermore I saw my top AFM voltage is 4.3volts. So that's about 84.3% capacity at around 11 or 12 psi boost. So using that as a rough guide is it correct to say that my AFM would probably max out at about 14psi? Injectors are only up to about 43% though.... so injectors still got some more life in it....

Expensomax? Don't you use the dockets? You might wanna start calling it Fourcentoffmax... or Cheapomax (not that they're so cheap) I think it all depends which servo you're filling in. Based on what effect I felt on car performance after I refill: BP on Heidelberg Rd has better fuel than the nearby Shell on the same road, Shell on Bell St Preston has better fuel than this Heidelberg Shell, Mobil in Racecourse Rd feels better than the Mobil in Coburg's Bell St, and and the BP & Shell in Sunbury feels both has equal quality.

Thank's SK, great input as always :-) Shonen, on the R34, is that setting above 60 on a stock ECU, or a default setting on PowerFC for R34?

Glad to hear it's ok... Still some part of my questions haven't been answered yet... What's the maximum safe knock level for RB25 that I should watch out for? 20? 30? What's the maximum water temp to be considered safe? 100C? Also one more thing, I noted the AFM voltage hovers around 1200-1300milliVolt on idle... I thought the max stock AFM voltage is 1.5V (1500mV?) or 5V (5000mV)? I remmeber reading it somewhere on this forum... but can't remember

Hi man, I've been looking at peak figures on my HC and done a bit of search but can't find any info on the forum. On city driving with ocassionla zippy accel and mix of traffic jams, my Knock level tops out at 10, and water temp at 81C Car is running HKS EVC@12psi, FMIC, stock injectors, Bosch pump, 3" exhaust system, tuned to 188.5rwkw (normal, NOT shootout) on Optimax. 1) Are those knock level sounds ok? That happen on fast acceleration with gear change around 4500rpm only. What's the knock level to start getting worry? 2) What's the maximum safe water temp? is 81C safe? At this temp reading on my HC, the needle on my factory water temp gauge is sitting halfway.

Thats probably there in NSW... Here in VIC, my PowerFC knock only shows 10 on Shell Optimax. Haven't tried BP yet.

Hmmm... I don't think the blame is 100% on your injector. Sure it will flow more fuel than standard, but a 1000cc injectors should flow closely similar amount of fuel to 550 or 800cc injectors at the same engine load, rpm, boost and other parameters if tuned properly. The only difference is the bigger capacity your injector is, the more fuel they can flow to support bigger HP. I'd say check the state of tune on ur ECU (I assume you should have an aftermarket ECU), or check that your fuel pressure regulator is functioning properly. Sounds like your car has been tuned overly rich.

Wow, it's probably not worth doing it on our Skyline. Right-foot throttle self-restrain is probably still the best to try saving fuel. Or... how about V10 turbo diesel conversion

This is a great training day. I've organised the same thing for SAU guys a couple years back... about 5 groups in total from sept-03~feb-04. Kev from Driver Dynamics is a great mentor and is incredible at controlling cars with only slight throttle/steering modulation... a real PRO! next time better get in quick guys! :-) Rianto

you'll have to mention price, how much?

can a system from similar falcon/magna/commodore range be modified to suit rb? not sure about the engine management though.... that might need tweaking. will be intereste to see if anyone tried it.

If i have enough dosh to play around, I'd keep my R33 for a weekend hacking and a V8 soarer for a daily cruiser. :-)

.com.au didn't work, i think it should be www.fc-datalogit.com?

you're comparing apples and oranges. if you're after a luxury hi-way cruiser, then go the soarer. a heavy car like it is well suspended for a good cruise feel. a skyline in other hand, is more a handling car. you can always put a firm aftermarket suspension in soarer to make it handle even better than r33 gts-t, but that kinds of spoil the true purpose of soarers. i think both cars should be reliable piece of machinery when they're regularly had oil change & service. bad maintenance and wrong tuning especially when they're boosted up would surely gives u lots of problem, no matter skyline or soarer, rb or jz engine..