rs73

Have a look at Al's stock frontbar for a good example IMO. The centre bar has been chopped off, and the panel guy used plastic from the removed section to cover the C cutout section, smooth it out and repaint the whole bar. It looks factory and not like a DIY chop off job.

from the blue pic's angle it looks a bit Lancer Evo-ish... from another angle like the silver one looks a bit Altezza (Lexus IS300)

These rotors have good feedback from those who use them. If you all keen to get one, I saw there's a thread on group buy for these DBA rotors... check the Group Buy section.

Damn, I just got a new set of green EBC last month from another local workshop, was told that RB74 is actually better than EBC...

Well provided you didn't slam your gears to get there as fast as possible (like in drag racing) I suppose it will be more gentle on your engine and gearbox. However prolonged high revs to achive that top speed (e.g. 6000rpm in 5th) may possibly do some bad things to your engine/tranny, especially if the car is not in top condition.

How long would dba4000 discs last, how many times machining before it needs replacement?

Cool thank;s, does RB stands for Race Brakes' own products of brake pads?

If you have powerfc, will a flat battery cause loss of stored settings? Means another $400-500+ to get it re-tune?

Where do I buy RB74 pads from?

Gearing plays a part, then traction loss, and as well as aerodynamic drag... All this making achieving 250 possible top speed seems forever, best done on a very long straight like the Motor's top speed test in Avalon Airport or car testing oval circuit with cambered corner? An R34 GTR with 6 speed makes it possible to achieve more 250km/h Motor magazine I think had a modified R33 GTR achieving close to 300km/h

Sorry, I missed this.. if the speed sender is in the gearbox, then yes, you're right then... because my gearbox is now manual, the manual speed sender should be in the gearbox when I converted it, and I have a manual, 300kph nismo speedo. It was still the same case with stock manual speedo, 5% less, which is contributed to the different diff ratio.

Hm, when I'm doing 100 on my speedo, it is actually 91 according to the speed check LCD on Princes Hwy from Geelong to Melbourne. Mine is converted auto with stock manual gearbox and retaining the auto's 4.3 diff. Based on your argument, it's not half, it's only about 5%. I think a factory manual R33 with 4.11 when cruising along at 100, it will show around 96 or 97 on the same Geelong speed check display.

interesting, this is not entirely due to different diff ratio? (Auto = 1:4.3 Man = 1:4.11) ? By diff ratio comparison, it's about 4% difference.

On a 5 speed RB25 with 7000rpm cutoff, probably around 230-240. On a 6 speed RB26 (GTR) with 8000rpm cutoff you can get much higher than that.

Too wide won't be a very good idea, your tyre sidewall won't be sitting at |_| position, but rather /_ position, which means they won't perform as intended to and prone to sidewall failure if you don't keep the pressure up (you'll need to pump it up higher too making it too hard for the road for some people) With 7" wide rimes optimum tyre width would be about 225-235. Stock 6.5" wide would be 205-215 (225 max). 245 is more recommended for 7.5" and 255 for 8" rims. This is at least what I've remembered from various tyre websites.

you probably need new battery in that factory key. otherwise the remote central locking relay could be stuffed, or has been disconnected during compliance. not sure about this but if the compliancer feels it doesn't fulfill ADR requirements, it would have been disconnected.

buy one from www.nengun.com search for SARD they do fast delivery, last time i ordered it took a week delivery due to golden week holidays in japan, otherwise 3-5 business days are average time if they have it in stock.

finally got my motor fixed by an auto electrician, cost like $70 but it is advised that I start to look for a replacement motor, as the fix is still a bit dodgy, like it will slow down when the motor turns and hit the "bad spot", notchy operation...

CONGRATULATIONS Ant & Nat....

Well, spending $1200+ on PowerFC on a car with stock turbo is a more logical upgrade path than spending a fortune on aftermarket turbo first, since stock ECU will start behaving weird past 9psi & stock R33 AFM will maxed out above 12psi. Replacing your AFM with Z32 item will be useless if you still have the factory ECU as the ECU won't recognise the Z32 afm reading. You'll need to replace the ECU with PowerFC at the same time, since PFC has an option to recognize Z32 AFM on RB25.

Could it be the factory ECU not be able to cope with the new turbo? If so you might wanna consider a piggy back like SAFC or E-Manage, or even go full computer like PFC or Wolf3D, Motec etc...

An auto electrician near my place... when I was looking for a replacement without luck... As I said in my post if anyone can confirm this info correct or wrong that will be great.

I was told that even sealed batteries are now illegal. VicRoads or RTA wants to see a normal battery with a breather hose going into the boot floor and outside the car. As per stock original R33 battery. Not trying to rain on anyone's parade, if anyone can confirm this it'll be good. If sealed are a no no with RTA/Vicroads, better be careful if you're trying to go through a RWC process to get a car registered. PS My battery getting weak and I found a Denso battery replacement (unsealed) with a breather hose just like the stock R33 skyline, through a compliancer in VIC. I got them at trade price. A bit higher than original so you'll need to tilt it sideways to connect the negatives first, then tilt it the other way to fit the positives, then once it's flat you can secure it with the stock bracket.

Seems a bit bad from the closeups, especially third pic (call me perfectionist). I might consider if anyone can give me an idea of the cost to repair that rims and where to repair.

Happy Birthday Anthony!