rs73

Just suggesting something that you should check. I know it doesnt make sense, even in my case, but that's what the solution for mine anyway. I've had my dying pump almost a year before it was detected. On dyno the car made good A/F ratio of around 11.5:1 but tweaking the SAFC just doesn't want to change this. Very weird but the stock ECU seemed to compensate for the lack of fuel and fiddled with the timing. Only found out about the fuel pump when testing the fuel pressure and that's it. Got it changed over to a bosch item and the car is happy now with 12:1 A/F ratio and 192.5rwkw (before it wont go past 152rwkw in any boost level).

same thing happens to my car, engine wasnt happy for anything above stock boost, and it was a dying fuel pump.

Great meeting today guys... Glad to catch up with some of u who I havent met for ages too... I've got the member 0073, like my nick hehe.

I agree around 11.5 to 12.1 is the safest... anything above 12.5 on boost could mean trouble for the engine. on cruising not sure, but as long as no boost, i guess 14 is ok. 11 on cruise is way too rich, something is wrong man

Before you go out and buy FMIC and Plenum, (I personally think plenum is a bit overkill unless you have a rebuild engine and ready to run a giant boost/high HP application) do you make sure that your pinging is: - not caused by merely heatsoak from the stock intercooler? - dirty/stuffed plugs, or plugs with the wrong heat range installed? - bad injectors (leaning out)? - dying fuel pump? (not supplying enough fuel - lean mixture) - stuffed AFM? - blocked fuel line? - stuffed engine (do a quick compression test on all cylinders to make sure)? at the end of the day, I'd say go get fmic is good, but intake plenum hmmm... not always needed if u had stock turbo and running under 1 bar. u might better save the money for something else and get the greddy plenum till later. Many ppl on the forum can easily get 250rwkw with stock plenum, just exhaust, ecu, fmic and upgraded turbo.

Sorry off topic...C'mon nark... we've had our fair share of hail early this yr, damaged my bro's new Accord Euro (was 3 days old) and written off my neighbour's Eunos coupe (flooded). I was lucky only had 3 small dents on roof, and my shocks were still std height that time it happened.

What is the latest status of this meeting? Still on as per the info on the thread's 1st post? If so...... I Will Be THERE!

blocked cat converter?

Just interested with your test data, was it tested using stock clutch or aftermarket clutch? and was it auto or manual? Cos my auto when it was 100% stock was suppose to have 184kw and it made 138rwkw on dyno, so I'd imagine manual example should made well above 140rwkw with a good stock clutch.

My car came onto the same situation, sometime will stall when coming to a stop at traffic light, and rev would hunt sometime, but sometime ok. In my car it was a dying fuel pump. You might wanna check the fuel pressure to see if the car's fuel filter is dirty, if not, then could be fuel pump problem. Could be electrical too eg not earthed properly if it got aftermarket one, or maybe check the voltage supply to the fuel pump. But then again as said above, it could be dirty afm, could be the aac valve or idle control - there's so many parameters that you should taken into account. Just a food for thought.

thanks it makes sense now... you deserve a Herron now...

Interesting, so is there a way to increase airflow without increasing boost?

from all this experience, maybe the next time before ordering from japan, ask nengun, greenline or whoever u order from if Japan is having a series of public holiday week or not....

but will Nissan charge you a silly price tag? seen ur guys car like 95, 96 model, kinda scare me having a 93 R33, my wheel could be off anytime! omg.....

i had mine just trimmed at the back side to give enough clearance for the fmic. from a far that'll make my car look 100% stock. air flow wise won't be a majro issue for a low boost application.

Mearcat, i think there'll always be a risk to get things lost in the mail. but with EMS, it should be generally pretty safe as parcels have tracking numbers. Even when my FMIC was inspected by custom, every single bolt included were still complete inside the package when I received it. If you want an absolute 100% then you'd have to bring it over by yourself and not letting it out of your sight. ido09s, unfortunately that is one of the woes in buying things from overseas. depending on what is covered by local distributor, buying say a HKS product not through australian distributorship may not cover you for any warranty. you might have to send it back to japan to do that. however some local distributor may honour your warranty providing you can produce an invoice. best check with local distributors about this.

The last time FMIC arrived, I had to pay custom charges. Basically it was sent via EMS, and Customs sent me a custom tax and duty assessment notice, that I have to pay at the post office when collecting my item. Without paying it the post office won't release my item. So I paid that, signed in the post office book and they gave me my package. It's as simple as that. If there are no custom charges, then you just get a notice to pick up your item from the post office, you'll have to sign in for every EMS parcel, because it has tracking numbers.

That wouldn't be much different i'm afraid. to convert RHD car to LHD plus any sort of compliance and tax issues, it may cost at least US$15000 on top of the car price and all fees in Japan and shipping cost. Yes, dont be surprised... at the end of the day, a R33 GTR skyline in the USA would still be around US$40k

I think you might be out of luck. My EVC instruction clearly mentioned that both the sender and in-cabin unit must be of the same serial # to work. But that's my HKS EVC EZ-II, not sure for your EVC3 or 4 but I reckon might be the same case. You'll have to get the whole complete set to replace it. Best of luck finding one mate.

There's a company in USA called MotoRex who specalising in importing GTR. I think their website is www.motorex.net Since you are in Canada, maybe it will be easier to import a car thru these guys, or maybe just cross over the border, buy one in USA and drive it back, but I dunno how the registration system works there.

NO. Not even in stock form. 187kw/1.360tonne = 137.5kw/tonne way over the maximum limit of 123kw/tonne for P-plate in Victoria. This has been discussed many times in the forum, do a search.

Another possibility to consider: My rev hunting problem disappeared after i changed my fuel pump. Turned out my old fuel pump is dying and not supplying enough/stable fuel pressure to the engine, therefore causing it to sometimes hunting for rev or almost stalling on traffic lights or in crawling traffic jam. All happened either with AC on/off (was slightly better with AC off). With the new fuel pump all is nice now.

sydneykid, so u're saying the stock auto diff 4.3:1 is tough little 9" diff?

what u mean loose? tram lining? then it may have been alignment issue in your car. best to visit a suspension workshop, get all ur wheels balanced, and front wheels aligned. also while rims r off, check the brakes perhaps have them machined as well.

Sounds like disc warp. get it machined, I did 7 months ago and it solved my problem. It did come back again now but just a little bit, hardly noticeable. Could be wheel needs balancing again.