rs73

I seen ad for Venolia pistons in a few recent magazines.... anyone used them?

some argue that going back to stock piping needs a u-turn pipe at the fmic outlet that can reduce performance. i haven't noticed in mine as in fact i got 40kw extra, but i guess it depends on the quality of the pipework and as long as the u-turn is not too abrupt might be ok. but of course logically there'll be up to a certain point where a straight thru design will win, maybe e.g. above 400hp ?

hm.. that 9s & 8s cars don't happen to run std auto tranny, isnt it? i thought it would almost be like an aftermarket 3 speed self shifter or something...

Mine is an ARC item that returns to stock piping, size +/- 470x240x70mm only. No noticeable drop or lag. car feels more responsive actually. I even still uses stock airbox and turbo.

interesting... especially digging up those old threads... i thought most of them was gone since the last server maintenance or something... I thought by longitute/latitude nz is located closer to the south pole than tasmania? so that makes them really downunder? i'm not old skool enuf? or cos i just dun postwhore enuf in wasteland?

or could be your springs? especially if u have progressive rate as most coilovers are, the top end part where the springs are close together can rub and make all sort of noises. can be fix by putting insulation in the spring coil

i think as long as the wiper covers a certain minimum of windscreen area it would be roadworthy. cant remember what the minimum requirement is, gotta calculate it from the radius which i dont think no one would bother doing except perhaps the compliancer.

yes, they're quite good and strong auto box, ppl just underrate them as they can do more with the right upgrade. but still a bit slushy though, what i heard one of the better auto box from jpn is the one from 2.5TT soarer. they're more responsive than r33 autos, however dun think they will bolt on to RB without some serious hacking, swearing and hair pulling.

hm.. hard to tell. cutting boost wire may not bring u anywhere as the ecu will need afm input, otherwise it'll go to limp-home mode and stutters at 2000rpm (found out abt this when my one of my afm wire was accidentally snagged). i think could be something else causing it to miss. hopefully not a serious issue. can be quite a bitch to track down. i had similar issue in my car for over a year when it turned out to be fuel pump dying. had it replaced and all is sweet. oh i just remember, what boost controller u use to run 10psi? dun trust any simple cheap bleed valve, it may spike, especially on higher gear. ask ur tuner to check it on dyno. best boost controller are always the electronic ones.

i thnk the idea of single wiper is not merely weight saving. c'mon what's a couple kg gonna do to a 300-400hp car? perhaps the idea is from the jgtc track where a single wiper reduce aerodynamic drag and this is important when you're blasting down the main straight at 300km/h

dont bag the auto yet... yes you can launch hard. just stall it, step on the brake and rev it up while in D. takes practice to find the right rev, and you'll take off like a jet. with tranny cooler and uprated torque converter, it can easily smoke any manual r33. most perf workshop shy away from auto as the performance market still leans towards the manual box, plus most aftermarket ecu works only with manual. but its not limiting to auto potential, as if you do the right mod, it'll be a very fast car. stock auto trans ecu logic can sometimes feel a bit slow in downshift or shifting up before you really want it, but with a little bit of electrical tweak or maybe aftermarket auto trans controller, those issue can be ironed out. seen somewhere a guy use steering wheel up/down button to control auto box just like a triptronic/sequential style, now that'll feel close to an f1 style box. i myself prefer manuals cos i've been a manual driver for over 15 years, cant stand leaving my left food resting on the dead pedal all the time, it itched, it wanna play with the clutch, so i had to say bye bye auto and get the manual box ;-) sometimes i wish i do still have the auto especially in traffic. but what the heck, my left foot need practice.

when u changed ur plugs did u set a correct gap? .8mm is the general consensus here. what plug heat range did u use? also do you have aftermarket ecu? stock ecu will sense boost increase and kicks in boost cut, can be as low as 10psi especially on cold nights. pfc will definitely fix that, otherwise a cheaper safc can do the job well if tuned properly.

perhaps sell it as a whole if u really have to, preferably to someone looking for a drift car as all those things on the car seems to be drift-ready already. as drift events are picking up here with events like drift nats, u should b able to find buyers for the car. otherwise selling it in pieces if you can obtain all stock items and sell the car on its own as close to std. otherwise if too much effort and take too long for you, do the above.

Geoff, after driving my car for a while with the new fuel pump, I noticed that the clicking/rattling noise in the engine bay seem to disappear. I think since the car is no longer running lean, the new pump has cured the pinging problem and the result is a happy engine with smoother sound when revved. I finally got a chance to fang it down a private track yesterday and boy does it pull strongly in all gears.

The stock type-m sideskirts that I know is one piece, not two piece like that, but I'm not sure, nissan in jpn had so many options that i dun even know about

On the upper rh corner where details of our account and private messages are.... What is "You have 0 credits" ? How do I get more credits..? And what happens to our skylinesaustralia email?

I'll keep this in mind... however when you say FAST will a stock as a rock R33 qualify?

I guess so. I had my tail silencer on for everyday use, that's why I hear it hums loud and clear. But i'm having a bit more annoying noise from the rattling fmic pipe as it seems to be touching the body where it went thru under the airbox.

I had 975 on my R33... I can hear it humming on traffic lights.... but cant hear it when I start driving. But I just had it on tonight. So not sure over time if it will get louder or quieter.

Engine/Car: RB25DET/R33 GTS-t Type of failure: Not really a total failure but engine is clicking on cold start, sounds like initially thought to be bottom end crank bearing, but from later and further investigation founds out that noise coming from the top, most possible cause suspected was either sticky valve, broken valve helper spring, or maybe piston gudgeon pin (top of conrod). Got scared me of possible head/engine rebuild. Car won't make power any more above 155rwkw with a weird power curve dipping at 5000rpm. Engine also sounds like pinging even on std boost. A/F seems normal at 12:1 to 11.5:1. Factors influencing the failure: Was running cheap bleed valve 2 yrs ago, which spiked to 16psi without me knowing. This is believed to have caused some damage over time. Also possible bad plugs as we found car was previously fitted with heat range 4 plugs. We got these changed to NGK heat range 6 last yr. 2 weeks ago car went in for further analysis of the ongoing problem. After almost giving up, I asked the car to be tuned just as is (was thinking to just sell it), this is where my mechanic finds out how bad my fuel pressure was. Final verdict he was pretty sure it was a stuffed fuel pump, causing engine to lean out all the time and pinging. Further check shows engine not blowing smoke and no blow by. So it shouldn't have major damage since most of the time i've been running std boost. State of tune of the engine: Stock ECU. Stock Airbox with Apexi paper panel filter. SAFC+EVC. NGK plugs heat Range 6, 0.8mm gap. Suspension and tyres: Whiteline Works Kit (Koni struts, King springs, Whiteline swaybars & bushes). Simex 225/50R16 on stock 16x6.5" rims. Oil used and service interval: IXL Brand (generic?) fully synthetic 10/50W oil, every 5000km (missed once oil change interval - changed at 7000km - but don't think the extra 2000km did any of the issues above) General comments: Fitting Bosch975 in tank fixes the leaning problem. car made 192rwkw @ 10psi in shootout mode (possibly 170-180rwkw in normal mode) which is what it's suppose to be with stock ECU. A/F stable around 12:1. No other changes - stock fuel pres regulator. Car may still knock on cold as fuel pump doesnt solve this problem, but just preventing further pinging. Just gotta take it easy when its cold, and trying not to keep bouncing the engine off the rev limiter too often. This way it may last me for ages - finger cross. PS: I'm now keeping the car.

Bosch975 mounted in tank. SAFC should fix any A/F issues... I thought it should have a stable pressure regardless what pump as it's regulated by the fuel pressure regulator? i only have stock fuel reg. stock ecu. stock turbo. stock airbox. 192rwkw in shootout does sound inflated isnt it? stock ECU. how much diffrence usually between dyno shootout & normal mode? 15kw less? 20kw less?

hang on a sec... you said fully sealed & NO breather hose... so this IS a dry cell battery, right?

Update: I guess it is dying pump after all.... after replacing the fuel pump the engine regains extra 40kw at the tyres with a/f approximately 12:1

True... but just be careful not to land yourself in trouble....

I think I wont make it for tonight as I had no transport whatsoever. My car's not ready yet, hopefully it'll be ready by tomorrow.... catch up next month guys...