rs73

There's a few issues you'll need to address: 1. RB26DETT needs an RB26 ECU, and won't run properly with RB25 ECU, may even not run at all. 2. RB26 ECU are designed to be in a manual car, not auto, therefore: 3. RB25 Auto computer may not get proper signal from the RB26ECU, and 4. RB26ECU won't cut power at shift point, causing huge amount of shock that needs to be endured by the auto trans, which brings up the question 5. Is RB25 auto trans internal strong enough to handle the power and torque of a RB26DETT??

Sorry to hear it... Hope the damage isn't too serious. Some advice for the future... If sitting on traffic light and seeing a car behind you coming up... dab your brake pedal a couple times and hold it... Your brake light might bring into the other driver's attention if he/she happens to be a little bit day dreaming or thinking you're moving.

*honk*

Talk to doxximus on this forum, he's converted his.

Very nice!!! now I wanna get my car resprayed in that colour! he he

Interesting pt of view... might worth considering when it's time selling my baby I might show the car at a known mechanic place, easier also if they wanna see the underneath of the car, as I won't be selling them a dodgy one... Sorry a bit off topic... What's the S2 red colour is, it's not quite wine red isn't it? Do you remember the paintcode is? I think on S1 the wine red is coded as AN

*bump*

Hmm... you guys seems to be from NSW, not sure how severe over there but down here in VIC seems still not as bad as up there. I know since a few ppl I know here in Melbourne allows buyer to inspect their R33, even an R32 GTR at their residence, and they don't have probs and sold the car eventually. If hijacking/theft case is so bad, then perhaps should make it clear with buyer over the phone, that inspection is at seller's chosen location (a public place is safer I suppose), and if buyer agrees to purchase, address will be disclosed and transaction can be done at seller's house for peace of mind. Checking car through RTA may not be 100% accurate if the merchandise happens to be stolen while the original owner was on holiday and was not aware of it yet. Good to hear you finally sold your car, siks. That guy may know his stuffs well, and perhaps buying it more as a private collection or maybe he is a middleperson? Import market is a niche market.

As a general rule, a buyer should look at the car at the seller's residence. This is to prevent people offloading stolen cars. A thief stole a car, meet the buyer at petrol station, sell the car there and when the buyer finds out a few weeks later that its stolen, the thief (seller) has disappeared and buyer has no means to track him down (e.g. fake driver's license, etc). So your buyer is only protecting themselves against this possible scenario. With all respect I'm not saying you're a car thief, but if you are buying a car privately, you should do as what those people have done. Inspect the car at seller's residence and verify the address against seller's driver's license. I myself wouldn't buy a car unless the seller allows me to inspect the car at his/her place of residence. I sold my two previous cars privately with buyers coming to my residence.

Hmm..... I was told a stock GTR fuel pump is suppose to be quiet too if it's installed properly in the tank (not externally mounted).

No it won't..... unless your battery has been dead for an extended period of time, there is a chance that it will eventually loose its memory. And that would be a very long time I'd say....

Mark, I was commenting on Messiah's post about the stock BOV. THe choo choo comment applies to all Have a good weekend too.

Stock pump should be quiet unless it has problems. Otherwise it may be an aftermarket.

Nice feature, but I found it a little bit annoying to look at faded avatars..... It almost makes me feel I am loosing my eyesight....

I have whiteline shocks. In sports mode you'd want to use more camber so your wheel looks more like /----- than normal cars |----| (if seen from the front or rear of vehicle). Have you seen V8 supercars with their noticeable negative camber??? This is to help with hi-speed cornering as the outside tyres will be vertical and get the most contact patch. However for touring mode you don't need to run that extreme because extreme negative camber means your car will wear out it's tyre quicker. Generally -1 to -1.5 degree is enough for the street. Go the touring setting if you only go to the track occasionally. If you go to track every 2nd day or so, go the sport setting.

Try this: http://www.subservientchicken.com

I've seen ppl running over 1 Bar using stock BOV and it's fine. If yours leak, change the BOV spring so you can hold more boost. Might worth to check that your wastegate is not leaking before accusing the stock BOV as the culprit. BTW, who needs choo choo sound anyway? Leave it to locomotives....

Maybe it was an older model? On top of my head I think sometime during the 70 or 80 there are 6 round tail lights model

At all cost do not chop your springs.... Get a proper lowered springs like King Springs you won't regret it. Get a progressive rate spring, it will stiffen up under heavy load/cornering but is comfy for cruising.

Also have a single DIN pocket (under the stereo) In excellent condition, no breakage or crack. Open pocket style, no flap/lid. Genuine Nissan part, will bolt in easily. SOLD.

For Sale: R33 Gearshift Surround plastic panel. Very good condition with little scratch (minimal). See picture attached. No ashtray. No crack or breakage in the plastic. Leather in VERY GOOD condition. Very tiny tear in two spots but they are hidden from eyeview (where the crumple is). SOLD.

Mine still on 0%, untuned...... trying to book a time on dyno sometime next weekend and should have a result by then. It's a R33 GTS-t though, not R34 GT-T so I dunno how are you gonna compare it. Cost varies from place to place, but a group dyno day (run only no tuning) will cost around $50-100, and tuning maybe somewhere $100-150 onwards depends on how much needs to be done. But I don't own a workshop so ring around for prices. I could be wrong.

How much boost are you running that your rubber piping get sucked in?

You will need to tune it on a dyno and richen/lean based on your A/F ratio. You cannot just add it in with "feeling". If you get it wrong, you will definitely destroy your engine. Every car is different, exhaust, air filter, boost level, all can cause differences and therefore your setting may not be able to be used for on other cars, also you can't just plug in the numbers that your mate has on his SAFC just because the other person has an R34 GTT too. Decceleration Air is only needed if you have an atmo-venting BOV (aftermarket).

Does the ECU on XR6T playing "tricks" because the car is a triptronic? Maybe get a manual one, but motor magazine reviews mentioned that the manual box is not as easy to shift as most other japanese car. A little bit too notchy.