rs73

oh sorry I didn't see your first post. dun worry about my question.

Greg, what oil do you use? On mine idle is a little bit less than 2, and between 2-4 when cruising, and up to 4-5 when accelerating. Maybe can even reach 6 on very hard launch.

There's a clause in regards to ADR or vehicle modification guide that states exhaust gases must exit within a certain distance from the last edge of a car's floorpan. This could mean all floorpan including the edge of your boot floorpan. In your case, it may have caused the car to be non roadworthy, and when certain authorities start to realise this, there's a whole lot of new possibilities to defect cars based on this ground rule. See Vehicle Standards Information 8 Section 12 regarding Exhaust. The exhaust outlet must extend at least 40 mm beyond the furthermost outboard or rearmost joint of the floor pan which is not continuously welded or permanently sealed which could permit direct access of exhaust gases to the passenger compartment

How hard is it to get in/out of that fto? Like you could bonk your melon on those doors and get some damage to your grey matter.

Have you thought that a thinner oil may cause the oil pressure sensor to read a bit low or maybe fooled to think the pressure is lower than it is....?

Some can, some don't. So better checkout websites like www.takakaira.co.jp or www.perfectrun.com.au as their online list is pretty detailed mentioning whether a certain exhaust will fit 2D only, Manual trans only or models with A-LSD etc. etc. G'luck.

Considering stock R33 16"x6.5" rims and 200SX are the same, if those 17inch rims fit correctly on the 200SX, it should fit on R33 too, given both cars are RWD.

I agree. just put an N1 silencer on today. I can't tell of any power drop, car drives the same way but with a more EPA & "fussy neighbours" friendly sound. Didn't test the noise level with the silencer on though, would love to know someday.

I bought the Apexi N1 silencer ($106 delivered) just to quieten things up while I'm driving around town. 115mm diameter, shaped like a cylinder. Had to grind the back end a bit as my Trust tip is not straight like the N1 but a bit tapered. I need to push it in enough to give a bit clearance when drilling the exhaust tip for the bolt (can't get too close to the edge or the metal may breakoff). $20 job by a nice mechanic. Another guy walks in and said..."need to be welded by law, u know?" I said "yes I know, but it passed at 90db anyway, I just wanna quieten it a bit" "90db? With that silencer on?" "No, without silencer" "When?" "2 weeks ago" He went quiet. I haven't notice much difference in performance. Same exhaust note, deep bass sound going to raunchy roar past 2500rpm, except it's quieter. Like listening to the same song on your radio with the volume knob turned down a bit.

Yes. There's various bulbs behind the speedo face that's been positioned on "strategic" location, so that it can illuminate evenly even the needles as well. The needles are like transparent plastic that will somewhat "glow" when being backlighted. You might find yours do when you take that green 'condoms' off....

In mine it has a blue 'condoms' which makes the lights turn a bit towards white when it's on.... that's a standard one. I've seen someone fitted with a painted one. Depends what paint, sometimes it's so bad that it didn't transmit enough light. the stock rubber condoms will be transparent enough so you can see the dials properly. You can try taking them off and see if it's not too bright or too yellow for you.

ppl who has them would tend to hold on to that due to its collector value. with the new compliance scheme in effect, and gt-r 4 door sedan will have to be complied as a separate model, I was told. One compliancer told me that due to the low volume and availability, he will only do it if the customer pays for all the process to gain full compliance approval (evidence pack) on the model, which is a lot more than $4000-6000 that most people pay for a compliance on an approved model already. I doubt it will involve destroying one good gt-r sedan for side impact crash as it is a variant of the 4-door model, but don't be surprise if you have to, then you'll need to buy two gt-r sedan. One to crush test (and reexport or destroyed afterwards), and the other to get the first compliance. Cost wise? Nope. So best bet is to wait one of those believed to be 5 cars in Australia up for sale one day...

the dimmer in R33 is fitted on compliance. if you don't have one, the compliancer must be a bit dodgy. check the bulbs behind the dash (need to take it apart) could be one of those aftermarket bulbs with coloured bulbs or even coloured rubber sleeves on.

I've driven an R32 GTR with a twin or maybe triple plate clutch with no riding point. Will be great for the drags/track, but I definitely won't get one for my daily driver as it'll be frustrating, not to mention horrible thought trying to manouvre it into a tight parking spot... one clutch "jump" and you'll smash it. It's almost a miracle the owner can park his car (he sold it cause he can't stand using it in traffic for his banking job) When I drove the car, it felt heavy at start considering the AWD drivetrain, but the boost came on nicely, although I've only tried in a small residential street so can't really fully enjoy it. No time to check fuel consumption as it's only a 10min drive. But I can feel it got potential as boost building up. For performance matter, gt-r is the track car...

Reason why most aftermarket ECU has separate boost controller is the extra tunability. Even Apexi PowerFC's boost control option (extra few hundreds of $$$) is good, however still not as good as its sister product, a stand alone AVC-R. Not in terms of quality or operational but in flexibility and tunability.

All spots have been filled again... Saturday 21st February 2004 (AM), 08:30-12:30 1. Thanh Ngo (RX-7) Deposit received 2. Deric Ong (Supra) Deposit received 3. Rachel Santos (Supra) Deposit received 4. Rianto "rs73" (R33) 5. Thai Cao (AE86) Deposit received 6. Chris "Scotsman" (R33 GTR) Deposit received Saturday 21st February 2004 (PM), 1:00-5:00 1. Alan "halz" (R33) Deposit received 2. Corey "resonance" (180SX) Deposit received 3. Simon "meshmesh" (R33 GTR) Deposit received 4. Simon's bro (E55) 5. Terry "krptr" (R33) Deposit received 6. Steve "cooks44" (R33) Deposit received Sunday 22nd February 2004 (PM), 1:00-5:00 1. Nick Tan "HKSgtsT" (R33) Deposit received 2. Geoff "skylinegeoff" (R33) Deposit received 3. Denham "INASNT" (R33) Deposit received 4. Denham 2 (WRX) Deposit received 5. Kevin Wong "king_kw13" (R33) Deposit received 6. Andrew "Snowman" (R34 GTR) Deposit received

Hmm... problem is not many standalone ecu for that price incorporates everything. Not sure about Wolf but even PowerFC DOES NOT have a boost controller embedded, it is still an option add-on that you need to buy.... so as far as I know there hasn't been any so far... unless u can show us which aftermarket ECU has boost controller included for that price.

wow, Simon, you'll be driving both? I'll put you in anyawy

Funny I never seen this award ceremony on TV, must be something like Grammy awards I suppose? It better not be some of those so-that-you'll-notice-me-hey-I-win-an-award award thing! Sorry for the "sarcasm", but there are many manufacturers out there who doesn't need to win an award in order to produce great products.

Hi Kevin, What I got is the HKS EVC EZ-II, which has exactly the same control unit and valve controller as your HKS EVC V, but minus the fancy display screen. Try this, it will give you installation and tuning instruction up to the valve controller and control unit only, but no instruction on how to operate the display... http://www.racecarnewmedia.co.uk/hks/pdf/e...EZII3-20-03.pdf

I saw nismo short shifter for JPY 14784 from greenline, excluding shipping, which works out to be around $185 + shipping. That'll be less than the $300-400 ppl normally pay for C's shifter.

Hmmm.. now i'm tempted to find a good Nismo short shifter

I put C's short shift kit in my GTS-t gearbox a while ago and it made grinding noise... like the gears don't engage properly with it. Not sure what was wrong ended up taking it out and re-selling it to someone else, who seems to be happy with it as I haven't heard any problem from him. Was wondering if Nismo one will have less problem (?) as it's made by a Nissan tuning house, instead of some 3rd party garage like C's who may have "overlooked" something when designing these short shifter?

I'll take 2 as well, please.

I've had two opposing views of the 2530, 2535, & 2540 on RB25... One side definitely go for these turbos as stock injectors can still be used with this range, and it spools up faster... Although for 2540 might be on the limit of injectors and better to upgrade them. Fuel pump still needs to be upgraded. The other side is against this turbo as it's too small, keep spinning the wheels on 2nd, 3rd gears and the power curve drops off before building enough desirable power... This side recommends to go a minimum of 2835 or above like 3037. Upgraded fuel pump and injectors are a must. Which one is which now...