rs73

One person has dropped out... 11 ppl now... Apachex, you can join in sKyLyN if u & a friend wanna join in we can have 14 max (7ppl in each group)

I know there's also an old MX6, bigger than MX5, but that's a RWD too I think.... There's too many car choices these days, allow me one choice in front of each manufacturer's brochure, I'd be very confused trying to choose which brand new one to get!!!

what colour is the front bar?

ah yep you're right. I'm getting older my brain totally forgot the Integra... Type-R is also a nice fast car if someone wanna buy me one I'd sure pick that one... Dunno about Peugeot 206 GTI (but interior space a bit crammed)... but wont beat the Type-R... PS: Is Mazda MX5 RWD or FWD? Cos I have no idea... anyone?

It would be hard to convince your dad (since he's buying) to get a RWD over a FWD.... It is true that FWD will tend to understeer when pushed hard around a corner, but do you know that frontal hit is much more safer than a sideway? The whole bonet area in modern cars will act an impact absorber, so the shockwave is not as great. As the matter of fact, car manufacturers design their cars to induce initial understeer to promote hitting a "target" with the crumple zone, even in RWD cars like Skyline (unless suspension has been modified). On the other hand, RWD will tend to oversteer, which means you'll be facing either sideways or backwards towards what you're about to hit. If you spin 180 degrees and hit it backwards, it won't be too bad as the boot area also acts as a crumple zone However.... the scary stuff... If you hit whatever it is sideways.... occupants are more likely to get injured if their car is wrapped against a pole. Not all FWD 2003 models are crappy... some are quite nice indeed. Get something in the hot hatches family, Golf R32 (coming soon), Focus, Clio, Astra... I wouldn't mind to get one if someone is buying me... I've been driving on the road for 15 years, and most cars I saw in the news wrapped against a pole and badly injured (or killed) its occupants are RWD... I have no statistics to prove this but this is from my memory recollection watching TV news so far... I agree FWD is safer for city driving, and RWD is best left for sport/performance driving.

I can squeeze 7 people max in a group, but we all have to start 1 hour earlier, like 12pm to 5pm instead of 1pm to 5pm. If that is ok for everyone.... so a maximum of 2 more places available for these two groups... Otherwise, since ApacheX and skylyn (2) are interested, if you guys found another 3 people, how about make it the next weekend, or any day if you guys can get off work or holiday from uni? Or maybe even the saturday morning or sunday morning... so one of the day will be running two sessions... Can't promise you anything yet now but will try to organise so everyone is a winner...

Ni, I'll post these details to everyone listed here asap :-) Cam, if you read this, I'd suppose you and your three friends wanna stay together - in Sunday group? If that's ok let me know....

No worries inark... I think about time ppl put down either Saturday or Sunday: <>

Scott (Cam's Friend) has been added to the list. Anthony, I've put you in as well... We now have 12 people (2 groups).. keep watching this space as I will update with further info...

I know inark... I can understand how you feel. I've got a type-m frontbar & sideskirts that I wanna put on my car too, as currently my car has no optional bodykit at all. Dunno if I got the chance to put it on b4 the 15th Nov, as currently my car is being looked at for a weird misfiring problem (doesn't even reach 140rwkw now ) but the engine should b ready by Nov. Good thing is the factory bar is not that low. Depending what bar you have, you DO wanna stay away from getting too close to the edge. But don't worry, the instructor will take care of you. You won't be going too fast as well, maybe 30-40km/h in 2nd gear... Anthony, I've replied your pm....

got it from R33 manual conversion kit front cut.

inark, the instructor will sit with you in the car, if you listen to what he said you'll be fine.... the only thing that can go wrong is people try to be hero when they start to get into trouble e.g. spinning out, instead of hitting the brakes they try to save the day by trying too hard.. ending up understeering all the way to the bank

Location is not too far away, within 15-20 mins drive from Melbourne CBD, as we will normally do this on Saturday or Sunday. For public liability insurance purpose, exact location will only be disclosed to paying members as no spectators are allowed. If a bunch of ppl hanging around the place to try to see what's happening, soon or later we will be denied usage to the facility. So this is for everyone's sake. Thank you. Rianto

hi Nick, I can pop in any day Saturday or Sunday. Need 2 more people... inark, that suction cup looks interesting... but have you ever thought that you'll need a waterproof camera ? All that grease and water on the skidpan not gonna be good on your camera!

Nothing wrong with buying from eastern states. Your friend just happens to come accross a scrupulous seller... his bad luck. I've bought stuffs from WA, QLD, NSW, and so long has never been stuffed. Of course buying from the same city would help as you can inspect before you buy not just through some pictures. Check the car setting in the SAFC, if he got an R33 it should be 6 cylinder. This may help to calibrate the rpm sensing wire. My SAFC is a little bit off too, like showing 1900rpm when my speedo shows 2000rpm. I think it's normal and not such a big deal, 100rpm out should not be such a big problem. The speedo from the factory not 100% accurate anyway... try doing 100km/h according your car speedo you may only be doing 93-96km/h in the real world. That's where the discrepancy creeps in.

so they can charge you premium price for their manufacturer specific CD Changer, Subwoofer options, bla bla bla.... It's all greediness...

One of the most common ailments of SAFC is they accidentally pulled too hard on the cord when removing it. In the unit there is a plug, where it can get unplugged. Open the unit carefully and inspect if the plug inside is still there. Don't try to touch anything else. Considering the car it came from was in an accident, it may have been removed hastily (before insurance company find out or before the car is towed away to be written off), so this is very likely the cause. If all else fails, there's an official Apex distributor here in Nunawading VIC, but you gotta pay the repair cost. Get them to quote you, if its anywhere near $250-300, you'd better off buying another SAFC. Sorry to hear another deal gone bad in this forum, guys... generally I haven't had much problem as I believe most ppl here are honest and helping each other except some dodgy individuals who'll ruin the whole trading community. Rianto

bump. gearknob still for sale. $30

It would only be a matter of time before the industry finally catching up and offer a generic, faceless, audio head unit system with custom specific connection relays that will suit some of those makes and models like Accord Euro...

Hi guys, RUS (wayne) has been added to the list. 2 more spots left!!!!! Rianto

Al, My turbo squeal like a mad pig on cold.... is that normal? When warm it doesn't.... Anyway my car is now in the "hospital" now... hopefully nothing serious...

Kevin: your SAU nick fixed. lukasikrob: We normally run from 1pm to 5pm (4 hours) with 6 drivers in a group.

I got greyish smoke too A couple months ago the engine made tapping noise which sounds very very similar to my old Mitsubishi Galant with valve stem seal problem unlike my old Mitsu where noise is still there all the way, in my skyline the noise is gone when engine is warm But after detonation problem on a recent cruise, the cold start tapping noise is gone and hasn't come back since.... wtf???? Must be something else... turbo seal on its way out? is that tapping noise = turbo wheel touching its housing? that detonation (due to over boost to 15psi) could have chipped the wheel edges so it no longer touch the housing? I'm sure exhaust wheel still there, car can still make that much boost over 10psi (but I've turned it down to 8psi since)

Ah, I understand now... I think resolution quality has little to do with it. The culprit is the 2.5x digital zoom. Even on my 5MP camera, as soon as I use digital zoom, the picture all start to get pixelated. That's why I would never use it with lower resolution. I've seen results from my bro's 2MP camera, with no digital zoom the pic quality should be good enough...

that's a good idea too. cool site, hope the seller sells it easily n at the right price...