rs73

skyline clocks run faster depending how much boost you run 'cough' 'cough'

When I was still driving auto R33, was pretty bad on fuel consumption, city driving could be about 15L/100km. The best is 13L/100km. Hwy cruising is average 11L/100km. Now I drive manual R33, found fuel consumption is a tad better, with city driving around 13L/100km, but hwy cruising does not differ much from auto's 11L/100km, the manual is slightly better at 10.5L/100km...

I'd love to see how pod performs on dyno with bonnet close. Most cars when dyno-ed they have their bonnets up, I know u need to run a pressure sensor from dyno to the engine, but will tuning be more street accurate with bonnet just down? Even if the bonnet not fastened, just lying shut.

ARC made a box induction kit. Blitz also have similar one, so you'll get the quiet intake operation with higher flow airbox. Not sure if you can put the factory inlet duct over those induction box, so it's not just an open panel that sucks hot air from the engine bay...

I'm thinking to add a little bit of heat shielding on the factory air box, especially the bottom part of the airbxo where it may collect heat from the engine bay faster. Anyone recommend a good heat insulator that is easy to apply? I reckon with heat insulation and a hi flow panel filter like K&N or Blitz Sus or Apexi, the factory airbox will give excellent cold air feed to the turbine & engine!

I think you can fit the GT-R one for GTS-t, as long as your GTS0t is a 2-door coupe. Apparently 4-door GTS-t has slightly different B-Pillar

FYI Jasma is not a brand, it is a japanese company that is similar to EPA here in Australia. The Jasma plate on that 3" cat-back means they comply with Jasma (Japanese EPA) rules & regulation in regards to noise & emission.

is there a big advantage with this kind of alignment machine, compare to the other one that we need to drive ON it?

Max, I was told the GTS4 gearbox would not go into GTS-t. Unless you want to go all the way to alter the floorpan or source a floorpan from a wrecked GST4 too. Too pricey and perhaps not worth it. Plus, you need to figure out how to wire up an ATESSA computer and make it work in conjunction with all your other vehicle speed sensor/hicas/ etc... Too much hassle, I said. Better get a proper GTS4 or even better a GT-R!

try Justjap or UAS, they may have those gt badges.

Even for main stream companies, fire & theft usually only covers about $4-5k only. Other small companies may give you smaller amount, but if any of these small insurers offer you big cover for little premium, you should be very wary as it could mean they're pulling their luck covering that much risk. They could be stingy when it comes to claim, or no longer be there the next morning you wake up and you end up loosing 1 yr premium that you've paid in advance! If you want a cheaper fire & theft insurance only that covers at least 50% of your car price, I'd seriously suggest you look into buying a sub-$7000 car. Otherwise you'll have to bite the dust and get a full comprehensive insurance. If your car is bought with a proper car loan (not personal loan), ask your loan provider if they have some sort of minimum insurance in case the car got stolen. That could be your solution.

My 3" full exhaust system is pretty quiet on idle. Following the "theory of energy conservation" mentioned above, up to 2000rpm my exhaust noise increases quite a lot like a big grumbling vroooom, due to the fact that perhaps the energy has not been used to spin the exhaust turbine wheel that much. Once past 2000rpm, where the energy would have been used for turbo to spool up and boost, the noise becomes a quiet sounds more like raspy rrrrrrrraaaaahhh.... tone. Then of course 5000rpm plus it gets pretty loud he he he.... Not to mention the occasional "bang" from the overly too common exhaust pop noise... probably running too rich. On NA cars, esp Civics, Excels, Integras, if they put some aftermarket exhaust, it never sounds good. All the ones I've heard on the street so far sounds like a terrible squeezed fart. Vvvbbreeeeettttttt........

I placed order thru street weapons almost 2 weeks ago, just got shipping confirmation today!!! Hope it arrives by monday.

In my R33 dash, there seems to be no seatbelt warning light. Anyone know how much voltage running through that wire?

is this pure red or wine red (burgundy)

choochoobaa, Top Secret is the name of a tuning garage in Japan. Top Secret's cars does not mean they are "secret" and not to be shown in public, in fact they are pretty proud to show off their fastest beasts. Although they do keep secret some of the internal spec that they put into their cars, secret of the trade, to protect their business of course. Just my 2c.

And he's 18yo need to spend $7k pa to insure a R34... ? I would rather get something easier to insure, spending $2k+ pa is acceptable for imports, but not $7k a yr!! Imagine the stuffs you can get with that extra $5k difference. In one yr you can get a FMIC+Turbo, the next yr PFC and some other crazy monster mods....

Before spending out $$$ on SAFC then finding out changing the setting on SAFC doesn't do anything to improve situation, maybe you should check first whether your fuel pump is heatlhy or about to die, or your injectors are dirty and not flowing enough fuel.... If they're both healthy, go buy SAFC and tune it to richen your A/F at desired rev points.

what about platinum?

Al, why you wouldn't wanna change factory IC with FMIC, considering with afm injectors, cam, & turbo? what would be the factory IC efficiency is, don't think it will be effective for boost above 12 psi.

not sure, sounds good, although can be as dodgy as those piece of metal to create "cyclone effect" in the air inlet thing....

If u buy brand new powerFC , does it come with a base map that will prevent pinging, etc? Then you just plug it in and start from there to fine tune?

Area: Richmond Location: Victoria St past the overpass N. Richmond railway station. Danger: deep hole in the left lane. Solution: Off peak hours, drive on the tram lane. Peak hours (Clearway) with tram approaching, drive left very close to the sidewalk (don't scratch your rim) to avoid hitting it, or wait till tram pass then steal half of the tram lane and the hole will be between your wheels. Area: Fairfield Location: Station St railway crossing city bound Danger: Horrible uneven surface, some parts look like concrete slab poking out of the tarmac where it meets the rail. Solution: Drive very slowly, or very close to the left so you drive the less severe part of that protuding concrete road slab. Area: Preston Location: Northland S/C - Coles parking space Danger: Deep hole on entry to the closest parking aisle to Coles Solution: Watch carefully when you turn here to get into the aisle or just avoid it at all and park at least the second aisle away from Coles. Sometimes it is marked with a yellow circle, but don't count on it (get washed off by rain)

Looking at the torque figure, I wouldn't be surprised if a TT soarer can beat a GTS-t. That's an extra of almost almost 70Nm! Driving it, the extra torque will also make the seat in the pants feels it's faster!!!

wrxhoon, I checked NGK website, they do have R32 aust delivered RB26DETT plugs there. You think RB25DET uses the exact same plugs with RB26DETT?