rs73

Oh, urs is R32? I dunno abt auto R32, your RB20DET makes less power than RB25DET from factory. Mine was R33 auto (I have now converted to manual), and I got 138rwkw back when it was an auto. Now I got 154rwkw so with more power, I'm sure it would be faster than any Magna or Verada. Don't think it's the oil. I use 10w40 shouldn't be too much different with your 15w60. So that could be the reason why your R32 GTS-t is having a tough time to beat a Magna. Mind though that the latest VR-X series Magna & Verada engines made at least 163kw. Not sure about rwkw but I would imagine somewhere around 120rwkw depend on the condition of clutch or torque converter.... and their 3.5L engine definitely have more low down torque than lumpy low response RB engines. Our RBs only get lively above 3000rpm. Over 400m if you keep accelerating, I am sure your R32 will win by a lot, but not 0-60. Well, you need to go to the drag strip to prove 400m, not on the street!

Gee, HPI (not sure how reliable are they) figure mentioned that a 2.5 GT-T Soarer do high 5 sec for 0-100km/h and flat 14 sec for 0-400m acceleration. But the HPI's spec sheet for R33 is pretty accurate....

You don't need access to the battery in the boot to jump start a skyline. There is a fuse box in the engine bay with a positive terminal, the big plus sign in red, hook it there and it will do.

which plugs will suit an R33? I heard there are different thread reach & diametre, also heat range. Thread reach like how far the plug will screw into your engine, get the wrong thread reach (too deep), your plug tip might hit your piston?

An auto GTS-t will smoke a lighter 3.5V6 Magna, let alone the heavier Verada!!!!! My GTS-t was an auto, and my friend's Magna can't even keep up even in 0-60 acceleration only..... they don't make as much power, and all Magna/Verada range are lots heavier than skylines... talk about power to weight ratio, you know who the winner is...

I would say a close call... A GTS-T with minor mod would have around 150-160rwkw. There's still long way to go to get at least 170-180rwkw to take advantage of GTS-t lighter chassis. But i'm not sure, if you are keen, you can do a power to weight calculation and see how much rwkw is required for gts-t to equal that soarer's 200rwkw....

Even if soarers are like.... 150-200kg heavier from R33: 1. From factory, they came with +/- 20kw more power. R33=187kw vs Soarer=206kw claimed spec 2. From factory, TT came with one extra turbo. 3. Soarer's TT (as well as Supra) are known for their excellent twin turbo management, lots better than Liberty B4 4. Well managed TT equals more torque.... more acceleration. These facts would make up for the added weight required for NVH reduction, plusher and more luxurious ride for Soarer's target customers....

I think Soarer TT is a very fast car, even in auto form. A manual R33 turbo in stock form will have a hard time trying to beat this, unless you modify ur R33.... Stock factory spec, the Soarer TT will win over R33 by about 0.36 seconds over 400m (TT=14.02s vs R33=14.38s). But a manual R33 is lighter so it's easier to modify ur car to be in the mid 13s, while the heavier Soarer will need more power to match a modded GTS-t and the auto box has some limit... but HPI's Sin City Soarer project has made some respectable power there... with lots of mods too, but that's a manual version.

what heat range would be best for RB25DET? I was told heat range 6 is good, but some ppl here uses heat range 7?? At what boost level you should use 6 and 7? And someone also told me the suitable gaps is 0.8mm ?

with the new law coming in and less import can be brought in, will this actually bump up the price a little bit?

Does anyone know this company called "3rd Millennium Marketing P/L" in North Melbourne? The installation bay says: Red Back Installations. Seen they did quite a lot of audio installation, some imports car were there (but not everyday). Wondering if anyone here has gone to them and what is their experience? If there is any personal experience that can't be posted here on open forum, please pm me. Any opinion appreciated, as I want to sort out a bad audio installation on my car.

Will a converted auto gts-t to manual actually sells more than an factory auto? I think it would still worth less than a factory manual due to originality factor? Although if it retains the auto 1:4.3 diff, then the converted one could be more desirable for drag (slightly faster acceleration as opposed to manual's 1:4.1 diff)

I heard you can buy some HKS stuff that electronically controls the amount of max front torque from your cabin. Is a dial type adjustment, not the handbrake lever style, cos the lever style I think is overkill for street use and attracts too many unwanted attention.

I got mine engine tap tap tap last month when cold start, noise gone when warm. On way back from GOR cruise, my car misfiring ratatatata hard on 3rd gear acceleration. The next morning oil pressure running low, car has flat spot everywhere but that cold start tap tap tap noise totally gone....... what the????????? Car is slowly getting better and better to drive, but still a bit flat spot and won't make boost on 1st gear (gauge only goes to 0). Now boost only comes in 2nd gear or higher (gauge goes to a bit over the halfway mark between 0 & +7). On cold start, oil pressure will go past 6 mark on +/-1200rpm idle. When warm, on 700rpm idle oil pressure is a little less than 2. When driving around 2500-3000rpm oil pressure is about 4, and cruising 4th gear 60kph about 2000-2500rpm the oil pressure drops to about 3 or 3.5 mark. Strange..... very strange......

will a nissan std ECU cover fits on top of a PowerFC? if so, and anyone done that, it could be the real stealth mode for aftermarket ECU.

on which camera this is shoot on? what will the video quality looks like?

I don't mind helping out, mine is a burgundy GTS-t. But as Al said, will need time, date and place so I can check my calendar...

would getting a GT-R in the first place and work it up to 500HP be cheaper than working out GTS-T to the same power rating?

some jealous neighbours or d1ckhe4ds can give EPA a call and said to them: "Oh I know this car with loud exhaust plate no...." or "I saw this car blowing smoke out of the exhaust" (although it's a freezin cold morning and your exhaust smoke is white which is water condensation which should go away after your car warmed up - they dont understand this coz they're such a moron) Any of these jerks call the EPA, then you'll get a notice, any scum these days can do that one phone call just to annoy you.

I wouldn't mind if it;s like $100 a year for membership...

is that $150 the m-spec or just the standard ones?

GOR = Great Ocean Road

where you got them for $150? I only managed to find original type-m front bar + side skirts at $650, very expensive. bought it already so can't whinge anymore, and if no unexpected circumstances happens, I will get it mounted & painted end of this month!

3km/h over and you're booked! I SAW THAT CAR!!! It was a Magna I think, with a camera box in front of the bumper, people from other direction been flashing on us, and I stomp on the brake, hopefully when I pass that car my speed didn't creep over 63km/h... very tricky.... finger cross...

is there a way to get to 9s without stripping ur interior (for daily street driving consideration)