rs73

$800 plus postage.

only if the dealer didn't know. if they found out, you're forked.

are you advertising yours on ebay too? so $100 is your min reserve price?

Even $180 was considered cheap, I had been quoted like $300 from a wrecker before... But they're company who's after profit, so understandable. Most of the guys here are just trying to offload some spare parts at reasonable price, so anything between $150-200 is reasonable I guess.

hey guys, my stock ECU does not have that Mines sticker, but there was a sign that there used to be there once and was peeled off. Then at the bottom I have the same blue Nissan sticker which says that my ECU is a "Genuine Nissan Remanufactured ECU". Is that mean mine is possibly chipped as well? Can someone check their stock ECU and see what the stickers says down there, do yours say "Remanufactured ECU" or just "Nissan Genuine ECU"?

I feel that S1 velvety seat material is nicer than S2 cloth like material finish. However S2 steering wheel looks a bit nicer with airbag, but you can't change it as it will be illegal to remove airbag if you have one. Front end wise, I agree the curvier S1 boot line looks better than the square-ish type of S2, plus most S2 rear wing also have that square style, rather than just sweeping low curve in S1. But with S2 you get 2 airbags, and only late S1 you get driver's airbag. Plus many S2 comes with ABS (still a factory option) and only a few of S1 comes with ABS (although mine has ABS ) And if you love sunroof, you have a better chance finding an R33 with sunroof in S1 shape rather than S2. I dunno why but this was the case when I browse through dealers ads or jap auction data. Maybe cause Nissan didn't produce S2 as many as S1, therefore finding anything is a bit difficult due to limited qty.

Sticky - I think a 2530 will set you back starting from around $2000 to about $2700 for a 2540. 2nd hand prices could be lower. Not sure abt GTR turbo. YBLO4 - more info on ATP?

I think HKS GT 2530, 2535 or 2540 all bolt in straight. Or their similar Garret/Trust equivalent.

what about power window assembly, can they become loose and make horrible noises as you wind the windows up/down? I think mine made that noise like it's almost breaking.

Cornering fast on bumpy road could be dangerous on stiff suspension with not enough rebound. Your car bounce over bump, fly in the air, and depending which direction you turn, either you landed in the other lane in front of oncoming cars or over the edge of a cliff. Don't laugh, i've seen myself a car bounced mid corner and landed on the wrong lane. Stiff race suspension are designed for track use where surface is smooth, not for bumpy road.

... and only cheap wines come in five litres Source: Speed Magazine #008 :headbang:

Is Daalder Exhaust actually in preston or box hill?

SAFC 1 dun have fuel cut defender. Not sure about SAFC 2. However either someone said or wrote in some article somewhere that there was no fuel cut for over boost in R33, so buying a fuel cut defender for hi boost application for your R33 is a waste of money? Maybe the ECU just retard the timing when it senses higher boost to a point that it almost felt like a fuel cut?

are you goin to GOR cruise, if so is the rims gonna b on your car? if so, i'd like to see it, been lookin around for rims for quite some time now

You can get away with auto ECU but ignition needs to be re-wire to bypass auto gearbox's neutral safety switch. In R32 the gearshift indicators seems to be on the dash not on the speedo cluster so you can keep your speedo, just cover the gear indicators with a plastic piece . Changing to manual ECU would be better cause fuel map could be different, who knows. Dunno about gearbox but should fit, if GTS4 were available in both auto & manual.

Is this PowerFC for a S1 or S2 R33? Greenline sells them A$1015.00 incl EMS delivery, brand new without hand controller. If your asking price is right, I'll be interested.

might sounds ok on a honda integra, but on a skyline? but that's me, dunno about you, if you like it then go ahead

Ahmed, Lately on ebay all hpi dvd are sold at a price slightly lower to RRP. However if you read the fine prints (as most smart people will do), the price does not include GST and Shipping. After you add it all up, it's still more than what the www.magstore.com.au would charge you incl gst & shipping, so I said stuff it, I'm ordering one HPI V6 from magstore. Sometimes it'll be months before any 2nd hand HPI DVD is up on sale/auction on ebay. I used to have V1&2 + V3+4 but I sold them on ebay long time ago... Rianto

ApacheX, ur 95 R33 has a S1 front isn't it? I don't think you can get a S2 front (unless is a copy). Reason is S1 & S2 headlights are different, so putting on a S2 bumper may cause your headlight to stick out. But it could probably be modified or hacked, I dunno...

What is the exact offset in mm, can please you tell us? Looks good on a black car, it may also look good on a bright red car but dunno if it will look as good on a burgundy R33 ?

I had two Char-Gs, 1 is the GT-R set and the other is Supra. Both have 1.0 motor, same colour code. However if you run them, one of the motor is a lot slower than the other one. Swapping the motor to the other car does not help. This means it's not the rechargable battery in the car nor having to do with the operating frequency. Very likely the slower motor is stuffed...? Both car have same gear ratio, the only difference is different frequency, but I think frequency only for the remote control reception, nothing to do with how fast the motor will spin...

I got a 3" Trust MX Front Pipe + 3" Catco Cat + 3" Trust MX Cat-Back. But I'm still using standard dump pipe which connects the std turbo to the MX front pipe. My idle is stable now at 750rpm, not jumping up and down, so your problem may not be because of the ECU. But try disconnect your battery, pump the brake pedal a few times to discharge any electrical residue to reset your ECU and see how you go.

According to ESB Unit Conversion that I obtained from the internet, 1 Bar = 14.5PSI, now is that 14.7 or 14.5? You can download their software at http://www.esbconsult.com/esbcalc

Lookin @ rear view mirrors is ok, providing u got enuf time within seconds to look, find an escape route, made decision to take it or stay in ur lane. I always check my mirrors from time-to-time, pretty often, even when driving straight with less traffic on freeway. that way in case shit happens, if i just had a look at the mirrors 1 or 2 seconds ago, I had an "image" in my mind where to run to or if I have to stay in my lane. Learned that from advance driving course. But then, if you really don't have an escape route, then all you can do is brake and pray that it all ends with a happy ending. what else can you do?

How much does it approx'ly cost to get modifications engineered with proper paper works? I'm wondering as I did a manual conversion on my GTS-t, will I need to get it engineered so I won't get any insurance/legal hassles in case something happens on the road? *touch wood* As the conversion parts I used are all from the same car (R33), so should it be ok without engineer's report? And will it cost more to engineer 1 mod and 10 mods if you do it all at one time with the same engineer?