rs73

Oh, c'mon, just go to your local K'mart auto or Repco and get the wiper blade refill, 60cm will do, just measure your old one, cut the new one to correct length, and put it in yourself. Very easy to do. You've got heaps of choices, twin blades, silicon blades, triple blades, red, green, whatever available.

what would be the major difference between an auto triptronic box and a real sequential box like the BMW's SMG??? is it with the SMG it does have a manual clutch kit, with master/slave cylinder, and not just a torque converter like in other auto?

Get the exhaust valve controller here: http://www.takakaira.com/performance/apex/...p?index=exhaust

It's a clip on, so if I get done I can easily take it off with two fingers... As I said I have driven a car with bare metal accelerator pedal, so I'm very sure bare metal is fine with accelerator. I think it was my first car here a 93 CE Lancer which I took it for RWC myself and the bare accelerator pedal pass inspection. Only clutch and brake pedal need the rubber replaced.

Hi Denham, I kinda like ur wheels, but I got insurance to pay this month and just paid rego last month, so my pocket a bit hurt and light.... If you still have them in the next 2 months, maybe I'll give you a decent offer.

The answer is no. Even in stock form it already exceed power to weight ratio set by Vicroads. cops may not be aware of it, but if you ever got into an accident on your P's, and someone finds out about it, you may not be covered by any insurers and you'll be on under the knife from police and vicroads. Only R33 GTS (non-turbo) are eligible for P platers. However you can have a GTS-t registered under your name, but you're just not allowed to drive it. Strange rule, I know, but I'm not the one who write the law.

Is this the square style one?

Well, I finally decided to go japan instead of italian... got enuf italian on the knob & steering wheel ;-) I'm sure the clutch & brakes are ok as they got big chunks of rubber so they won't slip. Not sure about the accelerator as its bare metal.. I remember I've driven a car with metal accelerator, so I guess it's fine? In my opinion accelerator does not have to be non-slip, as the crucial part are brakes (your foot slip and you wont stop in time and hit something) and clutch (your foot slip while you're in gear then car jumps forward and hit something).... but if your foot slips the accelerator, you slow down.

I went to Murcott Driver's Training Lvl 2 last Monday. Put 38psi on my tyre all around (they recommend min 36psi on the day). One of the instructor, Pete, told me during Lvl 1 course in January that there's nothing wrong putting 40psi all around, he always had that pressure on his car. Manufacturers recommend lower tyre pressure like 32 or 34 is for comfort level, so they don't have to spend millions on designing limo smooth shocks on mass production cars, and easier to sell their cars coz when ppl test drive they feel the comfort ride, not a bone-jarring ride. If you went any track day course, they would recommend min 40psi (cold tyre pressure) for performance and safety. I think 40 psi is not too high, you'll get better fuel economy, longer tyre life, and don't believe if someone told you about the crowning effect, that only start to happens if you put too much pressure like 50 or 60psi and your tyre is extremely bad quality ones. The reason why I don't put 40psi is because I have to drive over tram tracks everyday, and with min 36-38 psi all around, the comfort level is acceptable. I know lots of guys here are into drags, and some will think that anything above 30psi is already on the wrong side of the pressure scale. For drags you want lower tyre pressure to get that sidewall flex for better grip under extreme hard acceleration, but that will wear out your tyre quickly on everyday's use. So unless you own a tyre shop or a best friend of them, pump up those tyres... I hardly noticed any difference in ride when I used to have 32psi and now 38psi.

at least according to the latest HPI #31, the R34's triptronic is much better responsive compared to Commodore's V6 auto. :-)

how good is that butterfly exhaust valve ? anyone ever use it ? Apexi made one I suppose. dunno if it really disrupts the flow a lot

Is anyone interested in selling R33 factory manual gearknob in good condition? Not very urgent for me to buy, just a thought of having a spare in case I decided to sell my aftermarket knob. Offers thru pm please.

Maybe we should all start mass buying auto GTS-T and convert them to manual.... Advantage: - Majority of auto are less likely to have been trashed in Japan compared to manual ones. - Buying auto are now cheaper than manual due to low demand, high overstock - Buying bulk auto are much cheaper as we can all work out a deal, say let's do a 150 cars purchase at once.... at each car prices up to $8000 less than manual? - Buying bulk for manual box, parts & clutches also could be cheaper, so around $2500 each for 150 sets all inclusive? - Labour can be cheaper, worst case scenario no friend involved, so around $800 a car.... (normally could be about $1k mark) - Just a bit hassle and waiting time around 2 weeks for each car. But sourcing parts for 150 cars can be difficult tho... hehehe... But if all went smooth, in the end we have -$8000+2500+800 = -$4300 (around $4k less a car than buying outright factory manual) Not sure if my calculation is correct but would be very intriguing idea if it is.

Well, in my gearknob it has a few rubber inserts that I can choose to fit on the gearstick, then push in the knob and uses three allen screws to hold it into position. I ended up drilling a bit into the gearstick shaft when tightening the sharp ended nuts, but good thing is they stop the gearknob from moving up/down or twisting. My bro screw it onto the rubber, which does not do any damage to the stick, but now after a few months his gearknob is a little bit loose again.

There's also another company called CarGear which provides warranty for imports.. dunno how good they are, but Geoff from PMS recommends them on his website/mailing list. What I've got is from Integrity Warranty. The dealer gave that one to me, so can't choose when I bought the car.

Spend around $30-40 a week for me. 10.6L/100km on highways and up to 15-16L/100km on heavy urban traffic mixed with some "spirited" driving around town... But again, my average travelling distance is around 25-30km a day.

Jon, it may have passed compliance under the old SEVS law, but may not be the same case under the new one. It's far more strict than the old one and harder for backyard compliancer to do something a bit dodgy.

My insurance renewal from JustCar was just quoted a bit over $2200 (rating 3, VIC northern suburb, car R33 GTS-t).

Ok then, fair enuf. Gee, you americans are funny... :-) Maybe that explains why honda civics and camrys are very popular there with flashy body kits and different tail lights, head lights and everything....

I think I'll stick with what I've got... in my personal taste, mine doesnt look too bad actually...

I would personally dump the price even further down if you have GTS-t fronts from on your 240s... that's a tell tale sign that your car may have been trashed or accident damaged in the past and you ended up have to use fronts from other cars cause you can't find the genuine replacement... If you want to increase the sales value, stick with a genuine 240s front, with hi quality repairs, you can cover any signs of car was trashed or in the accident.

Have you considered a supra as the shape itself is very sexy.... get the aero model, they're non turbo, has aero roof so got that extra pulling look being half a convertible... the engine also has good bottom end grunt that can easily kick non turbo skylines, and I believe they're lots faster n sexier than FTO... Also most aero I think comes in auto, dunno if you prefer manual or auto? Supra would also respond better to mods than an FTO. I heard the FTO's management was already good from the factory that it's very hard to gain more power by using aftermarket stuffs. There's more room for mods in non turbo Supra. If I had to choose a non turbo sexy wheels, I'd go for the supra. But they cost heap$ more than FTOs and Skylines. That can be a deterring factor.

Does this means you don't have to strip the base paint before applying the new coat? Just put the pearl coat on top? My bonnet has a few fades already as well as a deep scratch on the boot n few other blemishes... trying to justify a full respray of pearly wine red... I guess not even the best french wine could beat that luscious colour

suggestion: you should take another pic from the front if you're selling a front bar. can't even see it properly from the side.

thx for the support. remember even if I sell and got another S1 manual for $18-19K, still need to pay about 1000 for importer/broker fee, lucky if it includes GST. Then on road cost which is another stamp duty + rego which is not in that purchase price. Then you need to do full service for peace of mind depending how many kms on the odo, say another $1000k to get it done like my service. I replace my timing belt at 46,000km just to be 100% safe. it doesn't come cheap either. stamp duty, gst... they both hurts pocket a lot. then I need to find another alarm then window tint reinstall my audio system which is a pain...