rs73

Rear strut brace is now SOLD...

The car is already complied last year, registered since last year. this thing start not working 3 months ago. I guess would be RWC issue if I ever sell the car. Yes, of course there is a difference between manual & auto cluster. Auto cluster has gearshift indicator in the middle between tacho and speedo: P R N D 2 1 A manual cluster don't have that. The diameter of the tacho and speedo are also a bit smaller in the auto because it needs the space to fit that gear indicator in between them. Or maybe they were just a bit further apart from each other, dunno.

If a GTS-t has rev limiter of 7000rpm and Gt-R at 8000rpm, then why does GTS-t tacho still have 9000rpm or 11,000rpm in GT-R if you can't rev that hard anyway...? If it's just to make it look good, then why don't they made all our speedo have markings to 240 or even 300 although factory limiter is 180kph? There's a discrimination between speed and rpm from Nissan here....

91 suzuki katana (think of a 1000cc sh1tty 2WD in a tincan jimny body) - a wannabe "compact 4WD" with only rear wheel drives that doesn't even go. Body rattled like hell too. Your nana on a bike would overtake this. 95 toyota kijang (my country's favourite 1300cc people mover) - doesn't go either and rattly. 93 Lancer CE Coupe bought accident damage from a friend leaving the country. Got dents & bents in every single panel no kidding. 86 Cressida with a dying starter motor, transition car b4 finding the next Galant. 94 Galant SE Hatch, not bad, much better performer than Lancer but still not fast enough. Engine sh1ts itself after only 100,000km Which seems to me I now realise never moved up from the cars made in 91-94 era... my current R33 is a 93 model....

since conversion and replaced my auto dash cluster with a manual one, that dimmer light doesn't work anymore... will this be a problem?

sell it? why? The car has been converted now so it's manual. Too late to sell now and would be foolish to sell it now. it's running very fine now and has got some extra mods on it since converted. And no it's not $6K. The reason why it goes to $5K is because I did not do the conversion alone, but also do lots of other MAJOR service in one go. I think conversion parts & labour alone is around $3.5K which is about average for R33. The rest $1000 is for new timing belt, new suspension bushes, full engine oil change, manual speedo (some ppl still use auto speedo in conversion which is a dead giveaway), get my front disc brake machined & pad replaced, and finally the last $500 is for our PM John Howard. That's why it's so expensive coz the 10% GST.

hey, you warm up the thread again.... I have done my conversion.... it worked out this way: Conversion: $5K incl full service, front caster rods & timing belt. Result: I kept my sunroof, abs, my fav colour, and this car with the engine that I know I can trust. Selling: The best "stupid" offer was $14K, so it means I loss $9K if I sell... that hurst. The decent S2 are around $22K cause if I sell than buy again, no point getting the same S1, need to go at least S2... so with $14K optimistic on hand, need to come up with another $8K, and those may not come with abs, sunroof, and prob not my colour too. Believe me most replacement R33 that I found has no abs, no sunroof. Plus a few months without car until the car arrive... hopefully before the new law. So the answer is: Conversion... which I did and I did not regret it. I keep my auto diff with 4.3 ratio and not changing it, save me the $$$. The theory is the bigger the ratio the shorter the gearing for better accel, but higher fuel consumption and lower top speed (unless the engine management's rev limit is raised). The smaller the ratio, the less it rev and less using fuel, but it feels making a bit less power but car can achieve higher top speed at the same rev. It makes sense if auto R33 was given bigger ratio to give the feel of power, as the 1st gear ratio in the auto box is a bit lower than its manual siblings. So the bigger diff is to offset the lower 1st gear ratio in the auto - helps car accelerate from standing still. The benefits since the gearing is a bit shorter, theoretically it helps in acceleration. But since my tyres & rims r still stock, they don't grip too well even in the dry, so until I get a wider rim and grippier tyres then I'll be able to accelerate much quicker than most other manual R33. Good for drag races I suppose? A grippy Daiken Exedy clutch also makes it very easy to spin my rear tyres. The disadvantage is that compared to other manuals with 4.1 ratio, my car would run a higher rpm at the same cruise speed -> slightly increase fuel consumption and may have slightly less top speed, so may not be ideal for long straight track use... But Trust made 4.3 diff, so I suppose many dedicated tuners in Japan change the 4.1 diff to 4.3 too, and get better acceleration. The slight difference also very small, so it may be hard to notice or affect the car in anyway..... maybe just a couple tenths of a second difference only on the drags. It worked out that 4.3-4.1 = 0.2 --> 0.2/4.1 * 100% = 0.49% increase... so if a genuine manual cars rev 2500rpm @ 100km/h cruise, mine will be revving @ 2623rpm => 123rpm more.... Top speed on the track: if other cars made say around 195km/h @ 5000rpm in 5th, then at the same rev I would only get abt 185km/h, so I need to rev it to +/-5250rpm just to keep up with others... Hope I'm right... Rianto

It's MotoRex, not Motox ! www.motorex.net They are the official importer for Skyline in the USA, mostly GT-R, even smaller volume compared to our import industry, so u can forgive americans ignorance if they dunno nothing about skylines...

what gps system you are using and how do you set your speedo to the gps, do you have to wire them or something?

at your speed of said 190.... do you remember what's the engine rpm at 4th gear and 5th gear?????

there's so many benz out there that looks super sleeper but will kick our ass as they can do 0-100 in 4.5 or 5.0secs....

Taka sells them for US$82 (Pivot), and we all know Apexi also has RSM-GP for US$192 + US$46 for the optional G-Sensor, which makes the whole thing cost around $400... and they both have speed limiter remover function too... How much better is the RSM-GP compared to Pivot, in terms of accuracy of accelleration measures, etc. I suppose RSM-GP will be more accurate if equipped with the G-Sensor?

well someone offerred me $250, which a bit over priced, is it?

reckon that grill with red "S" badge will look good on a winered gts-t, or just get a hollow grill (without the "S" badge)

What about early S1 R33 (1993-1994) and late S1 R33 (1995 update w/ driver's airbag), they should all fit as they're all S1?

Does anyone knows what this front grille style is? Is it from series I update 95 GTS-t or a factory option? Where can you get an exact one like this? Another pic in silver colour is attached.

I agree they ARE mean cars.... but when they're shrunk like these Char-Gs, aren't they cute??? "Honey.... I shrunk the GT-Rs......"

I was a bit impatient when painting the GT-R, but if I manage to get the Tamiya GTS-t, I will paint it wine red just like my real car.

My R34 GT-R by Biante/AutoArt Excellent detailed 1:18 die cast model. My R33 GT-R plastic kit by Fujimi (??? I think ???) A bit rough in paint and hardly any engine details at all, I plan to get another one from Tamiya, hopefully it's better, we'll see how.

DA_MAN, please give more details... Are you bidding at $200, if so pm/email me with your details. Rianto [email protected]

Thx for the offers.... At this moment still not in a hurry to sell it.... Price lowered... will take $200 or nearest offer... Anyone else?

bump

looks good, what scale is it? is it Tomica die cast?

so did I... ebay...

yep, they're pretty cute little things.... good for stress busting.....