rs73

PowerFC replaces your standard ECU and plugs into your standard factory loom. There's no way one can tell your car got PowerFC or not unless they opened up the ECU cover panel and have a look at the computer itself. Legality I'm not sure, perhaps not unless you get it checked & certified by an approved engineer (check on emission, etc). But if you keep your own factory ECU, in case anything wrong happens, just a matter of unplug and swap to get you off the hook. Also it's a good idea to let your insurance company know as well, otherwise you may not be covered in an event.

Actually it COULD be true! Depends on what clutch you have, the condition, etc, there's an average of 30-40kw loss in the drivetrain (a standard manual GTS-t with 187kw @ engine will produce abt 150rwkw) more loss in automatic (about 50kw). So if a powerchip-ed car made 170odd rwkw, add a 40kw drivetrain loss than you're looking at around 210kw at the engine, which is close to what they advertised. PS: I am in no affiliation with power chip, and I seriously thinking of getting a 2nd hand PowerFC for $1200-1500 over a Powerchip.

why dun u give 'em a call, or get a fortune teller with psychic ability to predict the future...

As you're only 17, I think it's fair that I assume this is the 1st year you insure your car... means you're at rating 6 atm. If you want rating 1, there is no way you can do abt it but to keep insuring your car for the next 6 years with 0 claims (perfect record), then you'll be on rating 1. If you have claims at your fault, your rating may go down the following year (eg from rating 5 to 6 or stays at 6 if you're already at rating 6), depends on the severity of the incident. If you are rating 6 and made claim but not your fault (the other driver's fault), then generally your rating stays at 6 on the following year (when you renew your insurance) before it goes up to 5 the next following year. So generally, at fault claims can cost you 3 years to get to the next bonus rating claim, and non-fault claims cost you 2 years to advance the rating. It may differ from company to company, but that's how I understand it from RACV. I'm with Just Cars too, 29yo male rating 4, only got 2 more months to go before I'm on my rating 3. I do have perfect driving record, only bcoz I started to insure my car on rating 6 when I came into australia 3 yrs ago, I can only be on rating 4 now where most other 30 yo who had insurance since they're 18 will be on rating 1 by now. Unfortunately I dun have any insurance records back home in Indonesia, so it's a long way to rating 1 for me too. Back home insurance is not necessary (>90% drivers are uninsured) as any panel beating and spray painting shops will generally cost cheaper than insurance excess. Along with average 35-40km/h max speed in nationwide traffic jams, ppl don't get that much damage in any accident. Yeah, it's a hard way to go, but that's the way life is, so live with it. Drive safe and careful so you don't need to make any claims.

Seems all those A-pillar gauge pod problem happens in NSW... what abt in Victoria, anyone got defected, and who's gonna inspect it? Our Vicroads?

I have Momo Race.... very very nice n I like it very much :-) It even sits quite low in my opinion, so no need to cut the shifter or anything. Perfect height.

How did I miss this thread? Nick: rs73 Name: Rianto Age: 30 (soon!) Location: Fairfield/Thornbury Car: R33 GTS-t email: [email protected] MSN: as above ICQ: 873042 Pic: Chopped off group pic taken @ my office...

Those were good hehe... However, I don't understand this one: That was an unauthorized execution.- Lin Ching ???

I got a Momo Race. Nice look but haven't put in the car yet, waiting to put in the C's short shifter first. In the meantime, believe it or not, I use my bro's factory Honda Civic gearknob. It screws in perfectly into Nissan's gearshift stick!

ABS doesn't mean you can just slam your brake and try to kill it. I tried in mine, doing 65km/h and trying to stop within 20 metres. Slamming it can make me stop in 18 metres or so. Pressing it firmly and stop at the point where I start to hear my tyres locked up and ABS is working, produces even better result. I can stop in within 15 metres, maybe even less. ABS uses computer to compensate if the pressure is too hard (locking the tyres). However if you slam the brakes, the initial pressure which locks up the tyre is too great, and computer needs to make BIG compensations of loosening up, then tightening it up again. By using the 2nd method above, the computer only needs to make minor compensation to reach optimum brake pressure, and believe me, it is easier and quicker for the computer to make minor adjustments rather than big ones...

Pumping your brake pedal in a car with ABS??? That's a BIG no no... Unless your feet can pump faster than 80 cycles per second, DO NOT ever pump the brake on ABS cars. ABS car: press brake firmly, as soon as you hear your tyres start to lock up and feel the ABS working (pulsating sensation under your feet), keep the pressure on, do not add, do not lift off. The computer will calculate the optimum amount of power for shortest stopping distance. Non ABS car: press brake firmly, as soon as you hear your tyres start locking up, reduce feet pressure about 5 or 6mm, and hold. Pressing up more will only lock up ur tyres and slide your car further. Lifting up too much will make you loose brake pressure and not stopping as quick. From what I learned, you don't need to pump the brakes, just lift off a tad, but still you need practice to know where's your brake sweet spot is (the moment it's gonna lock up your wheel) You're welcome to argue and deny those methods above, but it's been taught in Advance Driving Courses and I have proven it myself. In my car (with ABS), using ABS method above is better than slamming the brake pedal dead, and lifting off or pumping is a very bad braking method (unless your brain is made of Pentium 4 microchip).

I think I might have to cancel coz my friend said dun hav enough money to travel

The seller said the "lock jiggler" equipment will open japanese cars like Nissan & Toyota INCLUDING Skylines, 180SX, Supra, MR2.... You name it, any performance imports was listed... I hope it never falls into the wrong hand, especially after a few ram raids in NSW and other states involving stolen cars..... Wouldn't that kind of auction encourage would-be-car-thieves to buy it and try out their skills??? Since if anyone buys anything on eBay, there's no way to track it or to be sure what the buyer's purpose or motives are.

I had Trust MX on my car, and it's quite loud compared to standard exhaust, but I like it after a while. It's pretty quiet when you cruise. The deep bass roar is when you accelerate around 2000rpm, by 2500rpm+ it's quiet again. Nice.

I checked the eBay again, and the item is no longer there... maybe cancelled by eBay?? Anyhow, I think selling lock picking equipment (particularly for hi-po cars) to general public are a bit dodgy.

With the recent stolen cars around, esp Skylines, and other hi-po cars used in ram raids crimes, is this a bit of a worry? http://cgi.ebay.com.au/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?Vi...item=2401200685 I know maybe the buyer could be a legitimate locksmith, but what if someone who plans to organise a large car pinching operation? Just a thought...

Hey Tim, what abt the arve river rd (I think that's the road name) going from Geeveston to the Tahune Forest Reserve Airwalk... I read from books it's unsealed road... will it be ok for a RWD coupe to pass thru? Hope 4WD not mandatory. thx Rianto

I also need the following travelling times (just estimate): 1. Devonport - Deloraine 2. Deloraine - Launceston 3. Launceston - Hobart 4. Hobart - Geeveston 5. Hobart - Port Arthur Any help will be appreciated...

then what happen to u all skyline owners down there? keep adding octane boosters every fill of tank?

What abt fuel, is 98 octane fuel easy to get? I was thinking to bring some Octane booster from here, but seeing the tight security measures b4 boarding the ship might cause a hassle if you bring some flammable material in your car... 2nd, any of you went to Tahune Forest Reserve (where the airwalk is), I read that it's unsealed road, can drive a RWD skyline there or better not and get a 4WD?

Hope you guys don't mind I warm up this thread again... I had a brand new Daiken Exidy clutch... is it normal to have that "ringing" sound (heard from outside car) and "wind whirring" like sound on the inside when I let it idle in neutral. The sound goes away when I press the clutch pedal.

I wonder, if you give the colour code AN02 to any Nissan Dealers, shouldn't they be able to get you a touch up paint? It's gonna cost dear though but at least if they have, you'll get the exact match and might well worth paying for. I bought one from Repco, from Toyota's wine red, and it didn't quite match 100%, a tad too dark.

I don't think that is a very good way thou, coz if he talks more abt ur/his car than ur driving... than he may not be putting 100% of his time to pass valuable knowledge to you. Our instructor never made any comments on any of the cars that ppl drive on that day whether that's a ford xy gtho, a gemini, skyline, 200sx or etc. He purely concentrate on how u drive, he even knows within split seconds that I steered first than braked later, when I'm suppose to do the otherwise (brake first then swerve)... and he was even standing outside the car and me passing him at 65km/h, not sitting in the car. Check if your AAMI course gave you a certificate and can be recognised by Jim Murcott course, if so, then maybe you can go straight to Level 2 or Motorsport.

Go to http://www.murcott.com.au/vic.html and check what's the next available date is. I think there's 1 tomorrow but it may be too late for you to register. Next one is Monday 2nd of Feb 2003. Remember, you MUST do the 1st basic defensive driving course before they allow you to do the 2nd level. Cost $275 for level 1 and $286 for level 2. You can go to Motorsport straight away ($330) but I prefer to do level 2 first, to gain better confidence in myself, beside I wanna know how I can cope with doing a 75-100km/h highway manouvres, wet slalom etc in level 2, before going to motorsport, which may expose me to even higher speed... Maybe I should get speed delimiter before doing motorsport course? Meanwhile I'm planning to do Level 2 at end of March. Cheers, Rianto

Akeenan, Did the course you do was held by AAMI thru Jim Murcott or just by AAMI? Sometimes it could also depend on the instructor. On the day, we got Peter Barr, who really makes a difference since he's got quite a sense of humour and it makes the whole day easier and more interesting. And yea I did heard comments like "do you believe all this craps?" from some young blokes there, but when they did their run, hit a couple of markers. If they were so good and thinked the course was a crap, why can't they control their "hot" lancers to avoid the markers properly? It wasn't that hard believe me, even a young lady in her old Gemini can beat them hehehe I admit might be boring for some as it's not as racing style as some thinks.. but for me, maybe this course could save me out of trouble, in case a wombat jump out in front of my car. This is just my opinion.