rs73

I reckon the GT will be quieter, I might go for that one on next pay.

It's hard to explain, however will try to get a photo & post it here so that you guys can see & tell what you think. That's why next I'm thinking to get exhaust, but want something that's not too loud & not attract too much attention. My work area has cops around at all time! Pod maybe not, as cop hassle with it, maybe just aftermarket panel filter once my stock air filter is too dirty & need replacement. I'm not really ambitious on chasing top end power, but want a little bit more mid-range where I drive the car most.

Will it (the dd) be loud tho? no point me getting hi flo exhaust if I keep getting fined for noise... always have cops around most time next door to where I work, they service cop cars there. Apexi also have the dual N1 muffler similar to Trust dd, but I reckon that would be very loud & will shatter windows as you pass by. Besides, dual N1 very pricey.

or... 4) Apexi GT Muffler

3) Apexi N1 muffler (note I'm not sure if the R33 model is supplied with silencer, anyone can confirm?)

2) Trust DD muffler...

Ok folks..... Which of the following design would you think (or know or heard) the quietest? 1) Trust MX muffler

Is there a place where you can engineer-tested a pod filter installation and get it papered as street legal?

Thanks Meggala, I know you'll come to the rescue so my suspicion on my standard exhaust causing this is right... I may need to invest in a higher flow exhaust and probably an electronic boost controller... In the meanwhile, I'll try drop the boost back to 9psi. Thanks. Rianto

Hey guys... I just got a boost valve installed in my R33 and put the car on dyno... 1st prob: What happenned was that even the boost was set at 10psi, the boost only stays at 8psi, then suddenly at around 5600rpm the boost frees up and jumps up to 10psi in a rush for the last 1000 rpm or so before rev limiter kicks in... Thats when the car produced about 150kw at rear wheel. (Standard exhaust, Standard turbo, standard ic, standard air filter) Was the sudden boost jump due to the fact that my standard exhaust being restrictive, or is there anything else missed? At first it was set at 11psi and power curve was all over the place, so it was lowered to 10psi, but still the same jump occured.... 2nd prob: Also when the car was tested on 1st gear (this is an automatic gearbox) a/f ratio is fine, on 2nd gear there's quite a big area of flat spot as the car running too rich there, and on 3rd gear or Drive position, it's fine again.... Is this normal for cars with auto gearbox or something else?? I have also the S-AFC installed but due to problems above no correction setting has been set on the unit. I still have to bring the car back in again on Monday and tune it again. I was thinking to try it on 9psi only, since some cars on last dyno day made it better when the boost was lowered down a bit. But meanwhile, if anyone knows/have any suggestion to possible cause/solution to those situation above....? Thanks!

As far as I know, the R33 sedan doesn't have a larger boot than its coupe sibling... there's still that space between the rear seat and boot to house the battery, hicas computer, and what else... Not very space efficient for a 4 door. But hell yes the performance will make up to lack of space if you get the turbo one...

12.8 sec.. yeah.. GT-R rules...

Anyone read the HPI lately? There's a side-by-side comparison between a 4dr R33 GTS-t and a brand spanking new Falcon XR8... (both cars have auto trans)... Skyline still wins the acceleration time thx for its 280kg lighter body. Although Ford's engine produces almost 40kw more at factory spec, on the dyno the difference is only 15kw at rear wheel... I guess a stock R33 auto gearbox would probably produce +/- 140kw at rear wheel, and at +/- 155kw for the XR8, means Ford must have loose heaps of pwr, perhaps around 65kw perished through its diff & tranny? This really shows that big power in the engine won't matter if diff & tranny are not up to it... Wished there'll be more imports-local comparison like that article...! That'll make those hoons in XR8s think twice (or make it triple/quadruple...) about challenging Skylines at traffic lights...

thx guys... I'm preety sure it's a bad contact somewhere between amp and front left speakers..... today on my way back over interstate highway, my F-L speaker went alive again... and hasn't beeen dead since... it went dead momentarily in Toorak rd over the bumpy tram track but as I arrived home, it's on again.... I've booked my audio installer to reinspect it again, they did the installation and they agree to have a look and find where the speaker contact became loose...

I dont think it have to do with gearbox... if something wrong with some sensor I think it would stuff up ur car no matter what gearbox you have.... n lucky my '93 R33 auto has been driving beautifully so far... zero mechanical problems....

Hi,,, My left front speaker has been dead and on intermitently, but most of the time went dead. I opened the door trim today and checked the cables to the speakers they all are connected well to the X-over and the bass/midrange and treble speakers (This is split 6"). Both my front speakers are powered by amplifier. I checked the amps and the output terminals are all connected, no loose cables. I set my head unit to put out sound to the left-front speaker only. - The front left speaker does not produce sound (Yes, it's dead) - If I switch the amplifier input from left to right n vice versa, the front left speaker is still dead. This means the L-R line out at the back of my head unit is connected properly, right? So based on that analysis, would that be my amp that is not working, or the problem lies on my front left speaker? I haven't tried my amp, but I was thinking to switch the output terminal from left to right n vice versa like the input and see if the problem is with the amplifier itself... Any ideas guys/gals? Thanks...

I personally wouldn't buy sthing like that....... especially those white taillights r such a turn off.... looks like someone with eye cataracts... Too ricey.... the genuine red tail lights are lots lots sexier than that....... plus the cops might pull you over each time they saw it... and how you open the boot with your key with that thing covering the boot keyhole?

thx for all the info... I'll have a closer look at the ecu connector once the weather's a bit dryer and sunnier, n when I have the time over the weekend...

ooooooohhhhhhh.........ahhhhhhhhhhh..... What a great shottttt........!!!!!!! I wish I was there......... I wish my baby is in da pic as well.... But anyway my visit to my friend's house in the countryside was well worth the trip anyway... so maybe next time I'll join you guys

How fast a factory spec R33 Skyline goes from 0-100kph? I measured mine on a quiet, back country road and it goes 7.5 seconds from standing start to 100kph... fully stock no mods, auto gearbox, no wheelspin on launch.... In Motorzone it said stock manual R33 does this in about 7.0 seconds....

thx.... however if I only running around 10psi, fuel cut shouldn't be an issue??? I'm not after very ambitious boost as my auto gearbox may not hold... unless circumstances change and I manage to convert my auto to manual....

How easy is it to hook up S-AFC by yourself....? Of course with the manual+diagram on hand... (I'll still leave the setting up process for the expert with dynos) Should I solder the splice or just squeeze those provided splice cap with a pair of tweezers... or maybe I'll just ask the workshop boyz to hook it up for me... anyone done it b4?

whew...... finally received my S-AFC and Turbosmart boost valve... at what psi level do I start to need boost cut defender?? I assume boost cut defender = fuel cut defender ? is it correct? Turbosmart made one for abt $100 for valve type and $175 for electronic one... which budget product is better value for the dosh$$$? I'm pretty tight here already, still need to save more $$$ for exhaust.

that pipe looks pretty close the ground... what's the ground clearance with that... has anyone ever hit a stone with that n stuff up their exhaust?

Has anyone compared Apexi N1 & Apexi GT mufflers...? I suppose N1 is louder and GT is more suitable for legal street application....??? GT's $300 more expensive than N1, prob coz the extra muffler added....