rs73

same tyre sizes on mine.... the japanese brochure I had mentioned the HICAS system. I would guess it is part of the whole VDC system on all V35. but it will not be triggered unless some condition is met e.g. corner speed and the steering angle, a word of warning - don't try this at home... race track/skidpan is best to test those limits....

the only thing something like that happened to me is when the road is on a slant angle like going downhill the wrong way against the turn... and probably because of my shitty Nankang NS-II... and I did boot the accelerator very hard in that corner. other than that it works beautifully, probably because my front to rear ratio are kept to the same ratio to stock sizes front to back, the VDC might work properly that way... also I found with most cars, usually VDC OFF position is not 100% OFF... it will still kicks in if it senses extreme conditions. It's like turning it off just bring the treshhold level higher or much later. The V35, like previous Skylines, does have 4 wheel steering system, which needs some getting used to... Dunno what they call them now, but it was called HICAS in R32/R33/R34. I did on a few hard cornering felt the rear was swinging weirdly but it was the HICAS keeping things together, took some time getting used to, e.g. NOT correcting the car as early, kept the steering angle a tad longer than usual with little to no correction at all, let the rear sort itself out, then before you know it the car's already out of the corner back to the straight line... On my old R33 I took it to the track with HICAS and had no issue and I was used to that weird feeling at the back. Managed to drift it ok as well on the skidpan, even with HICAS. But again I had no intention to pursue that last 0.001 second of lap times, so I couldn't be bothered to have it disabled /deleted with HICAS delete kit like other people did. Not sure if 350Z has similar HICAS thing or not...

Find the fuse to the VDC computer and pull it out. that should turn off VDC permanently ?

VDC On = turning the car into a deathtrap? I think VDC OFF is turning the car into a deathtrap... the car has enough torque to send the rear end skirming in the wet... If you press the button and you got the VDC warning on your dash , that means VDC if off, not on. When VDC is on you don't see any warning on the dash. Keep your VDC ON as it saves life... it helps your car gets 'glued' more in the wet... I wouldn't deactivate it, it's a feature of the car why you would pay to remove it? The only exception is if you are transforming your car to be a track only racing machine, you would want to disable any form of VDC or ABS, as they may kick in too early... and the purpose on the track is to shave off lap time...

yes, but the car's electronic brain is expecting that: - On a coupe: the front tyres is smaller - thus 225/45 front and 245/45 rear - On a sedan: front and rear all same sizes if the difference are too big, the electronic brain might get confused and might stuff up the vehicle dynamic stability control in the long run... too much electronic in cars these days...

Spotted blue coupe today around lunchtime parked in the middle parking bay on Franklin St... with chrome surround rims and black centres.

so that spec.dock don't spit out video?

I don't get it... what is being different with USA-Spec adapter? is it bose connectionn end, or apple in USA have different connector to Apple australia?

Spotted white coupe yesterday around 5:15 in Little Lonsdale Street in the city, plate no: XAC*** going towards Melbourne Central

yeah, that's me on way home from work... moore st, that dreaded short stretch of road that made daily commuting otherwise an enjoyable drive.

I yank it too hard from the bottom part, causing it to bend too much on the way out... once you've yanked the bottom part out, work your way up by leveraging from under the cap and slightly spread the sides out so it snap out of the clips easier, don't bend it too much outwards...

now, now, be nice, ST :-)

no dramas... all fixed now... thanks for the tip.

Finally did it, cracked them out and replaced with new parts.... Hm, driver side went ok, but I cracked my passenger side (the old one)... pics here.... So becareful anyone attempted this, they need some medium-hard yank down the bottom side with a flat head then work your way carefully to dislodge the side clips, dont force them cos obviously they're a bit fragile... Of course this is if you plan to put them back on, e.g. just for removing door trim purposes for speaker install, etc... If you plan to replace them like mine, don't worry, crack it, break it, dump it. :-) I'm also keeping the box lids where they've got the part # on in case I need to re-order new ones in case they're broken again.... Left (passenger) = 80945-AM800 Right (driver) = 80944-AM800 THESE WILL ONLY FIT V35 COUPES! (Sedan has different slant angle)

Driver Dynamics... Murcott... John Bowe... there's a few others...

not yet... time is not on my side... haven't got a chance to do it... as I prefer to do it during the day with lots of day lights but my weekends have been full or errands.

is it also "tyre" in UK?

when I did advanced driver training course they recommend setting tyre pressure around 36psi... have a play around and see which pressure you feel the best for the weight of your car and your preference on the road

ha ha, yes it's not in one big hit... it was the Nav+DTVB conversion + aust 3pt immobilser, in 1st one... then a year later I added cruise + 6cd changer in boot (changer was self-supplied) then a few months later Chris just tidied up a bit regarding the way nav works on screen + rear view camera. I can't remember the exact $$$ myself... so best to keep it as estimates that should cost you a lot less depending what you want... by the way Chris, my snow/power AT button dunwork, how do I remove the shifter cover to check if the cable's connected?

Though, keep in mind, if you change the offset than the OEM wheels, you will potentially wear out your wheel hub prematurely... The reason is due to change of weight centre that your wheel hub has to withstand with the aftermarket wheel, increasing the 'twisting' inertia each time the wheel bounces... having a cost-you-arm-and-leg-japanese-lightweight-forged-rims does help the hub and shocks not keep getting pounded by heavy unsprung weight, but not all rims out there are lightweight forged and not everyone can fork the money to buy a set...

u're right - mind block... although wider tyre and some pattern also can cause that too...

yes you did it again.... :-) put tyre 1 as 225/45/18 (your front OEM) and tyre 2 your desired aftermarket (235/35/19) compare the 2, and note the % of decrease or increase in circumference between the two. call this 'a' this is probably not on tire1010.com but it's easy: (oem circumference - new circumference) divided by oem circumference times 100% = the % you're after then re do the calc above and this time put tyre 1 as 245/45/18 (your rear OEM) and tyre 2 your desired new rear tyre (275/30/19) compare the 2, and not the % of decrease or increase that happens. call this 'b' to prevent VDC playing up or getting confused, you need to make sure 'a' & 'b' are as close as possible. the reason why you can't compare your 235/35/19 to 275/30/19 is because your OEM tyre on V35 is staggered. V35 tyres are intentionally bigger at the rear. your method above will only apply if your OEM tyre size on the V35 is not staggered (e.g. V35 sedan or AWD GTR). So you must always compare OEM front vs new front and OEM rear vs new rear, and make sure the % differences on each axle is the same... e.g. if the new front is 1% smaller than OEM front, the new rear must be 1% smaller than OEM rear.

tramlining is mostly caused by wider than std rims and tyres - causing not enough time for water to escape from underneath the tyre... if you want to eliminate tramlining alltogether, stick to factory 8" width because that's what the car is designed for. or choose a performance tyre with aggressive pattern to make sure water is expelled quick enough... at the expense of increase road noise.

he withdrew his deposit after seller hesitated to get the car inspected for 'quoted half a day to a full day' from his mechanics... no one wants to waste time to inspects car for half a day... I wouldn't waste my time as a seller sitting around at a garage for 6 hours... 1-2 hours is max I would do - that's what RACV here in VIC do as standard pre-purchase inspection with full report. I think we can close off this discussion... the seller moved on, got his car to be sold which i believe the other buyer would be very happy, and the thread starter better move on finding another car cos there's no use ranting about it now when the fish has now snap off his fishing line and swam out to the sea...

The ebay link in that thread refer to '05 update 350Z 5sp AT transmission so it probably will not work if your V35 is an 03-04 model. It will only work with V35 '05 or above