rs73

you need to get your facts straight... V35 Coupe 5sp AT Transmission = 350Z Transmission 350Z early 5sp AT transmission <> 350Z later transmission, thus same case with V35 early <> V35 later V35 Coupe 5sp AT = V35 Sedan 5sp AT V35 Coupe 5sp AT <> V35 Sedan 8sp CVT (8sp CVT only offered in 350GT-8 sedans)

it's not about the km it's more to how the car is maintained... any car you can judge by the condition whether it's done 30k or 60k or 100k... I'm used to buying used car at least 3-5 times now I know where to look... bring a friend who does if you don't know where to look. unlike some 1989 R32 GTR which are still advertised with low 30k - 60k km now that is way too hard to believe considering it's a 20 year old car, although there are still one or two examples that are really genuine... a S1 V35 coupe with 30k-60k is average, they're not too suspiciously less for its age. S2 is average around 20k-30k on the clock... a V35 sedan early 01-02 model will average close to 80-100k... although some cars can look better than the other but you could take a look at the tell-tale sign of wear in interior particularly easier to spot the creases in leather seat, rubber wear in brake pedals, scratches on doors, etc. as the interior parts are relatively still very expensive to replace due to the relatively new age of these cars, it is uneconomical to have the interiors swapped out just to gain a few hundred extra worth of market value to make the car look a lot fresher... plus you did mention you went through the service records and it is satisfactory, that should have given you a bit of reassurance as well...

I dun see any problems with seller . if i'm selling I won't let the car out of my sight with a stranger for half a day, even with a few grand deposits . full stop. the car is worth more than deposit his demand to wait there while car being inspected is reasonable , I would do so myself as a seller. not everyone here is students or part time worker, so the seller may have a busy work schedule or other work/life commitment - it's up to u as buyer and seller to negotiate suitable time for both...

not if you have "Eleanor" Mustang GT500 and the thieves are 'Nicholas Cage' except he didn't have a bro with gambling problem... it'll get loaded straight and sent off overseas

I checked with the seller - if the GPS signal is not available the unit will send its last position prior to loosing signal. That would work to some extent... unless of course the car is driven straight into a container in the dock and got loaded onto a ship immediately.... u'll probably see the car re-appear somewhere in the other half of the world a few months later!

LOL - the concept of rear mounted engines probably unfamiliar to them... how many Porsche owners will ring Lube Mobile to fix their cars.... Well, scathing, is yours 350z?

The OBD-II port should be somewhere under dash panel on driver's side under steering wheels - just like any nissan. Impul ECU is probably only a chip swap, so most obd reading might still work, give it a try... If VDC relies on ABS sensor as said, might worth checking if the sensors are functioning ok. not damaged etc. Why not try Nissan dealer that knows or done a 350Z? If the lube mobile guy dunno how to fix it?

Yes those are the most popular size... I have that too it's a very good proportional change where these sizes is 0.85% smaller in circumference (less than 1%) at the front and 0.38% smaller in circumference at the rear. There is only 0.5% disproportional circumference front to rear which means it is quite small that the VDC may not even detect the changes. If you haven't got to the bottom of it, this size you have is 1.9% reduction in circumference at the front and 4.4% reduction at the rear. There is around 2.5% disproportional circumference front to rear which may be 'huge' enough to make the VDC computer thinks either front or rear tyres are slipping all the time... it may upset the VDC. How big is that tolerance we do not know. I think the tyre shop who gave you that combination must have assumed your coupe comes with non-staggered OEM tyre size front to rear. Reason is because the front and rear circumference are just differ by 2mm. Where in fact they should have given you a bigger profile tyre at the rear - you'll find 265/35 19 will work with your 235/35 19, alternatively use the sizes what pw350gt suggested above. You can't use 275/35 19 at the back because that will be disproportionally too large compared to your front, so you must change the front to 245/35 19 as well.

How long have you owned your V35 for? almost 2 years Where did you buy it from? (import, private, dealer): import thru prestige motorsport What type of V35? (Coupe/Sedan,Manual/Auto): auto How much did you pay for it? under $30k, not including bits and pieces around bose/nav that i added on and rims How many problems/faults have you had with it (please give detail): NONE at all How much has it costed repairing these problems?: $0 How much do you get out of a full tank of petrol?: around 550km - daily traffic jam morning/afternoon commuting traffic And lastly, 0-100, how fast do you reckon? : maybe around 7seconds? Definitely slower than my old 230rwkw R33 which did sub 5sec. I dont' care how slow it is, I dont buy V35 to drag falcodores, this is a car to sit back and relax in the comfort of leather interior (main reasons - see comment about fuel 550km above)

well if the factory immobilser is totally removed and replaced with aftermarket one, it is possible. but still the ECU needs that 4 digit number whenever you need to reprogram it, eg. if you buy an Impul ECU from japan and swapping it... or if you buy another ECU from Nissan because your current ECU for example, short circuited due to water damage. so pray that you won't have to replace ECU ever.

spraying on top of existing paint mostly won't work... they need to be sanded down to metal, re-prep with undercoat then new paint on... that is the proper way to do it... lots of work, they're probably do a lazy work... which shop did you take it to? r u in melb?

most car theft happens in public car parks (shopping centres, train stations) or overnight between 1 and 4, so we can only hope there is enough time between finding out the car is gone and before the car is long gone/out of signal reach... but still a good idea... the question to ask is, if the car goes under a garage/building and lost gps signal, does the unit saved LAST KNOWN gps coordinate before it lost signal. or just reporting signal not received and sends no coordinate back when queried with sms?

I'll give you a hint.. it won't work... you will found out why after you do your calc...

by law the circumference must not increase / decrease by 3%. however it's not the tolerance, it's the proportion... you can put a large truck rims and tyres as long as if you incraese the front size by 50%, the rear needs to increase by 50%. i'll give you a formula.... 235/35 19 235 is tyre width in mm (235mm) 35 is % of width indicating sidewall profile or height (235 x 35% = 82.25mm) 19 is rim diameter in inch (19 x 25.4mm = 482.6mm) total tyre diameter: = (sidewall x 2) + rim diameter = (82.25 x 2) + 482.6 = 647.1mm circumference = phi x diameter = 3.14*** x 647.1mm = 2031.89mm you do the same for stock 225/45 18 for the front tyre you will get stock tyre diameter is 2071.45mm legal requirement within 3% of 2071.45mm = between 2009.31mm to 2133.6mm so your 235/35 19 is not too small by law. to ensure VDC don't play up, you check how much % less/more is the aftermarket tyre compared to stock: (new tyre circ - stock tyre circ) / stock tyre circ *100 = (2031.89-2071.45)/2071.45*100 = -1.9% you need to do the calc with rear tyre to see if your 275/30 19 at the back is as close as possible to -1.9% to rear oem 245/45 18... I'm done enough calculating, so you do it yourself now.

do you mean you leave your original keys at home and bring a cut/copied key around? or do you mean you press the button on your aftermarket alarm to lock/unlock and don't use original keys but you still carry them around? if it's the first one then yeah that might work, if you remove all factory immobilisers and replace it with mongoose. if it's the second one, then it's probably the car still detects the original key nearby because it's a transponder type thing in the original key that needs to be within certain range of the car...?

you can, but you need to get your calculator out and calculate with a scientific mind, to make sure that your new tyre & rim combination does not change the front to back proportion of the stock rims & tyres... similar cases to GTR owner who found when they run different size tyre front to back their AWD Atessa start playing up weirdly, thinking the car is loosing traction. they need to run all 4 tyres same size, or work out the proper proportion of width vs profile of the tyres to be all the same. you know what I'm talking about, right? It's complicated but once you understand what tyre width and profile they're not hard to calculate.

he he, not that simple. V35 keys have inbuilt immobiliser. simply any key off a Bunnings shelf can't be used to start your car even if it's cut properly. you need to have new keys cut, then brought into Nissan dealer for 'programming'. so it has to be a key that can be programmed. you need the 4-digit immobiliser key that comes on a little metal tag usually attached to the valet key. if you don't have this 4 digit immobiliser, then tough luck. I gotta hunt mine from Japan too. probably one day if I am on a trip to Japan, I might have to visit a local japanese Nissan dealer and try my luck trying to obtain it... I don't have the valet key with the metal tag. there is a whole long thread about immobiliser on v35 on this forum

same tyre size with mine... if u got impul ecu then you'll probably on your own. but might give it a try, some readings may still be available

VDC can have a false reading whenever it detects front and rear wheels are not rotating at the same speed, meaning there's a slip somewhere... common issue is when you swap aftermarket rims and tyres, and the new tyres have the wrong size compared to OEM... e.g. too big or too small. if your rims and tyres are stock, then must be something else that's causing the issue.

yeah I know what VDC is... I got mine kicked off a few times in the wet.... it does made grounching noise like rattling... the way it turn on brake on and off rapidly to limit the power going to certain wheel... maybe it was vdc issue u're experiencing? synchromesh is in the gearbox, the mechanism that allows you to shift gear smoothly, otherwise u'll be grinding the gear teeth all the time

do u mean VDC? or LSD as in mechanical LSD they put for racing cars? crunching noise sounds like synchro problems, but turning off VDC making the issue go away is very weird... it can't be that the synchro is wired to the VDC?

it's a manual... maybe get it to Nissan dealer and get it scanned with consult diagnostic software...?

told ya, even if V35 are slower than 350Z, the autos in these cars ain't that slow. they've got good balance almost 50:50 weight distribution, I think it's 52:48 front to rear for the coupe. easiest I think for dvd player is having a 3rd party changer in the boot and route the av input into the oem tv's aux input. that is if you don't want any local tv. with a local tv tuner, normally it goes into the tv tuners' extra aux input then goes into the factory's aux... it can be done.

draw of luck. some lucky ones get a car with all 3 keys from japan, some rather unlucky may only end up with 2, some very unlucky, only 1... i got 2, both are the FOB key remotes... some ppl only got 1 FOB key, one valet key.

never mind... the guy who test drove autos are different person, not you danny.... get lost on who's replying what.