rs73

cos you've been test driving autos... hence my assumptions.

so u decided not to buy an auto anymore? that's a manual... cheap cos higher 88,000km go to ebay and search for G35 spoiler and get one from usa - lots of options lying around. hope you are brave enough to drill a hole in your boot lid... tv/nav not converted yet, so look at spending 3k on top to get it full blown to aust tv/nav capability

no they're not, Murano CVT is designed for AWD, while the one they had on some high end Maxima is designed for FWD... so that makes it difficult as the only RWD they sell in Aust is 350Z and no 350Z came with CVT... I read somewhere the fluid is different too,but i could be wrong.

Murano may have CVT but they're different to what they put in v35 350gt-8

Spotted a white V35 coupe this evening at the Franklin St/Vic Market Round about.... at around 5:50pm White with rear spoiler.... anyone here? did you spot my silver coupe coming up franklin st?

go drive an auto R33, and you'll find the V35 auto is actually 'responsive' compared to what they've built 10 yrs ago... either that, or the car you are looking hasn't had its auto trans fluid flushed and replaced. I got mine done at 50,000km by Nissan dealership, no issues since. Make sure whichever workshop you go to, they put in the Nissan J-Matic transmission fluid for the 5sp AT-X... I assume you're getting a coupe, so there's no need for special order from Japan for one of those 8sp CVT transmission fluid that would cost around $1100+. The 5sp AT-X J-Matic is the same one they use for 350z and Maxima, basically any Nissan auto trans. so you'll be looked after.

auto will always be laggy... you should get a 6sp if that worries you. the purpose of buying an auto is so you can commute in traffic jam in comfort. that is the main reason why I bought mine auto. or you can buy a grounding kit which also grounds the transmission point. i have those but haven't got the time to install it on the car. they said it will make the engine and gearshift feels more responsive... will need to find time for install then i can tell you if it's a gimmick or the real deal.

oh, imho if you got 2 cars in same condition, go the one with leather and less km (the 2003 model)

what the heck is JDM smell... my car is not smelly... I dunno what the previous owner did to those 2 you test drove... the cars with oem nav has a DVD rom drive that only read japanese navigation rom disc, it won't work with dvd. fullstop. definitely no go, and beside the thing is the brain controlling the whole a/v network in your car so you cant remove it. the only way around it is to install a proprietary dvd player in the car. either get the audio swap out for a double din unit that is able to play dvd, which requires a new facia if it came with bose, if it's std double din, then you just need to swap it over. or there are a few dvd changer you can mount in the boot that can have its av routed to the screen. but either way, you can't really watched dvd while driving, huge fine, and you could easily get into accident... when stationary, it's also not very convenient at times unless you wanna keep the engine running, if not, you might run out of battery after watching 2 hrs of movie on ACC power.

what prompt you to respray it?? is the oem one badly scratched?

hm... u want OEM ? or aftermarket... u can get cheap fibreglass aftermarket from a few hundreds. if you want OEM... it's probably like $2k excl shipping out of japan... plus install/painting depending if you get them painted or not... I won't bother getting a spoiler... if the car you're buying don't have one. they look sportier, but those that don't have also looks cleaner, so both have their wins.

they are reliable, make sure you service them every 10000km or 6 mth as per schedule whichever comes first. normal Nissan dealers can do it for you as they're not much different from local 350Z mechanically. if dealer service is too expensive, you can always take it to any shop that can service any nissan car. self import may land you cheapest price but if buying something unseen and hanging by a thread while your car is making its way through wharf and docks before being put on board a ship battered by high wind seas and wave for around 2-3 months, it's probably not for you. you do get dealer 2nd hand warranty but you pay of course the higher price. going private will be cheaper than dealer, if not, the car would have quite some upgrades that dealers usually won't be bothered doing for you, for example TV screen mods... a lot of us have gotten the 'chris rogers' treatment to get our tv and nav working with an australian version hardware integrated to factory screen, which works nicely... here's a video link that I took of my car, i'm happy with this current setup. http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=pGyiOfF2z8s maybe wait till a private seller car comes up which has been converted like that or at least similar to that?

ha ha, the tap is running dry soon.... I guess only dbw left to sort out the only final probs... other than that i'm happy with everything on it...

Oh, is that including cruise? I gotta start keeping tab how much I spent cummulatively now - LOL

just me talking...

feel free to use it... the talk through wasn't too exciting though... my first attempt at uploading something on Youtube.... hope my future videos will be better directed next time lol

an example of Chris' work on my car... this is not a setup for the faint hearted IMHO... trying to make the Nav to work on top of JDM trip computer, TV tuner, and the reverse camera! had a few hair pulling moments to get it right but Chris finally cracked it! good job Chris... http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=pGyiOfF2z8s

Thank's to Chris, after the recent change the navigation is now a lot more useable on the road, and easier to use, no more requiring me to fiddle around with 2 remotes just to get to the nav, now it can be done just with the nav remote... http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=pGyiOfF2z8s

some Xenon fitted R34 (dealer option) are legal without washer system, because they have an auto-leveling system. I've seen one in compliance shop and it's complied alright. auto leveling is another alternative requirement when headlight washing system is not available... but again even if your car has been fitted with auto levelling and/or washing system, if the reflector in the headlight was designed for halogen and it's fitted with HID bulb, it won't be legal, because the beam pattern will just go wrong.

true, otherwise I'd spotted a red track V35 (no leather) - hardly seen any red around... and another silver NSW car (Nagoya's car) there... Nelson, what he did on my car (the big part is changing the way Nav is displayed on screen) is probably shouldn't be attempted by amateurs... I'll show you next time we have a meet... hm, or maybe I can post a Youtube video... but I'll do it on another thread not this one.

I've been waiting for your post, Nelson ha ha ha when you mean your 4300K factory is for sale do u mean just the bulbs or the whole ballast thing? Are you going with aftermarket ballast on the hi beam H4 or is that just a normal halogen with higher colour temp? I found those blue tinted halogen really sucks... they are not that bright to start with (HID is a lot brighter than halogen) and they added a blue tint to get to the colour temp which limit the light even further....

6000k is bordering between starting to emit visible blue tint... depending on the shape of the reflectors on his car if it is designed to take HID as standard it may not emit as much blue-ish tint, however if compared side by side with 4300K the 4300K would provide more light output. There were discussions about BMW cars having a slight tint of blue but it actually is where the light cutoff are, when you're driving from opposite the car then you passed its cutoff point then you'll see slight blue tint, all HID reflector does that, even though they had 4300K standard bulbs. it will just be more prominent on the higher colour temp level... I've driven on 6000K bulb before and to my eye behind the wheels, it is slightly blue-ish, very faint... once u go beyond it it gets worse... what car does he have? R33? either the shape of his reflector, or is the kit really as advertised? e.g. there's no telling if the kit is actually 5000K but was advertised as 6000K by the manufacturer for some 'marketing' reason?

If it's done properly and not blinding oncoming drivers there are no reasons why it would give you troubles... The best is to reuse the OEM ones, as some aftermarket kit can easily throw the adjustment off the line, and most important your headlights should be a RHD JDM spec, don't put LHD USDM G35 headlights as they'll stuff up your beam dispersion the wrong way. Keeping your headlights clean all the times also helps, or if you're very worried, i'm sure adding a couple of jetwashers on your front bumper directly across from headlight is easy to do. If your compliance workshop threw yours one out (the ballast, ignitors, etc) then your best bet is to search through yahoo auctions or buy it off from someone here...

actually the best is 4100K from the chart. but due to availability of products on the market, i choose 4300K. if for some reason you felt 4300K still has a bit of tint yellow based on personal taste, try finding 5000K but I haven't found much HID bulbs out there outside the normally available 4300K 6000K and so on...

Ok, some of you are going to kill me for this post (hear me, Nelson?) To those ricers that fits HID 6000K or above on your cars... u suck... Stick with OEM 4300K, they're white, they're not yellowish. Choosing an HID bulb that have less blue tint makes it easier on your eyes for long drive. I admit I was one of those showoff ricers who fitted a bluish tint bulb on my 93 Galant when I was in Uni, and yeah, while it's for showoff, a quick drive on the twisties revealed that I felt the bulbs did not produce as much light as I would expect or was advertised by the manufacturers. Yes, I was a victim of fashion, and lucky I didn't pay the price by crashing into an obstacle or kangaroos on a dark, deserted, mountain road. Things why you should never put on blu-ish headlight bulbs on: 1. Human eyes treat blue as glare and would cause pupil to be less dilated, causing reduce night visibility. 2. The higher the colour temp, the less lumen (light output) the bulb produce as well. Oh yes, some of you may think the higher the colour the temp, the more light, is it??? WRONG... The higher the colour temp above 4300K, the LESS the light output will be. Why would do you reckon European car manufacturers, after all those R&D, chosen 4300K as the best HID bulbs to be fitted on cars? Do your research... and convert before someone gets hurt from using the wrong HID bulb on the car... Here's one website to explain why the higher the colour temp it does not make it better. http://www.autolamps-online.com/hidonline/...scolourtemp.htm Below is also a comparison where the left side of the photo is using 4300K HID bulb & right side using 6000K. as you can see 4300K emits more lights than 6000K. The more I do search on various international forums, the more I am convinced that going 6000K or above is not the best decision to make, except for just some wanking showoff factor... Now... let the flaming begins... especially from 6000K lovers...