rs73

Well after they swapped pump, it turns out that the actuator also buggered. The repair bill has cost him like about $4k. It seems that due to pump issue, the actuator had not been getting enough oil pressure and began trying to do funny stuffs to the gearchanges, and ended up getting damaged as well. The whole thing is kinda linked one to another. So he's waiting on a new actuator ($3.5k part only) then once the whole thing is on, gotta get the computer re-programmed again before the thing is back on the road... He should have stick with his WRX :-o at least the japanese car is cheaper to fix.

255/30/20 and 285/30/20 sounds about right. I use 245/35/19 & 275/35/19 on the 19s.... I reckon 245 is on the minimum side for 9.5" wide rims. it may still be legal depending on how your sidewall reacts, but for extra rim protection, try at least 255 or 265. I had my front 245 on 8.5" wide and there's hardly any sidewall protection, I would imagine on a 9.5" 245 will look a bit stretched (unless you want a JDM style VIP look)

Check out http://www.scamwatch.gov.au/ http://www.scamwatch.gov.au/content/index....onShoppingScams http://www.scamwatch.gov.au/content/index....l/itemId/719767 The fact that the agent is in UK, and wanting to buy a car from AUSTRALIA, and having it sent to SOUTH AFRICA just light up a big DANGER SIREN about the whole thing... Please for your own sake, do not proceed with the buyer...

I smell the biggest SCAM SCAM SCAM like a skunk scent in a Legionnaire disease-infected air conditioning system... If you contact the seller, (and God bless forbids you), they're likely to provide you with a bounced check, while your car is already on its way... or they try to 'blind' you by giving you a cheque twice the car worth and ask you to give them the 'change' to another account, which basically you end up with no car and no money (the cheque will bounce in a few days) or they get this some sort of cunning way to do money laundry and you'll get a visit from the Federal Police in a few days and arrested for being an unassuming aid to money laundering crime...

Mummy Spider - it carries hundreds of its babies, all poisonous ones, on her back for about 40 days... Here's an article with photos that will guarantee tingle your spine... http://www.thesun.co.uk/sol/homepage/news/article1444007.ece

RDA (not me, sorry - I don't supply - only organising group buys) should all now use the new compound. The old compound has gone obsolete back in 2003-2004... I use redstuff as well - still squeals a bit on light application but not when hard braking... give it a bit more time. Redstuff are performance pads, they WILL squeal when new... but they shouldn't be dusty, mine's not.... Do you still keep your box? take a pic of it - but I'm sure they will be the new ones with 3000 series ceramic compound. the old one is metal compound, not ceramic.

not sure using those insect spray on door jamb of the car... do they react with the paintwork?

A insecticide like "Baygon" External is useful, you'll need to spray all along your external windows and door jam, all around, not just the bottom. and create a barrier. Good for every 3-6 months. As summer is approaching, all these insects, they get active again, looking for food, that's why they're all coming out. I would squeeze any little spiders I found but those big ones are so disgusting I would use an insect spray and won't bother to risk getting it all splatered over, and wait till they're through their agonising death and vacuum it or sweep it away with a broom.spraying your tyres with external barrier insect spray might be a good idea. after all they will need to climb through something, tyres...

maybe because those petrol nutheads are too fanatical to admit anything other than mechanical lsd as lsd. viscous lsd is the one usually standard. even with open diff if both side traction are identical, both wheels will spin. only exception is if one wheel on ice or wet road and other side on dry tarmac.

It only takes an EPA officer, ambulance, MBF/CFA firefighter, or police officer to dob you in for noise, then you'll get a demand in the mail for EPA noise test. A general member of public will need to report you multiple times before EPA will look into it. E.g. you always revved past a neighbours house that's just got fed up with your exhaust noise everyday. Bad luck. If yours don't go over 90db limit, then a test with certificate will cost around $30 from an approved exhaust tester (the list is on EPA website). Just fax it all back to EPA or mail it back, then it'll all be fine. If you're over 90db, well then you gotta need it fixed first.

Drew, he's already got a HKS S/C kit... forced induction is served on the plate already.

I haven't seen any spec that detailed difference in weight between manual V35 and auto V35. However, based on experiences from other cars, the auto V35 should be heavier (not lighter) and should be slower than a manual one. I believe it's either 1590kg or 1690kg. For the average driver, auto could be faster down the quarter mile as it's only a few milliseconds of each gear shift, compared to the usual foot clutch in, hand change gear, foot clutch out action that will take longer to do. unless of course you're a seasoned drag pro with superman like reflexes, or you have a sequential dog gearbox. gearbox are the same between V35 and 350Z I believe, that goes for both auto / tiptronic and manual (with the exception of the 350GT-8 sedan's CVT 8 speed auto that are not found in any aust-delivered Nissan - different to Murano's CVT). So more reasons not to fear buying/importing a V35 in my opinion, as suspension, engine, brakes, springs, air filter, air box, oil filter, gearbox, are interchangeable. Not to mention some electricals are quite identical, power window motors, exhaust (with extended 10cm pipe), are surprisingly can be swap between the 2 cars. They're basically built on the same chassis layout, it's just the 350Z has a bit shorter wheelbase.

If you don't mind imports, then it'll be better to get the V35 Skyline as they're exactly the same engine and drivetrain, a tad slower, but the interior build quality is a lot better (some plastic dash pocket cover on 350Z are very plasticky - as demonstrated in Top Gear's review), which I hardly found any tacky clicking plastic cover on my V35 (all are nicely padded for a soft click on closing/opening). And again, you get 2 extra seat for 2 extra mates at the back... But mod wise, if you're willing to spend big, there are tuners out there selling twin turbo kit or a s/c kit. But be prepare to fork out enough money to spend on a brand new korean small car on top of your purchase.

Take note that regardless 350Z sharing the same engine & gearbox with V35 Skyline, the 350Z are always quicker from the factory, as they're a tad lighter.

that is probably the WORST idea ever. Any stolen incident would have to be reported. The police will take your car away for dusting of fingerprints, and if they sense a false report has been made, you will be in a very deep, deep sh1t... just pay the fine and be done with it.

Finally the McGard bolts arrived, after almost 2 weeks since I ordered them... The included lock nuts didn't have a rotating conical seat, only the spline drive. Construction looks solid, and quite pack a hefty reassuring weight on each lug nuts (compared to the lightweight feeling of some JDM aluminium wheel nuts that tend to shatter away after prolonged use...) indeed not really a fan of those lightweight nuts. Photos attached... came with 4 metal valve stems which I don't actually need...

Thank's for the input guys... Just an update - his car is still undergoing repairs in an Tulla area workshop. After through checking it really is the pump - so just waiting on parts and hopefully his car will be fixed next week.

Yeah when I was in the passenger seat and looking at it, I wasn't very impressed. Also the way to switch the selespeed to a full auto mode is not very good, with a button in the middle that seems to stuck, took him half a minute just to switch it to full auto mode... Well the good news is he took his car to one in Essendon as it's the closest to home, and they' ran a diagnostic tool on the car, looks like it wasn't the actuator or the pump as both had given out any error codes. Sounds like it's the spline shaft or something... should know the verdict by tomorrow...

Still here mate, still in the Skyline world... with a V35 non-turbo now... retiring from the glory of the boosted world... But just getting a bit busy with my new job, with a lot more variations to do...

West. He's got the numbers from some of the suggested places above, and might try to ring around tomorrow. Car may need a tow though, as I just sat in the passenger seat and he drove around the block, the car would only go into 1st, occassionally will go to 2nd, but ocassionally won't shift up and back to Neutral. No Reverse gear at all. Whirring noise sound like dying gearbox oil pump or something. Not good to try to drive it himself anywhere out of our quiet block.

The problem was either a) Actuator $2.5k to fix.... or b) Auto trans oil pump about $500-600 to fix, or c) electrical wiring issue...

Yeah, no wonder it's cheap... $10k, not a little money, but at a few grands cheaper than what others advertising, or willing to part with, there must be a 'catch'... and I don't think he'd appreciate ylwgtr2's suggestion... as bad as the car goes, he's a student and $10k is a lot for him to loose $9900 in exchange for a $100 wrecker's drive-in price, so he'd be better off spending a few more grands fixing the damn thing

This is Chasers on Dynon Rd, that you mean? I had my R33 tuned there - PFC, Z32 AFM, HKS2535GT on HKS EZ-II boost controller. Made 230rwkw - only came short due to needing splitfire coil packs and recommended S15 JDM injectors.. which I didn't managed to perform as I decided to sell the car. If the tuner/dyno guy, Paul, is still there, worth to get him spend some time on your car. He's a good tuner with extensive Motec experience. So if you decided to go to Motec, you definitely can bring your car there for a tuneup! Price is alright, I reckon. About $70/hr 2-3 yrs ago, not sure now.

Thank's for all the input, I've fwd them to my bro in law so let him sort it out himself... I know Alfa is not really the most reliable car out there but what can he do, the egg has been broken, might as well beat it and cook it into an omelet.

Need a favour... My brother in law (yes, I know, what was he thinking?) bought an 2001 Alfa Romeo 147 Selespeed with 80,000km on the clock, privately from Sydney without having done all the usual used car buying 'homeworks' properly. Instead of putting it on a car transport, he and a friend flew to Sydney and drove the car down to Melbourne themselves. Made it around 500km+ just before Albury when he rang me up telling they're stranded. Apparently the car's transmission had died, possibly from overheating or prolonged highway use. It practically just won't shift to any gear and kept dropping out to Neutral. Thank's to RACV he and the car got home safely, although got stung by very expensive tow bill. That should teach him a lesson to do his homework next time. Now he needs to find an Alfa Romeo specialist that could fix the issue he had with the gearbox as he need to have it RWC and rego transferred within 14 days. Does anyone know any good mechanic in Melbourne area that know Alfa Romeos common problems particularly auto gearbox? Thank's....